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B starting problems

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Brinky View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Aug 2024
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brinky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: B starting problems
    Posted: 30 Aug 2024 at 11:02pm
Some times I pull the starter leaver and she fires straight away, most of the time I I have to turn her over and over again. I’ll drive a couple of hundred yards she’ll cut out then doesn’t like to start. The previous owner fitted new manifold and carb, plugs and leads. He could start it easily with the crank I could never get it started that way. I have tried checking the timing and it seems ok. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
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Greg (Hillsboro, OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg (Hillsboro, OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 7:02am
Is it a magneto or distributor?   6 volt or 12?  
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truckerfarmer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 7:02am
First off, welcome to the forum.

My first though is a fuel problem. If your tractor has a sediment bowl on the tank, take the bowl off and check that the screen isn't plugged. Then with the bowl off, open the valve to verify you have a good flow.
Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brinky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 7:17am
It has a magneto, I’ve only fitted a 6v starter with a 12v battery, no other electrics. I recently drained the tank and fitted a new screen in the bowl, and added fresh fuel
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 7:36am
if you can hand crank start a tractor, and the electric starter is hard to start... it can be the impulse in the magneto. Hand crank starts at ZERO rpm so the motor fires at TDC and easily starts... SPIN the motor, especially with 12v and if the impulse throw out weights do not GRAB, then the motor fires at the FIRE mark or 30 degrees before top dead center.. VERY HARD to start at that point... You may need some work done on the impulse / spring / weights / small springs on the weights inside the Mag front end..

that does not explain why it dies after 200 yards, but is a possible explaination of why it will not start when electric cranking.


Edited by steve(ill) - 31 Aug 2024 at 7:39am
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 3:01pm
Your hard starting with the starter motor is because you're using a 12V Battery. Your spinning the engine way to fast and its overriding the impulse on the Mag. Running 12 volts through a 6V Starter motor isn't a good idea. Cracked nose cones, bent or damaged drives and premature worn ring gears are a result of that practice.
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brinky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2024 at 2:44am
Thanks for the advice, I’ll order a 6v battery. What Ah is best ?
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2024 at 7:47am
My Model C doesn't like having the throttle opened very far for starting; it is happiest with the throttle set at the second or third notch.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2024 at 8:17am
It is correct that a 12v battery spins the starter faster and is probably a little harder on the starter nose and ring gear.. That being said, there are TENS OF THOUSANDS of old tractors now running 12v batteries in them without problems. Many of the "bad ring gears" and such were from WORN OUT 50 year old tractors before the 12v battery was installed. I have 6 tractors with 12v batteries and all run great. YES, they do spin faster and YES, you have to have a GOOD MAG and GOOD IMPULSE to get ANY TRACTOR to start. My main tractor starts in 1-2 revolutions of the engine...has had a 12v battery for 20 years.... starts just as it would when you did a manual crank start... really dont have time to "get up to high rpm" with the 12v starter.

Edited by steve(ill) - 01 Sep 2024 at 8:20am
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dfwallis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2024 at 11:05am
Originally posted by Brinky Brinky wrote:

Thanks for the advice, I’ll order a 6v battery. What Ah is best ?

100AH or so is common.
1952 CA13092
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Brinky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brinky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2024 at 8:06pm
So I’ve got a 6v battery, bearing in mind I have no other electrics fitted, dynamo etc, should I still have a positive earth or doesn’t it matter?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2024 at 8:25pm
most 6 volt systems were POSITIVE ground ( earth).... that being said, the starter / mag dont care.... Your amp meter may run backward..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brinky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2024 at 1:38pm
So I’ve put a 6 volt battery on, when the switch on the starter is pressed I get a lot of sparks and smoke from the switch, and the starter barely turns the engine. I bought a new switch, and that does the same. The contact on the starter seems very worn. Can that be changed ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2024 at 2:15pm
Those old mechanical switches are the worst. Talk about voltage drop! That's been the problem with those switches for years, and that's what takes the Starter motors out down the road. Low voltage. When was the last time the Starter was rebuilt? It might have some issues inside. If you have a local rebuilder, pull the unit out and let the rebuilder run through the unit and see what the problem is. It could be that its pretty tired.
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brinky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2024 at 2:27pm
Unfortunately there isn’t any repairers near me. The starter cost the equivalent of $650 USD here in the UK. I new it was a risk but didn’t really have another option
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2024 at 3:59pm
your CHEAP fix right now might be going back to the 12v battery.. twice the voltage need half of the AMPS in the system... A "weak" starter motor would do better on 12v , if you cant get it rebuilt.... You still need to FIX the  copper lug on the starter.. clean it real good.. the switch should be spring loaded off... so you put pressure to overcome the spring and mash the copper lugs together to start ... sounds like you need a little WORK in that area to get better contact.... or it could be that the starter is worn and the 6v battery just dont cut it..... try the 12v.

Edited by steve(ill) - 18 Nov 2024 at 4:01pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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