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Cheap Combine Storage

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wjohn View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 8:17pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

by the time you purchase two sea cans and have them positioned and level... I think you could  drill a couple dozen holes and plant laminated posts... Either way, you got to buy a ROOF.

Yep... I think I have it down to post frame or carport style, as far as cost goes. Looking at some of the carport style ones - they get pricey quickly when you only look at the ones with good wind ratings, especially as you go wider with them. They seem to be cheaper if they are narrow and long like for RVs, which makes sense since the structure can be pretty minimal across the top. Even at that, a lot of them require being set on concrete and anchored down to it to get that advertised wind resistance. Seems like I am looking at carports that wind up being about 2/3 the cost of a slant roof post frame building, so it's hard to not lean towards the post frame that should last the rest of my life.

We have had 30-40 MPH sustained winds all day and the highest recorded gust was 69 MPH. No storms. I don't want to go too cheap on a structure for sure - there are steel 55 gallon drums blowing/rolling around on my neighbor's property right now!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 9:26am
Missed out 15 years ago when a lumber yard went out of business and they tore it down. Lots of 3 walled sheds with wide bay openings. Not tall enough for a combine but would have been great for headers, balers, tractors etc. siding looked pretty rough but even to just get the roof trusses would have been nice.

Chinks own the factory across the road from our shop. They have expanded great guns. They built a 80 x 120x 20(?) pole style addition only to tear it down less than 2 years later! Not just taken apart, destroyed. Faster that way of course.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 9:16am
If your looking for COST $$... i would start with something like this.. You can alway add side walls or a lean too onto the sides at a later date... You just need a good ANCHOR to the ground.... rods or concrete weights..  Steel has to be better long term than the canvas tent type covers ?


Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 9:01am
I'm going to look into some sort of structure like mentioned here at some point. Was thinking a camper style carport but the sea cans might work? Mostly just for parts storage. I have an old 'cargill' unit Dad raised hogs on so there is concrete available. 

Better organization is always a goal but man, it's hard to achieve!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 6:20am
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

40' used abused seacan might be $3000, so $6K for cans, another 6K for roof ?(don't know what trusses go for south of the 49th....)
sounds like cheap protection AND get TWO 8x8x40 lockable storage units to boot.

$6k for a roof?

Well I don’t know what I did wrong then.

I wanted 14 feet of clearance so I was looking at the pony wall and roof. If you want it to code and permitted and all that BS, you have to buy an engineered plan. I don’t quite remember what width I asked for, probably 30 feet or so, and 40 feet long for the containers. So engineering, all the materials, and freight was over $50k, plus the containers and site prep and getting the containers level and square and all that jazz. I surely don’t have the means to do that. I vigorously rejected that quote, told him I had no idea what I was getting into and that was out of my league. About 3 weeks later he contacted me and said there was a cancellation, plus another building being shipped about 25 miles from me to save on freight and offered it for about $30k. So with all other expenses, figure $40-$65k!

Yeah I suppose you could skirt all that and cobble together something cheaper, then have it blow down and damage the equipment. Then what did you save?

And that was a building with no end walls, just the two sides and a roof. And assuming I did all my own work which I would probably not be able to do the setting of trusses.

Edited by Tbone95 - 14 Mar 2025 at 6:23am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 6:06am
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

by the time you purchase two sea cans and have them positioned and level... I think you could  drill a couple dozen holes and plant laminated posts... Either way, you got to buy a ROOF.
yep
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 7:44pm
40' used abused seacan might be $3000, so $6K for cans, another 6K for roof ?(don't know what trusses go for south of the 49th....)
sounds like cheap protection AND get TWO 8x8x40 lockable storage units to boot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 5:52pm
by the time you purchase two sea cans and have them positioned and level... I think you could  drill a couple dozen holes and plant laminated posts... Either way, you got to buy a ROOF.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 5:22pm
google 'sea can garage', select 'images'...... !!!!
 Lots of great ways to use them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 2:42pm
Originally posted by tadams(OH) tadams(OH) wrote:

They look tacky the way they are but you could cover them with vinyl siding or even steel siding to make them look better.
and add even more cost?

