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Clarification sought on Magneto6v to 12v

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57WD45FarmUse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 57WD45FarmUse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Clarification sought on Magneto6v to 12v
    Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 12:02pm
Hi there fellas.   I am converting my 48 WD to 12vs. It currently is 6volt Pground with magneto
I have a 1wire alternator ready to go and need to find a distributor yet. Have plenty of auto wire and related hardware so please I don’t need suggestions to purchase a premade wiring harness from some website...

Did I see somewhere that it’s possible to convert over 12v with the Magneto ?Some clarification on that would be wonderful. Thanks
1950 WD, Adjustable WF, 12v, PS, New style OK Tractor 3point hitch. Kelly front loader. Farm Use Only
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 12:16pm
It's easy to convert to 12 volts if you intend to keep the magneto. Just install your one-wire alternator and use the existing BAT wire. Of course you'd need to either install a larger ammeter or a voltmeter. You'd have the battery configured for negative ground, but the magneto doesn't care which polarity you have. Don't use the existing 6 volt lamps. They'll burn out almost as soon as you turn them on.

You can install a 3-wire alternator with a magneto too. It's easier than doing it with battery ignition. You don't need a blocking diode or such other device on the exciter wire when you have a magneto. You can't use the same switch for both the magneto and the exciter wire, though.



Edited by DougS - 25 Jun 2019 at 12:19pm
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frnkeore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frnkeore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 12:28pm
The Mag, is completely independent of all other electrics on the engine. It creates it's own electric with the magnets, inside.

You kill the engine by grounding out the mag so, it's switching will need to remain independent form all other switching.


Edited by frnkeore - 25 Jun 2019 at 12:29pm
Frank
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57WD45FarmUse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 57WD45FarmUse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 1:03pm
Hey thanks a lot for the info. Iwill keep the mag for now and see what I think for goin distributor in the future    That’ should be an easy job tonight after work !!

I’ll make sure the kill push button is independent. Thanks!!
1950 WD, Adjustable WF, 12v, PS, New style OK Tractor 3point hitch. Kelly front loader. Farm Use Only
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 2:11pm
If you use a key switch that's designed to use with a Magneto, you don't need two separate switches. In my 12V conversion kits, tractors that are equipped still with a Magneto, I use a Mag key switch. A push/pull or toggle switch will work also, but, there's not a lot of room in those triangulated WD instrument panels. 

If you want to move to a Distributor ignition I offer a Mag to Distributor conversion if interested. I offer it with points or with electronic ignition. If you already have an Alternator and its a one wire, you're much better off with making it a three wire. Most one wire Alts can be changed to three wire. A lot easier on the engine when trying to excite the regulator. You need 1200-1400 rpms in order to excite most one wire Alts. With a three wire, you turn on the VR with the key switch, and as soon as you get to around 450 rpms or so (where the engine likes it better) it starts to charge. There is a lot of 12V conversion information on our website if you're interested in visiting it and doing a little reading.  HTH
Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com  
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Stan R View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 2:54pm
I bought a 12V alternator conversion kit from Steve a few months ago: 3 wire alternator, key switch, voltmeter and wiring harness and 12 volt negative ground electronic ignition. System works great- low to high idle the voltmeter stays around 14.3 volts. Last year, after doing some haying, the tractor sat for maybe 2 hours and I had to jump start it. I suspect the generator or voltage regulator was faulty, and in lieu of trying to figure it out, I ripped it all out and converted it. Been using it this June and works like a new tractor ('64 D-17, good for another 50 years!). No regrets.

