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Thad in AR. 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
Points: 9682
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 Topic: Barrel stove
Posted: 13 hours 10 minutes ago at 8:07pm |
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Hey guys I’m building a barrel stove. I’m actually using a large pressure tank rather than a barrel but same idea.
It’s going in a corner in my shop. I intend to dry stack concrete blocks on the wall beside it and the wall behind it.
How close do you think I can safely put it to the concrete blocks?
Has anyone ever tried an oil drip system on a wood stove?
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8734
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Posted: 12 hours 50 minutes ago at 8:27pm |
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I have seen some oil drippers somewhere/sometime past on barrel wood burners so yes you can.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 89164
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Posted: 12 hours 41 minutes ago at 8:36pm |
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Normal clearance to a non combustable wall is 12 inches i think.. I would stack the blocks an inch or two from the wood wall so it can breath... You can cut the 12 inches down to 6-8 inches if you put a box fan or squirrel cage blower and circ air between the blocks and the stove.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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jvin248
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Joined: 17 Jan 2022
Location: Detroit
Points: 497
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Posted: 12 hours 17 minutes ago at 9:00pm |
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YouTube has a few used oil drip system builds.
Also a few that wrap coils around the vent pipe to heat water.
You might fill the cement block with sand to increase it's thermal retention, and insulate the wall behind it better.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 11 hours 53 minutes ago at 9:24pm |
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they also make concrete panels that are 30" x 60" and 1/2 inch thick... looks like drywall only concrete... couple pieces of that screwed to the original all would help--- with blocks in front..
Edited by steve(ill) - 11 hours 52 minutes ago at 9:25pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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im4racin
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Joined: 12 Jun 2017
Location: Garrison ND
Points: 1084
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Posted: 11 hours 51 minutes ago at 9:26pm |
I would put bottom row of blocks so holes are horizontal and remaining layers with holes vertical. It will help with convection in the air gap mentioned above.
Use a needle valve for flow control and a ball valve right after it for shut off on the oil drip. Be careful of changing viscosity oil and that you don’t over load the fire. It can have an uncontrolled thermal event!
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013
Location: New mexico
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Posted: 9 hours 59 minutes ago at 11:18pm |
Hey Good Buddy,,,,hope all is going well for you,,,,  Several years ago,,I started to build such an animal and after talking to a friend that had an automatic transmission shop and had built one to burn the transmission oil he saved. His biggest complaint was smoking up his shop on startup. He said he was going to try something like an injecttion pump off a tractor that would atomize the oil at higher pressure for cleaner burning. His home made heater would leak at several places on both barrels and did not draft worth a flip,,,,!!!! It goes without saying,,every seam in the barrels should be leak proof to where you can snuff out the flame by closing the air intake when there is a run a way in the firebox,,,, Good Luck,,,!!! and don't be a stranger,,,,, 
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Thad in AR.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
Points: 9682
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Posted: 4 hours 53 minutes ago at 4:24am |
 steve(ill) wrote:
they also make concrete panels that are 30" x 60" and 1/2 inch thick... looks like drywall only concrete... couple pieces of that screwed to the original all would help--- with blocks in front..
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I think I will put hardiboard on that sidewall before the blocks. The back wall is just purlins on a pole barn. I may add hardiboard to that as well.
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Thad in AR.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
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Posted: 4 hours 51 minutes ago at 4:26am |
im4racin wrote:
I would put bottom row of blocks so holes are horizontal and remaining layers with holes vertical. It will help with convection in the air gap mentioned above.
Use a needle valve for flow control and a ball valve right after it for shut off on the oil drip. Be careful of changing viscosity oil and that you don’t over load the fire. It can have an uncontrolled thermal event! |
I really like the idea of the bottom row stacked horizontal. Would let a lot of air flow.
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Thad in AR.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
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Posted: 4 hours 47 minutes ago at 4:30am |
desertjoe wrote:
Hey Good Buddy,,,,hope all is going well for you,,,, Several years ago,,I started to build such an animal and after talking to a friend that had an automatic transmission shop and had built one to burn the transmission oil he saved. His biggest complaint was smoking up his shop on startup. He said he was going to try something like an injecttion pump off a tractor that would atomize the oil at higher pressure for cleaner burning. His home made heater would leak at several places on both barrels and did not draft worth a flip,,,,!!!! It goes without saying,,every seam in the barrels should be leak proof to where you can snuff out the flame by closing the air intake when there is a run a way in the firebox,,,, Good Luck,,,!!! and don't be a stranger,,,,, |
Joe I’ll keep those thoughts in mind. I ordered a “supposedly airtight” barrel stove door. This will be a wood burner with possibly oil drip added to it. I don’t think the drip oil burners work well with modern oil.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24888
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Posted: 3 hours 31 minutes ago at 5:46am |
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You should use 'roofing tin' on the walls behind the stove. It'll reflect the heat and more importantly PROTECT the wall from sparks that might burn the barn down.two pieces in the corner would be fine. I do like the Trombe wall of concrete blocks, with fan to help maximize heat recovery and distribution.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Thad in AR.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
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Posted: 2 hours 13 minutes ago at 7:04am |
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I have 2 4x8 sheets of diamond plate heavy aluminum. Oxidized and ugly. I may screw it to the walls behind the concrete blocks. Would make wifey happy if they disappeared.
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only AC orange
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Joined: 06 Dec 2014
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Posted: 48 minutes ago at 8:29am |
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hopefully your insurance company will add their blessings to your plans! I had a Warm Morning wood stove in my shop several years ago that set about 10' from walls and they made me remove it! I even had double wall flu going thru the wall.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 39 minutes ago at 8:38am |
Concrete and heat do NOT mix, too hot and moisture that REMAINS Present in Concrete will rapidly Evaporate(IE Boil), causes Spalling. Keep Distances as wide as possible for Cement based Products.
My intent here Should I EVER get wife Approval, a 1/8" Steel Pan beneath Stove we will Purchase, on Square Tube Legs 4" off floor with a Ring of either Steel Strap or Angle to Bowl the pan and for reinforcement. At least 2' Longer one foot deeper, and foot to foot and half wider both sides. The Walls surrounding the Corner where will sit will end up with a Fire Curtain of Steel or Aluminum with reinforcement at least as tall as bottom of Flue thru wall 3-6" off Walls and disassemble-able so can clean behind.
Overkill, why YES, need or necessity?? maybe not, Comfort Zone most definitely.
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Lars(wi)
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Permian Basin
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Posted: 8 minutes ago at 9:09am |
Thad in AR. wrote:
Hey guys I’m building a barrel stove. I’m actually using a large pressure tank rather than a barrel but same idea.
It’s going in a corner in my shop. I intend to dry stack concrete blocks on the wall beside it and the wall behind it.
How close do you think I can safely put it to the concrete blocks?
Has anyone ever tried an oil drip system on a wood stove?
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Is this pressure tank aluminum?
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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