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wjohn 
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Location: KS
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 Topic: Cheap Combine Storage
Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 2:49pm |
I don't have a building tall enough to fit my combine into, and I don't want to put new chains, bearings, belts, etc. on it and then have it just sit outside and get rained on all year. What's the cheapest structure you guys can think of that I could throw up to at least have a roof over it? It would be nice if I could get my grain truck in there too - so let's say something 25' W x 30' L x 12' H or so at a minimum to fit both.
We do get some pretty good wind out here so I have to keep that in mind, but no snow load to speak of. I have about 2" of soil and then it's limestone, so any serious post holes I'd have to hire out.
Menards has some slant roof/loafing open-sided shed kits that I can tweak to get what I need, so that's about the cheapest/quickest post-frame option I can think of. I'm not sure I trust Versatube or carport-type structures with our wind.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 3:23pm |
probably not cheapest but... 2 seacans about 12' apart then build a roof over the gap ? I've see plastic domes sold for this setup. Nice thing is TWO drive in 'sheds' for other equipment or storage.
bottom line will be based on how deep your pockets are..... FWIW....Good 20' seacans go for about $2500 CDN these days...
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 6:01pm |
the seacan idea would take a little work. they are only 8 feet high, so the roof spanning would need to be extended upwards some, but the plus would be the extra storage space gained with the seacans, and pretty much rodent proof too! also, the seacans, the last ones i bought last summer were $2500, each, plus $750 each delivery, so round numbers $6500, plus whatever for the raised roof. plus whatever for the ends and garage doors, if you wanted them. Not sure that will be cheaper than the corrugated steel building available. just my 2 cents
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Gary
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Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 6:53pm |
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Wouldn't a good quality large Tarp be sufficient?
G
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wjohn
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Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 8:46pm |
 LouSWPA wrote:
the seacan idea would take a little work. they are only 8 feet high, so the roof spanning would need to be extended upwards some, but the plus would be the extra storage space gained with the seacans, and pretty much rodent proof too! also, the seacans, the last ones i bought last summer were $2500, each, plus $750 each delivery, so round numbers $6500, plus whatever for the raised roof. plus whatever for the ends and garage doors, if you wanted them. Not sure that will be cheaper than the corrugated steel building available. just my 2 cents |
That's about what I was figuring for cost on shipping containers, and like you pointed out, they're not tall enough, so you either have to build more structure above them or stack 2. I do see more and more of those buildings around here but you are correct - definitely not cheaper than some sort of post frame or other metal sided building. If I only needed 8' clearance it might be a different story because I could just get trusses to drop on top of them and keep going. I can definitely see the storage being handy though.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 8:51pm |
Gary wrote:
Wouldn't a good quality large Tarp be sufficient?
G |
I am not sure if I would be able to get a tarp tight enough over the whole combine to be able to trust it. We have days (not often, but not unheard of) where the sustained wind speeds are 40+ MPH with gusts of 60-70 MPH - and that's without any storm.
If I were tarping a gravity wagon or grain truck box that would fit nice and tight then I think it would be fine.
I do like that line of thinking though... maybe I can make some cheap ugly scrap sheet metal covers that I bolt on, mostly to keep rain off the chain/belt drives on the sides?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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DMiller
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 4:48am |
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Quite a few around here have bought the segmented curved rings or quonset style covers, can be open or closed ended. Plenty tall enough for Combines and only requires a basic footer to sit the rings into.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:43am |
if you can tpye...er typr arrrrgh type the right words in....google finds the right stuff...
oh yeah 1/2 my clocks are WRONG too !
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:57am |
well this is interesting.... 1st post in (on ?) my faceplant page is for a competitors can canopy !!! never ever seen one before and 'magically' FB posts an ad.. hmmmm
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 8:48am |
Gary wrote:
Wouldn't a good quality large Tarp be sufficient?
G |
No. Trying to tarp a combine and get it so there’s no place for water to pool is miserable. Then keep it in place for months of wind? Not likely. On top of all that anywhere the tarp contacts doesn’t breathe and you get mold, corrosion, etc.
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wjohn
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 8:55am |
jaybmiller wrote:
if you can tpye...er typr arrrrgh type the right words in....google finds the right stuff...
oh yeah 1/2 my clocks are WRONG too ! |
That does get you the height, but only rated for 50 MPH wind load! Where in the world would someone trust that... Inside a cave? Wonder how many people have had any luck with those...
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 9:04am |
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They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn.
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wjohn
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 11:20am |
Tbone95 wrote:
They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn. |
That's what most of the ones I've seen around here are like - set your trusses on top, basically. So far it does seem like I'm going to have to spend the money on some sort of pole building. I'm scanning through some of the RV storage carport-type structures to see if any of them have halfway decent wind ratings but so far it is sure looking like there are no cheap and easy options here.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 11:34am |
wjohn wrote:
Tbone95 wrote:
They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn. |
That's what most of the ones I've seen around here are like - set your trusses on top, basically. So far it does seem like I'm going to have to spend the money on some sort of pole building. I'm scanning through some of the RV storage carport-type structures to see if any of them have halfway decent wind ratings but so far it is sure looking like there are no cheap and easy options here. |
I feel that. I desperately need some more machine storage. I got kicked out of the neighbors shed I used to use. I’ve got a big Quonset so I’m all set for combine, cart and truck, but it is jam packed with smaller stuff too that doesn’t need as much head clearance. Just need money that’s all!  I was sure disappointed when I got the final price tag on the container shed.
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johnkc
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 12:57pm |
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The old chicken house trusses would be a good option. I see packages on market place around MO, OK, AR, KS. Just need to do a taller leg as chicken house trusses have around a 6-7 ft leg.
