Big Ten Motor and Tracker 8 Motor Help

Hello All.
I have a Big Ten Garden Tractor and a Tracker 8 Snow blower that both need some motor work. The Big Ten is hard to get started, once its running it runs out decent. Guessing carb work? I've used what little knowledge I have to attempt to fix it but to no avail. The Tracker 8 I can not get to run at all. I'm 99% its a spark problem. I've taken the snow blower to a couple local small engine shops with no luck from them either. One shop said they wouldn't work on that old of a motor and the other stuck some electrical parts in it but don't make it run. Info on the Snow Blower Motor: 8 HP Briggs, Model 190412 Type 0695-02. I don't have the info on the Big Ten handy at the moment. Both machines look great for their age. My hope is to find someone on here that would be interested in working on these machines or know of someone I can contact. I'm not apposed to driving a decent distance or spending decent money on both machines as I'd rather have someone work on the machines that is used to the older Briggs motors and/or also shares my love of Allis Chalmers equipment. Any/All help appreciated. Thanks and God Bless
Ryan

on the modall 19 remove the flywheel and replace the points and condenser  also this engine can have the pionts eliminated and use the new magneto i dont have the part # but your local mower shop should be able to call their briggs distributer and get the # from technial services    the 10 hp will need the points and condensor done and also the valves should be lapped and the lash checked     i have a good runnining 10hp out of my 101 same tractor  i put a model 32 in  so the 10 with starter generator regulator and complete wire harnass is just sitting needs to go to agoog home

I bought a SnoBee 7 hp a few years ago. Broken rope so I had no idea if it would run even though the fella said it did. So I took him at his word, sure enough after I installed a new rope it did run but was rough. Pulled the flywheel which obviously had never been off. Installed new points, condenser. New plug, cleaned the carb and she runs wonderful. A compression test tells how healthy an engine is. That’s always my first test before pouring a lot of $ into it. If it’s in specs, then I will replace what it needs to make it run. Less than $30 to get my SnoBee in tip top shape.
My 5hp tiller the same way, points, condenser, carb kit, and a coil due to no spark after the points, condenser replacement. Less than $75 to get a great condition tiller ready for work.
They are not difficult to work on. Not much of a repair shop if they can’t repair an older B&S. A shop should understand how an engine works, be able to diagnose it’s issue, and repair it. JMO, I’m not a certified mechanic, just a fella that tinkers on old AC stuff and gets the satisfaction of fixing it myself. If you was closer I would be glad to look at it for ya.

The wire under the red arrow goes to the kill switch on the throttle plate. As you move the throttle to idle, you should see a male spade connector that the female connector should slide on. As you move the throttle more it will eventually touch the metal of the spade connector which grounds the coil to kill the engine.
The green arrow wire goes under one of the coil mounting bolts.
Of course this is based on if this is the correct coil for this engine....if it has the throttle plate that I described.

Haha I been there before! Old 2 cycle Echo trimmer gave me quite a jolt! K, I'll go ahead and connect the wires as you described. I know it's not saying much but the mag looks very similar to the mag I removed because of the mouse chewed wire. Thanks for the help!

Did you find those wires not connected when it came back from the shop? If so, I would ask for my money to be refunded! Best thing to start with is get the model number, type, serial number from your engine. It’s stamped on the engine cowl or on the engine tin. With those numbers you can order the parts you need. Like any other engine, coils, points, condensers come in different types. The correct ones are required to make it run. Looking at your picture, there appears to be a lot of rust around the flywheel. Since you need to remove the coil anyway to place the wire under a mounting bolt, lets clean it up. If they did in fact replace the points and condenser then the flywheel will pop off easily. Loosen the center nut that holds the flywheel onto the crankshaft. Back it off until its flush withe end of the crankshaft. A few taps with a small hammer on the nut should pop the flywheel loose. If it doesn’t pop loose, my guess would be that they didn’t replace your parts. It takes a while for the flywheel to reseat onto the crankshaft after one has been removed. Anyway, if it doesn’t come loose then you will need a 2 jaw flywheel puller. Very inexpensive at a parts store or Harbor freight. If you haven’t used one before let me know. Once its off, use fine sand paper to clean up the magnetic pickup on the flywheel facing the coil. It should shine up pretty well when your done. Take the coil and clean up all 3 pickup points on it as well. Now that the flywheel is off, remove the cover that is covering the points, does it appear that you have new points and condenser? If so, check the gap between the points and the condenser. To make it easier, spin the nut back on the crank and use it to turn the engine clockwise slowly until you see the points open up the their widest point. A match book is the correct thickness and works well. Or if you have a .016-.020 inch feeler gauge then that will be fine. Loosen the bolt holding condenser to slide it in or out to obtain the correct gap. Once you have it set, turn the engine a time or 2 and check it again. If it is still correct, put the cover back on as well as line up the key way for the flywheel and slip it back onto the crankshaft. Tighten the nut. I use a piece of card stock, post card will work also, to set the gap for the coil because it can be wrapped around the flywheel. You only need it to go a inch beyond the magnetic area of the flywheel. Turn the flywheel so the magnetic area is at the top where the coil will be mounted. Lay the card stock on top of the magnetic area, place the coil in its mounted position. It will pull itself towards the magnet of the flywheel. Insert the attaching bolts on the coil along with the wire under the green arrow from your previous picture. Tighten bolts. Turn the flywheel clockwise and the card stock should come out as you turn the flywheel. If it doesn’t just pull it out.
Now your gaps should be correct, connect the kill wire and if the coil, points, condenser are good you should have spark at your plug.

According to the ole Internet a Champion RC12YC or equivalent. Was you able to get the flywheel cleaned up? Your on the right track, after a new plug, I would be suspecting the coil.

I recommend Bobs Small Engine Repair for parts and help, he is a older guy who has been around these old Briggs for a long time. He might be a help. Here is a link to his web site: https://www.bser.com/