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B oil pan |
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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Posted: 28 Mar 2019 at 8:19am |
Hey
How on earth do I get this bloody oil pan off? |
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Gerald J.
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Shop and operator's manuals should help:
http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/BMilitary.pdf Gerald J. |
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Dick L
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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When all the bolts are out turn it corner ways holding it up as you turn it to miss the front pivot bolt head. That will get most. I have had a pan when measured corner to corner is longer than most. On those I loosened the wishbone nut under the torque tube about a half inch or slightly more making sure the nut is not off the threads. I jacked the tractor at that place under the torque tube to just remover the weight from the tires. I loosened the nuts that holds the front to the engine block without removing the nuts. I pried the front forward and the larger pan cleared the pivot nut.
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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I can get it to drop at the front by about 2 inch but I just can’t do the corner to corner twisting without it catching. I really don’t want to have to do anything to the front end. I’ll have another go tomorrow.
I must have spent about an hour trying to wiggle it out with no joy today. Any more tips or any methods at all that have worked would be great to here. Thanks Dick |
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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I’m struggling to make sense of the corner to corner also.
Every single bolt is out. It drops on the front on to the front axel pin. I can wobble it and get it about 2 inch out at the front on either side but can’t seen to get past that point |
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BEK
Silver Level Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wilmington, NC Points: 216 |
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I had to wiggle my pan out from under my B. It's a tight fit between the front end and bell housing. But, it can be done. If I remember correctly, keeping the pan parallel with the engine block, twist it so one the corners slides back into bell housing just below the fly wheel. You should then be able to clear the front end and lower the pan out.
The fun starts when you put it back together. You need to keep the new gasket aligned with all those bolt holes. I used a couple of drops of Permatex between the pan and the gasket. Not as a sealer but more as a little adhesive to hold the new gasket in place as I worked it into position. Almost three years later and no leaks. Now that you are good at being upside down playing with pans, bolts, oil, and gaskets; time to service those final drives. Good luck! |
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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Thanks BEK
Final drives are on the list |
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Dick L
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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You don't want to drop it down while turning it. It needs to be held up to the block. Like I stated some pans were larger corner to corner. This is not the best picture but with the camera angle you can not see the bottom pan as you should at that angle. |
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festus51
Orange Level Access Joined: 26 Mar 2017 Location: Osage City, KS Points: 1639 |
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One trick I learned back in the 60's to keep the gasket in place is to use a small string and loop it thru the holes in gasket and oil pan. Once you get it in place cut and pull strings out one by one
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We the unwilling Led by the unqualified Doing the impossible for the Ungrateful
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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Thanks for all the help.
I was trying for an age to get that man out. No way was it coming not for me anyway. So In the end I removed the nose cons and slacked some bolts then slacked the castellated nut of underneath the bell housing which gave me enough plan to eventually get the bugger out |
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