Are any replacement B rims galvanized for rear?

painted

john, there is a Rustoleum "antique aluminum" that looks pretty good on the rims, if you want to paint them.

Cool, I'll use that. It will look better than just plain silver paint.

You 'used' to buy 'galvanized' primer at one time...maybe someone still makes it ?
Whatever you paint with, if you can wait a MONTH, let the paint get good and hard on the rims BEFORE you re-tire them. The longer you can wait, the tougher they'll be.

Jay

All my restored or new rims are finish painted with a brush using a mixture of black gloss enamel and brite rustoleum aluminum paint mixed to the color of older galvanized steel. Try it you may like it.

Found this, looks like it would work.http://www.zrcworldwide.com/index.php/products/zrc-galvilite

I worked a Government steel painting speck paint job in Fort Worth 40 years ago where we actually sprayed zink dust suspended in a fast drying colorless liquid that required continious agitation to keep the heavy zink dust in suspention in our spray equipment. What was required was a dry coat of zinc on the steel of a certain mill thickness to prevent rust. The product name was ZINK-IT. Came only in Gallon buckets. Vary heavy like a old bucket of Dutch Boy White Lead.
. It was special ordered thru a electrical supply company. The product was called a cold galvanizing process.
Looked like flat gray paint when dry. If you rubbed it with steel wool enough it would shine up a little bit.
Horrible stuff to work with keeping it flowing in spray equipment.. Tried brushing it once. It could be done but only with lots of practice.

Guess links do not work here either LOL, I can't post pics either. Must be an Apple IOS thing.

Scenario: Can't/wont re-hot dip, but you want some zinc for corrosion protection.
So you decide to try a high zinc content "cold galvanize" primer.

For the most part, oil based primers or topcoats will not stick to zinc for long.
The zinc reacts with the oil based coating and it peels off in a few years. Look around town at painted-over galvanized railings and guardrails, corrugated roofs. You probably have seen this. This applies to plated zinc, hot dip ,thermal spray and the cold galvanize sprays. So the situation at Home Depot or whomever, there is the tall spray can of cold
galvanized spray right next to their oil based primers and paints. This is a failure combo.

The cold galvanize spray does not look that pretty and you do want to top coat it.
I have not tried to buff it up, but none of them shine when dry like a new 2 gallon galvanized bucket.

Compatible materials over zinc and zinc type primers include latex primer/paint, two part epoxy primers, two part urethane primers. Then topcoat with whatever is compatible with that. Three layers, whew, ya sure you want zinc?

I am experimenting with zinc spray (ZincBrite) on a rim, top coated with VHT Wheel Paint. Two layers. The VHT Wheel Paint is a "polyurethane" type paint. I used Ford Argent Silver. With luck that polyurethane wheel paint will stick to the zinc primer. 1.5 years now and holding on well. Use their wheel paint, not their hi temp engine enamels. Color choices are limited. But the wheel paint can be top coated with anything.
If I remember, I will report back at the 5 year mark.

Not as ugly as cold zinc sprays are aluminum bearing moisture-cured polyurethane primers. Not available in rattle cans. Easy to find brands are Master Coat and Rust Bullet. This is OK looking as a one layer process. Need 2-3 coats however. