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Cheap Combine Storage

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wjohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Cheap Combine Storage
    Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 2:49pm
I don't have a building tall enough to fit my combine into, and I don't want to put new chains, bearings, belts, etc. on it and then have it just sit outside and get rained on all year. What's the cheapest structure you guys can think of that I could throw up to at least have a roof over it? It would be nice if I could get my grain truck in there too - so let's say something 25' W x 30' L x 12' H or so at a minimum to fit both.

We do get some pretty good wind out here so I have to keep that in mind, but no snow load to speak of. I have about 2" of soil and then it's limestone, so any serious post holes I'd have to hire out.

Menards has some slant roof/loafing open-sided shed kits that I can tweak to get what I need, so that's about the cheapest/quickest post-frame option I can think of. I'm not sure I trust Versatube or carport-type structures with our wind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 3:23pm
probably not cheapest but... 2 seacans about 12' apart then build a roof over  the gap ?
I've see plastic domes sold for this setup.
Nice thing is TWO drive in 'sheds' for other equipment or storage.

bottom line will be based on how deep your pockets are.....
FWIW....Good 20' seacans go for about $2500 CDN these days...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 6:01pm
the seacan idea would take a little work. they are only 8 feet high, so the roof spanning would need to be extended upwards some, but the plus would be the extra storage space gained with the seacans, and pretty much rodent proof too! 
also, the seacans, the last ones i bought last summer were $2500, each, plus $750 each delivery, so round numbers $6500, plus whatever for the raised roof. plus whatever for the ends and garage doors, if you wanted them.  Not sure that will be cheaper than the corrugated steel building available. just my 2 cents 
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Gary View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 6:53pm

Wouldn't a good quality large Tarp be sufficient?

G
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 8:46pm
Originally posted by LouSWPA LouSWPA wrote:

the seacan idea would take a little work. they are only 8 feet high, so the roof spanning would need to be extended upwards some, but the plus would be the extra storage space gained with the seacans, and pretty much rodent proof too! 
also, the seacans, the last ones i bought last summer were $2500, each, plus $750 each delivery, so round numbers $6500, plus whatever for the raised roof. plus whatever for the ends and garage doors, if you wanted them.  Not sure that will be cheaper than the corrugated steel building available. just my 2 cents 

That's about what I was figuring for cost on shipping containers, and like you pointed out, they're not tall enough, so you either have to build more structure above them or stack 2. I do see more and more of those buildings around here but you are correct - definitely not cheaper than some sort of post frame or other metal sided building. If I only needed 8' clearance it might be a different story because I could just get trusses to drop on top of them and keep going. I can definitely see the storage being handy though.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 8:51pm
Originally posted by Gary Gary wrote:


Wouldn't a good quality large Tarp be sufficient?

G

I am not sure if I would be able to get a tarp tight enough over the whole combine to be able to trust it. We have days (not often, but not unheard of) where the sustained wind speeds are 40+ MPH with gusts of 60-70 MPH - and that's without any storm.

If I were tarping a gravity wagon or grain truck box that would fit nice and tight then I think it would be fine.

I do like that line of thinking though... maybe I can make some cheap ugly scrap sheet metal covers that I bolt on, mostly to keep rain off the chain/belt drives on the sides?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 4:48am
Quite a few around here have bought the segmented curved rings or quonset style covers, can be open or closed ended. Plenty tall enough for Combines and only requires a basic footer to sit the rings into.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:43am

if you can tpye...er typr arrrrgh type the right words in....google finds the right stuff...

oh yeah 1/2 my clocks are WRONG too !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:57am
well this is interesting....
1st post in (on ?) my faceplant page is for a competitors can canopy !!!
never ever seen one before and 'magically' FB posts an ad..
hmmmm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 8:48am
Originally posted by Gary Gary wrote:


Wouldn't a good quality large Tarp be sufficient?

G


No. Trying to tarp a combine and get it so there’s no place for water to pool is miserable. Then keep it in place for months of wind? Not likely. On top of all that anywhere the tarp contacts doesn’t breathe and you get mold, corrosion, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 8:55am
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:


if you can tpye...er typr arrrrgh type the right words in....google finds the right stuff...

oh yeah 1/2 my clocks are WRONG too !

