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B engine3 rebuild problems.

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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 3:52pm
I still think its a rod bearing issue but i have heard of the wrong depth of ring being sent for the piston suplied . a 350 kit came with shallow grove pistons and deep  grove rings once.

Edited by mlpankey - 01 Apr 2010 at 3:53pm
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 7:19pm

When I rebuilt my CA 10 + years ago, I ran into a problem with the main bearing bores. The bearings all showed .002 with plastigauge, but the crank would not turn with the caps tight. Having the block line bored fixed that problem. Another thought that comes to mind is connecting rod bearing bores. If the rod bearing bores are not true, that might contribute to the bearings showing .002 clearance on one side but still be tight. None of the rods are bent or twisted are they? Doesn't take much bend or twist to interfere.

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:18pm
he said he had to pound the pistons thru the liners--- the liners are obviously out of round and the main problem. Besides that, they are bored oversize.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote joegrgraham Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2010 at 3:03pm
I've found the problem!!! The liners were out of round, due to a previously un-noticed crack in the webbing between cylinders 1 and 2, which was distorting everything.
Luckily, I've got a spare block. 
In my defence, this is the first engine I've ever done, it's a hell of a steep learning curve, and I'm pretty much making it up as I go along!, but, thanks to everyone who's posted on this thread, I've learnt a lot of good tips and information, so hopefully, I should get it right this time. Thanks again everyone.
If it seems like a good idea, do it. It's easier to apologise than to get permission.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2010 at 3:20pm

I would put one piston in at a time till problem occured, check to see if wrist pins contacting sleeves.  Crank reground? did they get journals true to center line? If not the rods get really side stressed.  Just a few thoughts. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2010 at 8:43pm
If the cracks are at the top of the block, they will not hurt or cause any problems.
About 80% of the blocks are cracked between the web at the top. It can't distort the sleeves and will seal when the head gasket is installed.Bob
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2010 at 11:56pm
Nope, You didn't find your problem due to cracks. No way crack could cause it. If the sleeves are not out of round after they have been removed then the only thing that could cause that would be to drive them down into and out of round hole at the bottom.
As I have stated many times and in this thread that the sleeve need to be able to be placed in the block and turned 360 degrees by hand. Fitting sleeves new or old in a used block takes time and care. The extra time taken to the little details will save much heartache as well as time from do overs.  

I use an air die grinder but an electric drill will work as well. I use a sanding flapper and keep checking the fit as I work. I use wire wheels to remove the scale also.







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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2010 at 12:52pm
Just for food for thought and maybe for conversation I looked up some stuff on piston cylinder wall clearance for Porsche and found this.


[I just had my 95 bored to 98 and the spec sheet shows .0015 for the J&E pistons, so the cylinders are that much larger than the pistons, not .003, is that what your looking for?]

One piston manufacture called for a clearance of .0008 in a Porsche engine. Yes a little less than one thousands.

I had a machinery salesman in several years ago that quoted the clearances that was used in nascar. I can not remember what he quoted and have not found it yet on the internet. He has sold the CNC machines that were used to machine fit the heads to each already installed piston.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2010 at 4:54pm
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:

Just for food for thought and maybe for conversation I looked up some stuff on piston cylinder wall clearance for Porsche and found this.


[I just had my 95 bored to 98 and the spec sheet shows .0015 for the J&E pistons, so the cylinders are that much larger than the pistons, not .003, is that what your looking for?]

One piston manufacture called for a clearance of .0008 in a Porsche engine. Yes a little less than one thousands.

I had a machinery salesman in several years ago that quoted the clearances that was used in nascar. I can not remember what he quoted and have not found it yet on the internet. He has sold the CNC machines that were used to machine fit the heads to each already installed piston.
No dick this is what is was thinking of. I confused it with promod clearances which are not stated but are even more for the 1600 horse shot of nitrous or the 14-71 blowers.   http://www.jepistons.com/PDFs/TechCorner/SCPDrawings/piston_instrc2618.pdf
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2010 at 10:46pm
a rule of thumb use to be .001 inch clearance per inch of bore diameter... maybe not exact, but thats a pretty good place to start.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2010 at 10:51pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

a rule of thumb use to be .001 inch clearance per inch of bore diameter... maybe not exact, but thats a pretty good place to start.
  Best thing to do is use the manufacture of a products sugestions for they know the materials compistition and how it expands and contracts to heat . I personally use J@e pistons but I used total seal rings . My bore gets what J@e wants for clearance my rings get gapped to what total seal recomends for ring gap. the promblem with kits is most the time you dont get the vendors recommendations for each piece.
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