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Tom Elder 
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Joined: 06 Dec 2016
Location: Ky.
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 Topic: B overhaul
Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 4:33pm |
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Hello I am a new one here.Have 2 bs i mow with,and one is getting a overhaul by me a retired carpenter,also i am enlisting my auto mechanic neighbor and his machine shop a bit .My neighbor is a good auto mechanic of 20 or 30 years,but installing sleeves and plastic gauge is not anything he has been around.The machine shop tells me if i line bore the block,the shimming will not be needed,so i said do it.Yep going to end up with a 1500 dollar overhaul on a thousand dollar tractor.
Anyway my question right now is how to deal with the crankshaft oilwick, .Can these be bought somewhere,
Second question if the rods are checked for square ,do they require shimming on the ends?
thanks for any help Tom
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2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Ted in NE-OH
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Joined: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Austinburg OH
Points: 1703
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 4:54pm |
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Check out U tube, I'll bet you will see videos that will help.
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CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5087
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 5:56pm |
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To do away with the shims on the rods, yup more money, they will need to be re-machined to do away with them. Both the mains and rods were machined round with shims. When the shims are removed the caps set down farther and the hole is no longer round.
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Tom Elder
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Location: Ky.
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 6:06pm |
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First of all thanks,so i ask the machine shop guy to check them for round when bolted together without shims?He may already know this, not sure--Tom
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2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Tom Elder
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Location: Ky.
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 6:08pm |
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thanks Ted,
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2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 6:28pm |
 Tom Elder wrote:
First of all thanks,so i ask the machine shop guy to check them for round when bolted together without shims?He may already know this, not sure--Tom
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I am sure he does!
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CrestonM
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 6:42pm |
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I guess the point of shims was so when the bearings wore, you could just pull a shim from each bearing, and that would make the clearances tighter? Easy farmer fix?
Edited by CrestonM - 06 Dec 2016 at 6:43pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 7:18pm |
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that is correct Creston.........Tom, have your machinist test fit the rods / new bearings, to the shaft to make sure all is good BEFORE you get it back. Sometimes they line bore the crank bearings, but keep the shims on the rods. If he removes them, he should know the process.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tom Elder
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Location: Ky.
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Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 5:28am |
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You guys are a lot of help.I grew up around WC up to the time we had a D17 ,WC and b,doing various duties.
I have a b that was overhauled several years back.I have a 5 ft.side sickle on it .A lever to tilt it,a lever to adjust the height.It does lift hydraulic .Best of all I took those long rock guards off and bolted on the hesston stub guards .When a spot needs to be remowed ,it does not clog .The overhaul has a belly mower on it ,bought new about 10 years ago.
I am still asking for suggestions on the crankshaft wick .
Thanks Tom
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2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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CAL(KS)
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Location: Chapman, KS
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Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 7:49am |
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i was thinking you could have the crank threaded for a plug and do away with the wick like on a wc but if i recall the B uses a bushing not a pilot bearing?
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 7:56am |
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I normally plug the wick hole.... thread/ epoxy / JB weld ... all work.... Make sure bushing has a couple thousandths clearance and grease when you install.. Some buy an oil impregnated bushing and install....... think of older cars/ trucks , they had a bushing and no wick.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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BenGiBoy
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Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 8:48am |
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I think that the oil-wick is available from Sandy Lake, but not 100% sure. (If you decide to keep the wick, that is)
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'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
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Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 9:18am |
Tom, Listen closely to what is said above. You are getting information from some of the best mechanics I will never meet. You will be amazed with the knowledge available here. I cannot help you specifically with your questions on shims. However, I do remember my father taking an afternoon to school me on how to shim the crankshaft. We used to check with plastigage, used the required shims and it worked very well. In any event thank you for all you are doing to keep my favorite Allis Chalmers Tractor alive and well. Take good care of my favorite. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long
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Tom Elder
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Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 1:12pm |
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The machine shop guy knew it all along about how to fix the rods,i guess when he told me i was not listening good.Thanks all.
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2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Norm Meinert
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Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 9:43pm |
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I have a new oil wick if you need one.
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SteveC(NS)
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 6:54am |
I still have the new wick I bought years ago. There reason I have it is because I couldn't find a way to install it. I have since done several rebuilds by plugging the wick hole and using an oilite bushing.
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Tom Elder
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 11:36am |
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Thanks Norm and Steve,not sure which way i will go ,but since the topic is at hand,Steve where do you get the correct size oil lite bushing?i have the size ,but not a dealer==Tom
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2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 11:57am |
My neighbor is a good auto mechanic of 20 or 30 years,but installing sleeves and plastic gauge is not anything he has been around. In terms of rebuilds, Sleeves and plastigauge are not unusual... but the reason he may not be familiar, is because most of the automotive stuff he'd have worked on, was more disposable than rebuildable... These engines were designed and intended to get an in-frame overhaul in under 8 hours by two farmers in a dusty barn, using hand-tools... with those shims in there, you could've probably slapped in a new set of sleeves, pistons, rings, bearing inserts and gaskets, and been back to the field for another 20 years... ...but a trip to the machine shop is not an unworthy honor for your project... and it's certainly a special treat for the machine shop guy... boil a block, line bore a crank, and check sleeve protrusion... and he's done... Allis-Chalmers was known by 'us' as a farm-tractor manufacturer, but they were actually a manufacturer of large power generation and transmission equipment... they cast 150lb tractor engine blocks from the high-quality iron left over from pouring end bells for 350,000lb electric generators and turbines... they struck the molds, and whatever wound up being bad, they simply put back in the pot for the next melting session... sent the good castings on for production. The real gem of their work, was INDUSTRIAL engineering... figuring out how to make the parts to create the greatest result, with the least amount of input effort... the best fitment, with the least amount of required precision... and finally, the easiest assembly and rebuild, without the need for extensive re-machining. They're just plain cool. 
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 3:10pm |
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You could have the shop chuck the flywheel up in a lathe to make a clean up cut on the working face, and while at it, bore the bushing hole out to fit a sealed bearing.
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Tom Elder
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Location: Ky.
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 3:46pm |
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As far as allis history i have a big book upstairs that goes in depth.CW Wendell or something like that ,is the writer.thanks
Good idea on the clutch,i will do that as soon as i win the lottery.ha ha
I also have the nebraska test book,that is a fun read
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2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 8:31pm |
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If you are doing a complete OH of the engine, it needs a new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing for another $100 or so from Rick. Then you really NEED to resurface the flywheel. So boring for a bearing might take another 15 minutes of machine time since it's set up already.
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