Edited by Stan R - 25 Jun 2019 at 2:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 3:22pm
I put a 3 wire alternator on my WD with the FMJ magneto. I just have two toggle switches in the holes on the front of the ammeter panel, one is the magneto ground circuit and the other is the circuit to excite the three wire alternator and send power to my light switch. I flipped the magneto switch over so it grounds out when flipped down also so I just flip both switches up to start and flip them both down when it gets shut off. You just have to treat the charging and light circuit separate from the magneto circuit unlike with a distributor. I have the wiring diagram I drew out to wire mine as I do the same and hand wire all mine rather than getting the pre-made harnesses.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 6:24pm
I used a lawn mower key switch they ground the mag to shut it off. Their really avaliable at a lawn mower shop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by cpg cpg wrote:

I put a 3 wire alternator on my WD with the FMJ magneto. I just have two toggle switches in the holes on the front of the ammeter panel, one is the magneto ground circuit and the other is the circuit to excite the three wire alternator and send power to my light switch. I flipped the magneto switch over so it grounds out when flipped down also so I just flip both switches up to start and flip them both down when it gets shut off. You just have to treat the charging and light circuit separate from the magneto circuit unlike with a distributor. I have the wiring diagram I drew out to wire mine as I do the same and hand wire all mine rather than getting the pre-made harnesses.

You can use a double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) toggle switch if you care to use a toggle switch. You'd want to know the switch is waterproofed. In this case you'd wire the mag to one pole of the switch and the alternator to the other pole. Wire one pole as normally open and the other as normally closed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 9:14pm
I am highjacking this thread momentarily. We can move this over to my thread if needed.
The alternator I have is a one wire but has the contacts covered by a rubber plug that look the same as the 3 wire I have used in the past.  So maybe I should buy the little jumper wire and the exciter wire and wire it up as a three wire with the diode? I dont like electrical!!!:) Steve in NJ, I will be getting to this work soon on my project so maybe we can move this over to my WD 45 thread! I dont want to have to rev this up high to get it to start charging!
Regards,
 Chris 
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 9:57pm
Just purchase a 3-wire regulator and replace the regulator on your 1-wire alternator. I think that's the only difference. No, wiring to the unused pins on the 1-wire won't do the trick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 7:02am
Doug,
Thanks! Was afraid of that. Not sure I would have a clue as to do that change. Never had a alternator apart.
Back to regularly scheduled programming.
Regards,
Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leon B MO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 7:47am
My CA has a magneto and a battery disconnect switch, I simply hooked the mag kill wire to the key switch and ran the other wire to ground so turning the key on kills the tractor. 
Leon B MO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 9:06am
i use a three wire alternator on my wd with a mag it has a  mag i use a briggs and stratton pn. 692318 key switch that has a ground terminal for grounding the mag my starter also has had a soliond on it for about fifty years so it starts with the key
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2019 at 7:03am
Most one wire Alternators (especially the Delco "SI" series) can be changed to a three wire unit by just purchasing the correct plug for the Alternator. As I mentioned, its much easier on the engine. Turn the key on, send 12V's to the Alt turning the VR on, fire the engine, around 400-450 rpm it'll be charging. Normal charging range on any 12V negative ground system with a Voltmeter is 13.9-14.5. Doesn't matter what the system is on. 14.2 is ideal.  Try to stay away from toggle switches unless you know their amp rating. Most general toggle switches are only 10-15 amps. An Alternator with a problem, or a problem on board the Tractor (such as a short) can ramp the Alternator up taking any low amp toggle right out in nanoseconds. Its always a good practice to use a higher amp push/pull switch or a key switch for safety and reliability. Cole Hersee for example, makes a nice 75 amp push/pull switch which we carry in stock that works nice in an Alternator application...  HTH
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2019 at 10:15am
He'd only be switching the exciter, Steve. No need for a 75 AMP switch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 6:53am
Just using the C/H switch as an example of what's out there ...
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 57WD45FarmUse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 2:09pm
Thanks to everyone for sharin on this!!! For the time bein since I already had a one wire alternator and bracket on hand I went that route because the gen wasn’t charging and I needed to get caught up on stuff
Most likely in the future I’ll do the distributor with elec ignition or maybe get the old generator rebuilt for 12volts and keep It lookin super stock!
1950 WD, Adjustable WF, 12v, PS, New style OK Tractor 3point hitch. Kelly front loader. Farm Use Only
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