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Cheap Combine Storage |
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 2256 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 8:17pm |
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Yep... I think I have it down to post frame or carport style, as far as cost goes. Looking at some of the carport style ones - they get pricey quickly when you only look at the ones with good wind ratings, especially as you go wider with them. They seem to be cheaper if they are narrow and long like for RVs, which makes sense since the structure can be pretty minimal across the top. Even at that, a lot of them require being set on concrete and anchored down to it to get that advertised wind resistance. Seems like I am looking at carports that wind up being about 2/3 the cost of a slant roof post frame building, so it's hard to not lean towards the post frame that should last the rest of my life. We have had 30-40 MPH sustained winds all day and the highest recorded gust was 69 MPH. No storms. I don't want to go too cheap on a structure for sure - there are steel 55 gallon drums blowing/rolling around on my neighbor's property right now!
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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Missed out 15 years ago when a lumber yard went out of business and they tore it down. Lots of 3 walled sheds with wide bay openings. Not tall enough for a combine but would have been great for headers, balers, tractors etc. siding looked pretty rough but even to just get the roof trusses would have been nice.
Chinks own the factory across the road from our shop. They have expanded great guns. They built a 80 x 120x 20(?) pole style addition only to tear it down less than 2 years later! Not just taken apart, destroyed. Faster that way of course. ![]() |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88402 |
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If your looking for COST $$... i would start with something like this.. You can alway add side walls or a lean too onto the sides at a later date... You just need a good ANCHOR to the ground.... rods or concrete weights.. Steel has to be better long term than the canvas tent type covers ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4117 |
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I'm going to look into some sort of structure like mentioned here at some point. Was thinking a camper style carport but the sea cans might work? Mostly just for parts storage. I have an old 'cargill' unit Dad raised hogs on so there is concrete available.
Better organization is always a goal but man, it's hard to achieve!
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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$6k for a roof? Well I don’t know what I did wrong then. I wanted 14 feet of clearance so I was looking at the pony wall and roof. If you want it to code and permitted and all that BS, you have to buy an engineered plan. I don’t quite remember what width I asked for, probably 30 feet or so, and 40 feet long for the containers. So engineering, all the materials, and freight was over $50k, plus the containers and site prep and getting the containers level and square and all that jazz. I surely don’t have the means to do that. I vigorously rejected that quote, told him I had no idea what I was getting into and that was out of my league. About 3 weeks later he contacted me and said there was a cancellation, plus another building being shipped about 25 miles from me to save on freight and offered it for about $30k. So with all other expenses, figure $40-$65k! Yeah I suppose you could skirt all that and cobble together something cheaper, then have it blow down and damage the equipment. Then what did you save? And that was a building with no end walls, just the two sides and a roof. And assuming I did all my own work which I would probably not be able to do the setting of trusses. Edited by Tbone95 - 14 Mar 2025 at 6:23am |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24765 |
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40' used abused seacan might be $3000, so $6K for cans, another 6K for roof ?(don't know what trusses go for south of the 49th....) sounds like cheap protection AND get TWO 8x8x40 lockable storage units to boot.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88402 |
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by the time you purchase two sea cans and have them positioned and level... I think you could drill a couple dozen holes and plant laminated posts... Either way, you got to buy a ROOF.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24765 |
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google 'sea can garage', select 'images'...... !!!! Lots of great ways to use them.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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![]() Anyway, the pictures they sent me all showed the roof sitting on the “inner edge” of the container, in other words the container is not under the roof. I don’t particularly care for that flat top holding snow up against the roof structure and such. On the other hand wouldn’t be a fan of having them under roof either and losing all the space for combines and tractors and equipment. Guess you could say one of those just isn’t for me. |
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tadams(OH) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Jeromesville, O Points: 10990 |
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They look tacky the way they are but you could cover them with vinyl siding or even steel siding to make them look better.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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The shipping container style also has kits where you build a pony wall on top and then the roof and then you get plenty of height. Problem is it’s EXPENSIVE, and Jay makes a good point, in the end they look kinda tacky.
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24765 |
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The 'problem' with any/all of them is they are not 'cheap' ! Heck NOTHING today is 'cheap'. Also need to consider that if this IS your forever home, you'll have to LOOK at it forever, so maybe consider the 'upgrade' from cheap to inexpensive to build a better looking, more permanent structure. it does sound like you NEED a solid, stable building !