That does get you the height, but only rated for 50 MPH wind load! Where in the world would someone trust that... Inside a cave? Wonder how many people have had any luck with those...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 9:04am
They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 11:20am
Originally posted by Tbone95 Tbone95 wrote:

They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn.

That's what most of the ones I've seen around here are like - set your trusses on top, basically. So far it does seem like I'm going to have to spend the money on some sort of pole building. I'm scanning through some of the RV storage carport-type structures to see if any of them have halfway decent wind ratings but so far it is sure looking like there are no cheap and easy options here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 11:34am
Originally posted by wjohn wjohn wrote:

Originally posted by Tbone95 Tbone95 wrote:

They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn.


That's what most of the ones I've seen around here are like - set your trusses on top, basically. So far it does seem like I'm going to have to spend the money on some sort of pole building. I'm scanning through some of the RV storage carport-type structures to see if any of them have halfway decent wind ratings but so far it is sure looking like there are no cheap and easy options here.


I feel that. I desperately need some more machine storage. I got kicked out of the neighbors shed I used to use. I’ve got a big Quonset so I’m all set for combine, cart and truck, but it is jam packed with smaller stuff too that doesn’t need as much head clearance.

Just need money that’s all!    I was sure disappointed when I got the final price tag on the container shed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote johnkc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 12:57pm
The old chicken house trusses would be a good option.  I see packages on market place around MO, OK, AR, KS. Just need to do a taller leg as chicken house trusses have around a 6-7 ft leg.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dr p Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 2:56pm
Have you looked into the coverall style building. I know they don't have great wind resistance but if can you position it to give it shelter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:01pm
the "car port" type systems made of 2 x 2 steel box with tin screwed to the outside is "normally" the cheap way to get something QUICK.... If you think that will blow away in the wind, how do you plan to anchor your "menards" building ? ..... You can screw anchors into the ground or you can drive 5/8 inch rebar 3 ft long into the ground on the bottom plate of the car port.. I would seriously consider something along that line.. If the wind is AWLAYS out of one direction ( west or north), set the building so you can add tin to that wall in the future, as needed..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:04pm
i suppose if you cant dig down or drive stakes into the ground, another option would be a couple dozen bags of concrete..  make a 2 x 2 plywood box a foot deep and set OVER the bottom  plate of the car port .... every 6 or 8 ft... Then mix and pour concrete to fill the box... add as many as you need..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 6:45am
My combine had to set out one winter after the derachio. Tarped it, Had to do it again, I would just leave it open. The aforementioned problems and the livestock moved in en-mass! Was not a good thing, glad to have plenty of building space now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 hours 28 minutes ago at 5:00pm
Seen a fellow remove the end wall and haymow floor from his barn to get his combine in.

Seen another that remove most of the end wall on a Lester Barn and then removed the concrete inside, then dug a ramp down and 6 feet of dirt out of the whole building and used it to stack round bales in.
  Don't know what he did to keep water from running in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dr p Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 hours 25 minutes ago at 7:03pm
You can tip an all crop so the tongue goes all up 45 degrees. You can gain a foot of clearance that way through a door
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 24 minutes ago at 9:04pm
Originally posted by dr p dr p wrote:

You can tip an all crop so the tongue goes all up 45 degrees. You can gain a foot of clearance that way through a door
did that with where I stored my chopper!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 22 minutes ago at 9:06pm
Originally posted by JC-WI JC-WI wrote:



   
   <div ="msg">
   
Seen a fellow remove the end wall and haymow floor from his barn to get his combine in.

Seen
another that remove most of the end wall on a Lester Barn and then
removed the concrete inside, then dug a ramp down and 6 feet of dirt out
of the whole building and used it to stack round bales in.
  Don't know what he did to keep water from running in.
removing end wall and hay mow floor….was that my father in law? Course a couple years later the barn about fell down!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jvin248 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 10 minutes ago at 9:18pm
.

They make extra tall shipping containers. Gives you another few feet.
You could put crushed stone down to raise them another foot or two plus cement piles to get more height.

.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac160 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 7 hours 23 minutes ago at 7:05am
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Quite a few around here have bought the segmented curved rings or quonset style covers, can be open or closed ended. Plenty tall enough for Combines and only requires a basic footer to sit the rings into.

The hoop buildings are nice for storage and reasonably priced.  I see a lot of them around my area and we have all types of weather.
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