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84 prospector 
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Joined: 30 Aug 2022
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 Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:14pm |
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The tee that the gauge is connected to and the line coming from the filter on it is in a port on the side of the block. Where does the oil actually come out of the block from? The small tee with the small line that is connected to the filter? Or from the bigger tee on the side with the gauge and the bigger line?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:23pm |
Look at my picture... the oil comes from the bell housing TEE into the bottom of the filter... about 15% of the oil is DUMPED TO SUMP thru that 1/2 inch hole in the side of the block.... You are dumping WAY TOO MUCH Oil back to the sump with that wrong filter..
Plug the BIG STEEL PIPE out of the filter and put the gauge there... Eliminate the line INTO THE BLOCK...
Or just put the gauge on the curved steel tube going INTO the filter, and eliminate the filter / STEEL PIPE drain and all.
Edited by steve(ill) - 31 Aug 2022 at 10:28pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:27pm |
So just to be clear I can’t use the filter setup that is on it? Is the system now going to be starving it of oil?
Yes, that filter is 100% of your problem.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:31pm |
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Ok now that makes sense, it’s just pushing All the oil straight through that filter because it’s not a bypass and back into the block. It will be safe to run it for a few days with the small oil line going to the filter blocked off with the gauge?
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:41pm |
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Does that hole in the side of the block that the oil is returning through just go straight to the pan?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:44pm |
Yes... you can basically run FOREVER without the filter... There are a lot of smaller gasoline engines that never had oil filters.. Would be a good idea to put NEW OIL in it, ( in the near future).. that is CLEAN and does not need a filter.
The hole in the block just drains into the pan..( there is a little puddle / dam inside that forms overflow into the pan).... There should be a tapped hole on each side of it.. Just bolt a small sheet metal plate over the hole.... Even a piece of duct tape might be OK for a test.
Edited by steve(ill) - 31 Aug 2022 at 10:50pm
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 11:06pm |
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Ok I will try that tomorrow. Do they make filters that can screw on it that would have enough restriction?
Edited by 84 prospector - 31 Aug 2022 at 11:56pm
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 6:37am |
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You can use this filter setup if you put in a restriction ahead of the filter.
I would suggest an orifice no bigger than 1/16" to start with.
Edited by Les Kerf - 01 Sep 2022 at 6:39am
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Tbone95
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 6:41am |
 steve(ill) wrote:
There is no need to use a screw driver unless you bought an old tractor / truck and the original owner put it in with a breaker bar !!.... Filters that i have put on, i can take off with an 8 inch long filter wrench..
The tractor only puts out about 15 psi max.. You might only have 10 psi on an old motor.. You dont have a lot of flow either... If your careful taking the filter off, you can check the tube and crank to check flow, then reinstall the OLD FILTER.. It really dont do much anyway since it is a BYPASS... you can install NEW at a later date when you do the oil. |
But there sometimes is a need. I don't know what the heck happened to my buddy's car back in the day.....it wasn't an old car, and wasn't like the oil had never been changed, and once the dang filter finally came off, the new one went on so it was not cross threaded  But that sucker fought tooth and nail!
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:05am |
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as Les said, you need to restrict the oil flow thru the filter so that only 15% of the total goes that way.. The ORIGINAL filter does that internally with its cotton construction..An auto filter has NO RESTRICTION so it wall pass MAX FLOW... An aftermarket filter could work if you had an orifice... If your restricting 10%- 15%- 20%... its not that important.. The idea is to maintain PRESSURE on the gauge and still have EXTRA oil that you can run thru the filter... You could use a needle valve and only crack it a turn open, then lock in place.... But if you want a clean, more original look ... go with the factory filter.
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PaulB
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:13am |
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Truthfully $90 for the oil filter base, gauge, filter, oil line and all the fittings is not far off from what it should be. I regularly get $50 just for a good base with the filter tube in it. I have plenty of them available. New FRAM 159 filters are going for close to $20 anywhere. The oil line is unique to the Allis Chalmers BE/CE and not available anywhere except for used or maybe NOS. A new aftermarket gauge will cost more than $30 and good used OEM one will fetch $25 easily.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Dick L
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:03pm |
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Let me look around. I would bet my price would be quite a bit lower than you will find anywhere else.. You would need to buy a new filter if you decide to try my deals.
Edited by Dick L - 01 Sep 2022 at 4:06pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:14pm |
needs a little cleanup and a new filter...
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:20pm |
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For now could I pack cotton swabs or something in the middle of the filter to restrict the flow?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:25pm |
No... you would have no idea what amount to use... if you insist on using the auto type filter, plug up a fitting and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 inch hole in it........ Or use a valve like the fuel pet cock and restrict the flow ...........
