Chassis vs engine s/n's

Dr.

You will be pleased to know that Bryan Smith, along with info from Ed Mills, has already done this for a number of Model Tractors.

See attached Link to Bryans' Website:

Gary


       http://wsmth.people.clemson.edu/SNFind/esn_tsn6.htm

I just bought a B.  Been looking for a while.  Question;  My 1946 G per serial number had an engine change out and the seller thought it was a 1948 engine.  Per the sn on the case (CE128124) it came out after the last engine was built in 1957.  Hmmm?  the last engine sn I found for 1957 was 127xxx.  Any idea what I have.   According to the code after the casting number of -25, it would be a 1953.  Ideas?

Well, they quit making model "C" tractors in 1949. They replaced the model "C" tractor with the "CA" tractor in 1950.  Each of these tractors (from what I can tell) used the "CE" engine. The CA tractor had more compression and RPM's, but the engine was essentially very similar. The engine s/n charts reflect that, as the C tractor ended (supposedly) with engine CE127393 ??  but the first model CA tractor had engine s/n CE140553 in 1950. The last CA tractor had engine s/n CE200212.  I would venture to say an engine with a s/n CE128124 would make it a 1949 or 1950 engine build. Remember, these engine were made for MANY other applications (grinders, balers, pumps, ferris wheel rides, etc) not just Allis tractors.

How do you know -25 means 1953 ??  As far as all the tractors I've ever painted (maybe 8) I sandblasted all the castings on ONE early on, and I'll never do that again. They were rusty within 2 hrs of the blasting being completed.  Since then, I thoroughly clean all castings, wire brush where needed and hand scuff the rest with red Scotch Brite pads to scuff the paint that has been on there for 50 or more years, clean again and paint. Primer first, maybe. No primer, yes I've done it like that too. Why remove paint that is stuck good ?? Just clean, scuff, clean and paint. Right or wrong, I only sandblast sheetmetal or brackets.

dont sand blast it at all. you wont get anything that will adhear and protect the metal as well as the original lead based paint and primer. I clean real well. scrape and brush. oven cleaned and hot wash. scuff it tack it and paint it. 15 years later it still looks great. I did feather and prime the sheet metal you have to protect the parts you welded and ground to get smooth. I havent used any body filler. I just weld the cracks and tears. heat and hammer and grind.  the metal is thich and strong enough it takes real well to triditional metal working .