Anyway, the pictures they sent me all showed the roof sitting on the “inner edge” of the container, in other words the container is not under the roof. I don’t particularly care for that flat top holding snow up against the roof structure and such. On the other hand wouldn’t be a fan of having them under roof either and losing all the space for combines and tractors and equipment.

Guess you could say one of those just isn’t for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tadams(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 1:42pm
They look tacky the way they are but you could cover them with vinyl siding or even steel siding to make them look better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 10:34am
The shipping container style also has kits where you build a pony wall on top and then the roof and then you get plenty of height. Problem is it’s EXPENSIVE, and Jay makes a good point, in the end they look kinda tacky.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 6:56am
The 'problem' with any/all of them is they are not 'cheap' ! Heck NOTHING today is 'cheap'.
Also need to consider that if this IS your forever home, you'll have to LOOK at it forever, so maybe consider the 'upgrade' from cheap to inexpensive to build a better looking, more permanent structure.
it does sound like you NEED a solid, stable building !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 11:15pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

the "car port" type systems made of 2 x 2 steel box with tin screwed to the outside is "normally" the cheap way to get something QUICK.... If you think that will blow away in the wind, how do you plan to anchor your "menards" building ? ..... You can screw anchors into the ground or you can drive 5/8 inch rebar 3 ft long into the ground on the bottom plate of the car port.. I would seriously consider something along that line.. If the wind is AWLAYS out of one direction ( west or north), set the building so you can add tin to that wall in the future, as needed..

I should have clarified that the Menards buildings are all post frame and would require getting holes drilled in the rock. The wind is always out of the south in the summer, out of the north in the winter, and west or east with really bad storms, so it's hard to plan for.

Lots of good ideas here in this thread. I am researching all of them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 7:37pm
Do a Hoop building anchored into top outer edges of sea-land containers. That way the sea-land containers become its anchors & hoop covers them too. Other anchor systems (large cast concrete blocks[2’x2’x4’?], poured concrete foundation/walls, treated lumber& drilled/screw anchors into stone/earth, etc,,,,) you might also choose for a hoop building may cost you as much or more than 2 long(40-50’?) sea-land containers???
AND none of the other anchors offer rodent/thief/weather proof options that the Sea-land containers can. Good place to store tools, air compressor, welder, electric genset, parts, maybe medium size vehicle, or small heated shop/office etc….
AND although the sea-land containers are anchored too, a person could more easily move them if later that becomes a consideration?
Talk to your hoop building supplier to discuss their designs per the sea-land containers so it’s correct design.

If that’s still too expensive, leave the gleaner set outside. Position it on a slight incline so it left side is lower to drain rain/snow from header, grain tank, & clean grain belly auger. Clean out all grain from it & grease it. Open the clean grain & return doors, Remove front raddle access panel to clean that area. Remove cab air filter so mice don’t destroy it. Remove starting batteries & store them in a warm place. Start machine, drive it some, & run its separator/header every 2-3 months. That won’t eliminate outdoor deterioration, but can help belts, chains, bearings, fuel tank, trans/finals stay in operational condition. Do not try to tarp machine.

Edited by AC7060IL - 11 Mar 2025 at 8:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac160 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 7:05am
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Quite a few around here have bought the segmented curved rings or quonset style covers, can be open or closed ended. Plenty tall enough for Combines and only requires a basic footer to sit the rings into.

The hoop buildings are nice for storage and reasonably priced.  I see a lot of them around my area and we have all types of weather.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jvin248 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 9:18pm
.

They make extra tall shipping containers. Gives you another few feet.
You could put crushed stone down to raise them another foot or two plus cement piles to get more height.