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dr p
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 2:56pm |
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Have you looked into the coverall style building. I know they don't have great wind resistance but if can you position it to give it shelter
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:01pm |
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the "car port" type systems made of 2 x 2 steel box with tin screwed to the outside is "normally" the cheap way to get something QUICK.... If you think that will blow away in the wind, how do you plan to anchor your "menards" building ? ..... You can screw anchors into the ground or you can drive 5/8 inch rebar 3 ft long into the ground on the bottom plate of the car port.. I would seriously consider something along that line.. If the wind is AWLAYS out of one direction ( west or north), set the building so you can add tin to that wall in the future, as needed..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 7:04pm |
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i suppose if you cant dig down or drive stakes into the ground, another option would be a couple dozen bags of concrete.. make a 2 x 2 plywood box a foot deep and set OVER the bottom plate of the car port .... every 6 or 8 ft... Then mix and pour concrete to fill the box... add as many as you need..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 6:45am |
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My combine had to set out one winter after the derachio. Tarped it, Had to do it again, I would just leave it open. The aforementioned problems and the livestock moved in en-mass! Was not a good thing, glad to have plenty of building space now.
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JC-WI
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Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 5:00pm |
Seen a fellow remove the end wall and haymow floor from his barn to get his combine in.
Seen
another that remove most of the end wall on a Lester Barn and then
removed the concrete inside, then dug a ramp down and 6 feet of dirt out
of the whole building and used it to stack round bales in. Don't know what he did to keep water from running in.
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dr p
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Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 7:03pm |
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You can tip an all crop so the tongue goes all up 45 degrees. You can gain a foot of clearance that way through a door
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Tbone95
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Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 9:04pm |
dr p wrote:
You can tip an all crop so the tongue goes all up 45 degrees. You can gain a foot of clearance that way through a door |
did that with where I stored my chopper! 
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Tbone95
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Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 9:06pm |
JC-WI wrote:
<div ="msg">
Seen a fellow remove the end wall and haymow floor from his barn to get his combine in.
Seen
another that remove most of the end wall on a Lester Barn and then
removed the concrete inside, then dug a ramp down and 6 feet of dirt out
of the whole building and used it to stack round bales in. Don't know what he did to keep water from running in. |
removing end wall and hay mow floor….was that my father in law? Course a couple years later the barn about fell down!
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jvin248
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Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 9:18pm |
.
They make extra tall shipping containers. Gives you another few feet. You could put crushed stone down to raise them another foot or two plus cement piles to get more height.
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ac160
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Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 7:05am |
DMiller wrote:
Quite a few around here have bought the segmented curved rings or quonset style covers, can be open or closed ended. Plenty tall enough for Combines and only requires a basic footer to sit the rings into. |
The hoop buildings are nice for storage and reasonably priced. I see a lot of them around my area and we have all types of weather.
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 7:37pm |
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Do a Hoop building anchored into top outer edges of sea-land containers. That way the sea-land containers become its anchors & hoop covers them too. Other anchor systems (large cast concrete blocks[2’x2’x4’?], poured concrete foundation/walls, treated lumber& drilled/screw anchors into stone/earth, etc,,,,) you might also choose for a hoop building may cost you as much or more than 2 long(40-50’?) sea-land containers???
AND none of the other anchors offer rodent/thief/weather proof options that the Sea-land containers can. Good place to store tools, air compressor, welder, electric genset, parts, maybe medium size vehicle, or small heated shop/office etc….
AND although the sea-land containers are anchored too, a person could more easily move them if later that becomes a consideration?
Talk to your hoop building supplier to discuss their designs per the sea-land containers so it’s correct design.
If that’s still too expensive, leave the gleaner set outside. Position it on a slight incline so it left side is lower to drain rain/snow from header, grain tank, & clean grain belly auger. Clean out all grain from it & grease it. Open the clean grain & return doors, Remove front raddle access panel to clean that area. Remove cab air filter so mice don’t destroy it. Remove starting batteries & store them in a warm place. Start machine, drive it some, & run its separator/header every 2-3 months. That won’t eliminate outdoor deterioration, but can help belts, chains, bearings, fuel tank, trans/finals stay in operational condition. Do not try to tarp machine.
Edited by AC7060IL - 11 Mar 2025 at 8:03pm
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wjohn
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Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 11:15pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
the "car port" type systems made of 2 x 2 steel box with tin screwed to the outside is "normally" the cheap way to get something QUICK.... If you think that will blow away in the wind, how do you plan to anchor your "menards" building ? ..... You can screw anchors into the ground or you can drive 5/8 inch rebar 3 ft long into the ground on the bottom plate of the car port.. I would seriously consider something along that line.. If the wind is AWLAYS out of one direction ( west or north), set the building so you can add tin to that wall in the future, as needed.. |
I should have clarified that the Menards buildings are all post frame and would require getting holes drilled in the rock. The wind is always out of the south in the summer, out of the north in the winter, and west or east with really bad storms, so it's hard to plan for.
Lots of good ideas here in this thread. I am researching all of them.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 6:56am |
The 'problem' with any/all of them is they are not 'cheap' ! Heck NOTHING today is 'cheap'. Also need to consider that if this IS your forever home, you'll have to LOOK at it forever, so maybe consider the 'upgrade' from cheap to inexpensive to build a better looking, more permanent structure. it does sound like you NEED a solid, stable building !
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Tbone95
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Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 10:34am |
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The shipping container style also has kits where you build a pony wall on top and then the roof and then you get plenty of height. Problem is it’s EXPENSIVE, and Jay makes a good point, in the end they look kinda tacky.
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tadams(OH)
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Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 1:42pm |
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They look tacky the way they are but you could cover them with vinyl siding or even steel siding to make them look better.
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