Personally i would SCRAP the auto filter and use NOTHING if i was not going to install the original.
Did you cap the drain line and rerun the pressure test ???
Edited by steve(ill) - 01 Sep 2022 at 4:25pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:28pm |
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No I haven’t been home yet, few hours I’ll try that.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 6:48pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
No... you would have no idea what amount to use... if you insist on using the auto type filter, plug up a fitting and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 inch hole in it........ Or use a valve like the fuel pet cock and restrict the flow ...........
Personally i would SCRAP the auto filter and use NOTHING if i was not going to install the original.
Did you cap the drain line and rerun the pressure test ???
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Start with the 1/16. You can make a 1/16 hole 1/8, but not the other way. 1/8 will flow basically 4x the flow as 1/16, which in your case you’re trying to restrict that flow.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:39pm |
I bypassed the filter and have good pressure. 
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:41pm |
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Should I be ok to run it like this for a few weeks until I can get a correct housing or do something about this filter system that is on it?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 8:23pm |
Change the oil out first chance you get and you would be good for YEARS... The filter system is nice to have, but not a necessity..... Normally the pressure is around the O or R with good viscosity oil and cool temps.. As it warms up it might drop a little..
Right now you are in GREAT SHAPE !!!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 9:03pm |
I changed the oil and it still has good pressure. It smokes very bad but it’s clearing up more as it runs. I filled the radiator and there’s a bunch of gummy oily stuff in it so I’m going to have to flush it out, not a big deal. I tested the voltage and it is not charging it’s staying around 6.3/6.2 volts. a terminal on the voltage regular is not hooked up but I’m not sure what each terminal does 
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 9:10pm |
voltage regulators look something like this... Clean the terminals and maybe you can see a letter on each. Probably in this order anyway.
while running, if you GROUND the "F" terminal , you should see higher voltage at the "A" or "GEN" terminal .........if the regulator is working, you will see the charge at the "Bat" terminal also.
the system can be NEGATIVE or POSITIVE GROUND... From the Factory it was 6 v POSITIVE GROUND.
Edited by steve(ill) - 01 Sep 2022 at 9:11pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 9:14pm |
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generators fall in the same catagory as filters (for NECESSITY.)... Many old tractors with bad generators just charge the battery with a shop charger once a week... Generator is used to adjust fan belt only. ............ thats a possibility for now.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 10:16pm |
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Smoke is almost gone now, every once and a while it will miss and smoke. Drives pretty well, more oily gummy stuff in the radiator started coming flowing to the top so the radiator is going to need a very good flush. Is there anything else I should flush it with besides water to help clean it?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 10:28pm |
a few ounces of laundry soap in the water will loosen any "oily stuff"... run for 20 minutes, drain and flush, then add your water and antifreeze.
piston rings "STICK" when setting for several years... Might take a couple hours to loosen up and reseal... That could be your SMOKE.
Edited by steve(ill) - 01 Sep 2022 at 10:29pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 10:57pm |
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Will dish soap work just as well?
Edited by 84 prospector - 01 Sep 2022 at 10:59pm
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WF owner
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Posted: 02 Sep 2022 at 6:06am |
84 prospector wrote:
Will dish soap work just as well? |
Dish soap will make suds. You want a non-sudsing soap. You need to find where the oil in the coolant is coming from!
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 02 Sep 2022 at 7:04am |
if dish soap is all you got, that would work. Just dont add too much 3-4 spoon fulls are enough..... Seen them little oily duckies on the TV and DAWN seems to work good on them ! 
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 02 Sep 2022 at 7:27pm |
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Radiator is cleaning up well, I looked at the letters on the voltage regulator and the middle one says batt, the right one with the red wire says F, and the one disconnected says L. Is it possible that this was converted to negative ground because the ammeter is reading “charge” while there is a load being put on the battery and it won’t go above 6.2. There is a sticker on the generator that has a local power supply shop name on it.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 02 Sep 2022 at 7:42pm |
"L" normally means LOAD and is hot like the BAT terminal when the tractor is running... On that type of regulator, the "G" or missing terminal might be on the BACK side ???
Look at your battery.. ONE terminal runs to the starter... the other is GROUNDED to the frame.. That will tell you if it is POS or NEG ground....
You need to test the generator without the regulator to see if it works.. Like i said, ground the "F" terminal ........ run a jumper wire from the "A" terminal to the battery ( or starter) HOT lug... When the tractor is running, measure the voltage between the "A and F" terminals.. If the generator works, it should read around 7 volts... If you pull the wire off the A terminal and measure the generator output, it might go to 13-14 volts NON REGULATED... since it cant see the battery.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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