.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 9:06pm
Originally posted by JC-WI JC-WI wrote:



   
   <div ="msg">
   
Seen a fellow remove the end wall and haymow floor from his barn to get his combine in.

Seen
another that remove most of the end wall on a Lester Barn and then
removed the concrete inside, then dug a ramp down and 6 feet of dirt out
of the whole building and used it to stack round bales in.
  Don't know what he did to keep water from running in.
removing end wall and hay mow floor….was that my father in law? Course a couple years later the barn about fell down!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 9:04pm
Originally posted by dr p dr p wrote:

You can tip an all crop so the tongue goes all up 45 degrees. You can gain a foot of clearance that way through a door
did that with where I stored my chopper!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dr p Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 7:03pm
You can tip an all crop so the tongue goes all up 45 degrees. You can gain a foot of clearance that way through a door
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 5:00pm
Seen a fellow remove the end wall and haymow floor from his barn to get his combine in.

Seen another that remove most of the end wall on a Lester Barn and then removed the concrete inside, then dug a ramp down and 6 feet of dirt out of the whole building and used it to stack round bales in.
  Don't know what he did to keep water from running in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 6:45am
My combine had to set out one winter after the derachio. Tarped it, Had to do it again, I would just leave it open. The aforementioned problems and the livestock moved in en-mass! Was not a good thing, glad to have plenty of building space now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:04pm
i suppose if you cant dig down or drive stakes into the ground, another option would be a couple dozen bags of concrete..  make a 2 x 2 plywood box a foot deep and set OVER the bottom  plate of the car port .... every 6 or 8 ft... Then mix and pour concrete to fill the box... add as many as you need..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:01pm
the "car port" type systems made of 2 x 2 steel box with tin screwed to the outside is "normally" the cheap way to get something QUICK.... If you think that will blow away in the wind, how do you plan to anchor your "menards" building ? ..... You can screw anchors into the ground or you can drive 5/8 inch rebar 3 ft long into the ground on the bottom plate of the car port.. I would seriously consider something along that line.. If the wind is AWLAYS out of one direction ( west or north), set the building so you can add tin to that wall in the future, as needed..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dr p Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 2:56pm
Have you looked into the coverall style building. I know they don't have great wind resistance but if can you position it to give it shelter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote johnkc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 12:57pm
The old chicken house trusses would be a good option.  I see packages on market place around MO, OK, AR, KS. Just need to do a taller leg as chicken house trusses have around a 6-7 ft leg.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 11:34am
Originally posted by wjohn wjohn wrote:

Originally posted by Tbone95 Tbone95 wrote:

They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn.


That's what most of the ones I've seen around here are like - set your trusses on top, basically. So far it does seem like I'm going to have to spend the money on some sort of pole building. I'm scanning through some of the RV storage carport-type structures to see if any of them have halfway decent wind ratings but so far it is sure looking like there are no cheap and easy options here.


I feel that. I desperately need some more machine storage. I got kicked out of the neighbors shed I used to use. I’ve got a big Quonset so I’m all set for combine, cart and truck, but it is jam packed with smaller stuff too that doesn’t need as much head clearance.

Just need money that’s all!    I was sure disappointed when I got the final price tag on the container shed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 11:20am
Originally posted by Tbone95 Tbone95 wrote:

They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn.

That's what most of the ones I've seen around here are like - set your trusses on top, basically. So far it does seem like I'm going to have to spend the money on some sort of pole building. I'm scanning through some of the RV storage carport-type structures to see if any of them have halfway decent wind ratings but so far it is sure looking like there are no cheap and easy options here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 9:04am
They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 8:55am
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:


if you can tpye...er typr arrrrgh type the right words in....google finds the right stuff...

oh yeah 1/2 my clocks are WRONG too !

That does get you the height, but only rated for 50 MPH wind load! Where in the world would someone trust that... Inside a cave? Wonder how many people have had any luck with those...
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