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Freewheeling 
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Location: Wisconsin
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 Topic: Carb on an IB
Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 1:05pm |
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My 1952 IB has a Zenith carb # 10698A 212845. When the choke is in the closed position the lever is horizontal and the choke rod can't open it since it's in a downward angle. It appears the lever should be at something like a 45 degree angle. The lever is pinned to the choke shaft. I have a new choke shaft but it's splined and I don't have a splined lever. I'm thinking maybe either reposition the lever and drill a new hole in the existing shaft or replace the shaft with the splined one and drill a hole to pin it to the lever. Suggestions?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 1:27pm |
im not sure of your description of the attachement.. EVERY B carburetor i have seen has a small block with a setscrew on it ON THE CARB LEVER... You slide the choke shaft thru the 3/16 inch hole in the block, then tighten the setscrew to hold it in place. That allows you to change the length of the choke rod.
If your ROD connects to the carb ARM and must be an EXACT LENGTH... You could cut and weld the ROD to a given length.... but this is not original.
Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Sep 2024 at 1:39pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 1:33pm |
this small block with the 3/16 hole in it slides into the carb ARM... the CLIP next to it holds it into the hole.. The block can swivel in the hole as the arm moves forward and back.. the BLOCK has a setscrew in the side to pinch the choke rod into postion.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 1:36pm |
not your model, but this shows the BLOCK and set screw - DESIGN.
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Freewheeling
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Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 2:29pm |
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Yup, mine has the swivel block and set screw connection for the rod although it is defintely different. The lever on mine is on the inside between the carb body and the engine block. The rod goes through a hole in the gas tank mount and when it's in position and the choke is closed, the rod drops below the center of the choke shaft which makes it impossible for the rod to push the lever forward. I'm thinking that this is not the original carb. Is that piece to the left on the photo for the rod to go into as guide?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 4:03pm |
no .. that is a generic drawing... your choke ROD is a 3/16 ( guess) steel rod. It does not need a "clamp" at the carb... and yes, the choke is between the carb and eng block.
I guess what your saying is your ARM on the side of the carb is not INDEXED right to the CHOKE SHAFT... so the problem has nothing to do with the ROD..... when you close the CHOKE, your ARM is horizontal and not somewhat pointed UPWARD......
You are right, the ARM should go 45 degrees FORWARD (choke off) and 45 degrees BACKWAR ( choke on)..from vertical.... I think you need to reindex the arm... i have removed throttle arms and rotated a few degrees and solder back to the end of the shaft ( usually they are press fit onto a square end and then stamped or hammer on the end of the shaft to distort it and hold the arm on..
Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Sep 2024 at 4:05pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 4:08pm |
double check inside and make sure the round choke plate is properly attached to the shaft... I have never seen a carb where the arm was horizontal when the choke was ON or OFF. ... the photo below is a good representation of what the ANGLE of the arm should be
Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Sep 2024 at 5:42pm
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Freewheeling
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Posted: 20 Sep 2024 at 8:32am |
Yes sir, the angle of the lever is the problem. It doesn't make sense that it has to go horizontal to close. The choke plate is attached properly and doesn't hang up or bind. I'm going to remove the little pin that goes through the lever collar and the shaft. I might learn more. Most everything the previous owners did they did wrong so maybe this was some of their handywork.
I think you responded to my clutch problem also. I've ordered new longer bolts and jamb nuts for the three fingers on the pressure plate so I can get the 1 13/16 setting. The bolts that are in it are rounded on the end so I'm going to do the same just to make sure there are no sharp edges when they contact the disk. I'm a bit disappointed that Kentucky Clutch doesn't address this issue when they rebuild the pressure plate. If I had to do it again I would order new. The cost savings isn't worth it.
One final issue is the oil leak from the filter base. I made the mistake of ordering a gasket from Steiner and I think it's too thin. I filed the base ears flat and also the surface of the block as best I could. Still leaks so I'm going to make my own gasket out of 1/8 rubberized cork and apply a little Permatex Form-A-Gasket to both sides. Why Allis never fixed this issue in all the years they built that engine is beyond me. I suppose the farmers didn't care.
Thanks for all your input, Steve!
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 20 Sep 2024 at 8:41am |
Still leaks so I'm going to make my own gasket out of 1/8 rubberized cork and apply a little Permatex Form-A-Gasket to both sides.
BINGO... and dont overtorque.. just SQUEEZE the gasket.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 20 Sep 2024 at 10:56am |
The 212845 is a common Carburetor for the B/C models. So you have the right Carb. As for the leaky oil filter base, what I do is fill the inside of the base all the way around with RTV right up to the edge where the gasket sits. I get the RTV nice n' flush all the way across. Let it cure for a couple days, then install it with the cork or rubber gasket. The RTV gives the gasket a larger surface to sit flush against the block thus eliminating a leak issue. Works every time for me. HTH Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Freewheeling
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Posted: 20 Sep 2024 at 12:31pm |
If it's the right carb then maybe it's the bowl that's wrong. They are interchangable. The lever is pinned to the shaft and it simply cannot work in this application.
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Freewheeling
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Posted: 20 Sep 2024 at 9:41pm |
I could not drive out the pin on my carb choke lever. Had to drill it out. I tossed the old shaft and put on a new splined one. Was surprised that the fit was nice and tight so I don't think I'll have to use a pin. The lever was above the shaft before but I put it below like the photo. Thanks for the help y'all. 
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