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MELCA
Bronze Level Joined: 15 Jun 2023 Location: NE Kansas Points: 7 |
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Posted: 07 Aug 2023 at 6:06pm |
1952 CA distributor tractor. New battery 6 volt positive ground. Battery will barely turn her over. Very slow. I hooked up a 12 volt battery to the starter via jumper cables ground to frame positive to starter post and……Nothing. Nada, no result at all. Cleaned all connections new ground cable with same results.
Is there a good way to determine if it is the starter? Not sure what to try next. Acts like a very weak battery which is why I jumpered it. All suggestions appreciated. Thanks Mike |
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Ken Mn
Bronze Level Joined: 10 Nov 2021 Location: Zumbrota Mn. Points: 11 |
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The battery cables for 6 volt must be heavy gauge. Cables for 12 volt application loose too much power. The cable ends that connect to the battery should be molded on not clamped on. That is also point of lost energy. Jumping in a 12 volt battery is a good idea but it is difficult to get good connections using jumper cables. I would try placing the 12 volt battery in the battery box for a quick try.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 81066 |
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look at the cable ends that clamp onto the battery.. Should not have any corrosion or black oxide coating inside the clamp.. wire brush, sand paper to get clean......... if cable check out OK... blame the starter motor/ starter switch............. installing the 12v battery would be a GOOD test.
Edited by steve(ill) - 07 Aug 2023 at 7:45pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 22445 |
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Pull starter out of tractor, inspect on bench, bypass solenoid/switch and test spin ( secure it first !!! ), if it spins fine..try with solenoid/switch, if it doesn't spin... swtich/solenoid is bad. My 51 had the 'push to start' switch, many were 'upgraded' to a solenoid.... |
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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MELCA
Bronze Level Joined: 15 Jun 2023 Location: NE Kansas Points: 7 |
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Thanks much for the responses. I will pull the starter and bench test. Need to get it going. Will try 12 volt battery installed first though. Cables are 4 gauge but they are TSC generic brand.
Edited by MELCA - 08 Aug 2023 at 8:10am |
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 22445 |
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4 ga is 12volt battery I think..... 1,2ga for 6volt.... Steve@B&B will KNOW !
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Gary
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5372 |
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Along with the previous suggestions, also check the bolt that secures the Starter to the Tractor. Loosen the locknut and remove the bolt. Clean the threads and also the nose of the bolt. This bolt is usually the grounding between the Starter and the Torque Tube. G |
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MELCA
Bronze Level Joined: 15 Jun 2023 Location: NE Kansas Points: 7 |
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Thanks Gary, will do that first as it is easy. Good to know…
Mike |
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DMac
Bronze Level Joined: 18 Feb 2023 Location: Springville ny Points: 74 |
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4ga wires definitely too small. I like 1/0 or 2/0 cable with soldered ends for 6v.
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 4910 |
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My WD became slow to turn over even with new fresh 6V battery. I removed all battery cables and replaced them with 1/0 welding cable, crimp connectors for the battery and the ends for the starter and the ground. Took a wire wheel to the area where the ground attached. Now it spins over like it should. Starts so much easier. That’s been 3 years ago and it was such an improvement. Most battery shops have the crimp tool and connectors. Cut the cable to the appropriate length and take it to them to crimp.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4664 |
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I know I am king of "off subject, but I bought one a cable crimper a couple years ago, that I really like.
I use mine in the vise rather than hitting it with a hammer. I find that it is much easier to keep everything in place in the vise than it is while hitting it with a hammer. it fits big cable and I think it does a nice job. I just crimped a cable for the "Sportsman" race car that my nephew works on. They were impressed.
Edited by WF owner - 09 Aug 2023 at 4:34am |
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 22445 |
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If you're going to 'make your own', you should 'tin' the copper ends into a solid 'mass', then crimp or.... use a 'liquid rubber' once crimped to SEAL the connection. Any moisture, even condensation, gets in between the zillion strands of copper and corrosion begins ...and never ends... rrr..rrr..r
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4664 |
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I bought this kit that has heat shrink in it. So far, no problems.
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 4910 |
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The crimp clamps that I use for the battery and the ends for the starter and ground are closed on the end. Slip heat shrink on the cable before the crimp and then shrink after the crimp is done.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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