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 2256 |
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I should have clarified that the Menards buildings are all post frame and would require getting holes drilled in the rock. The wind is always out of the south in the summer, out of the north in the winter, and west or east with really bad storms, so it's hard to plan for. Lots of good ideas here in this thread. I am researching all of them.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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AC7060IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3574 |
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Do a Hoop building anchored into top outer edges of sea-land containers. That way the sea-land containers become its anchors & hoop covers them too. Other anchor systems (large cast concrete blocks[2’x2’x4’?], poured concrete foundation/walls, treated lumber& drilled/screw anchors into stone/earth, etc,,,,) you might also choose for a hoop building may cost you as much or more than 2 long(40-50’?) sea-land containers???
AND none of the other anchors offer rodent/thief/weather proof options that the Sea-land containers can. Good place to store tools, air compressor, welder, electric genset, parts, maybe medium size vehicle, or small heated shop/office etc…. AND although the sea-land containers are anchored too, a person could more easily move them if later that becomes a consideration? Talk to your hoop building supplier to discuss their designs per the sea-land containers so it’s correct design. If that’s still too expensive, leave the gleaner set outside. Position it on a slight incline so it left side is lower to drain rain/snow from header, grain tank, & clean grain belly auger. Clean out all grain from it & grease it. Open the clean grain & return doors, Remove front raddle access panel to clean that area. Remove cab air filter so mice don’t destroy it. Remove starting batteries & store them in a warm place. Start machine, drive it some, & run its separator/header every 2-3 months. That won’t eliminate outdoor deterioration, but can help belts, chains, bearings, fuel tank, trans/finals stay in operational condition. Do not try to tarp machine. Edited by AC7060IL - 11 Mar 2025 at 8:03pm |
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ac160 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 02 Dec 2010 Points: 414 |
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The hoop buildings are nice for storage and reasonably priced. I see a lot of them around my area and we have all types of weather.
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jvin248 ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Jan 2022 Location: Detroit Points: 475 |
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. They make extra tall shipping containers. Gives you another few feet. You could put crushed stone down to raise them another foot or two plus cement piles to get more height. . |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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dr p ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 24 Feb 2019 Location: new york Points: 1414 |
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You can tip an all crop so the tongue goes all up 45 degrees. You can gain a foot of clearance that way through a door
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34370 |
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Seen a fellow remove the end wall and haymow floor from his barn to get his combine in. Seen
another that remove most of the end wall on a Lester Barn and then
removed the concrete inside, then dug a ramp down and 6 feet of dirt out
of the whole building and used it to stack round bales in. Don't know what he did to keep water from running in. |
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4117 |
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My combine had to set out one winter after the derachio. Tarped it, Had to do it again, I would just leave it open. The aforementioned problems and the livestock moved in en-mass! Was not a good thing, glad to have plenty of building space now.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88402 |
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i suppose if you cant dig down or drive stakes into the ground, another option would be a couple dozen bags of concrete.. make a 2 x 2 plywood box a foot deep and set OVER the bottom plate of the car port .... every 6 or 8 ft... Then mix and pour concrete to fill the box... add as many as you need..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88402 |
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the "car port" type systems made of 2 x 2 steel box with tin screwed to the outside is "normally" the cheap way to get something QUICK.... If you think that will blow away in the wind, how do you plan to anchor your "menards" building ? ..... You can screw anchors into the ground or you can drive 5/8 inch rebar 3 ft long into the ground on the bottom plate of the car port.. I would seriously consider something along that line.. If the wind is AWLAYS out of one direction ( west or north), set the building so you can add tin to that wall in the future, as needed..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dr p ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 24 Feb 2019 Location: new york Points: 1414 |
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Have you looked into the coverall style building. I know they don't have great wind resistance but if can you position it to give it shelter
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johnkc ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: KCMO Points: 728 |
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The old chicken house trusses would be a good option. I see packages on market place around MO, OK, AR, KS. Just need to do a taller leg as chicken house trusses have around a 6-7 ft leg.
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I support the development of hybrid automobiles and alternative fuels as I need DIESEL fuel for my ALLIS CHALMERS!
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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I feel that. I desperately need some more machine storage. I got kicked out of the neighbors shed I used to use. I’ve got a big Quonset so I’m all set for combine, cart and truck, but it is jam packed with smaller stuff too that doesn’t need as much head clearance. Just need money that’s all! ![]() |
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 2256 |
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That's what most of the ones I've seen around here are like - set your trusses on top, basically. So far it does seem like I'm going to have to spend the money on some sort of pole building. I'm scanning through some of the RV storage carport-type structures to see if any of them have halfway decent wind ratings but so far it is sure looking like there are no cheap and easy options here.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12241 |
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They also make trussed roof systems to attach to the seacans. Very spendy though by the time you pay for the containers, shipping, the engineering of the roof structure for your area. I looked into them and figured I’d be better off with a pole barn.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 2256 |
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That does get you the height, but only rated for 50 MPH wind load! Where in the world would someone trust that... Inside a cave? Wonder how many people have had any luck with those...
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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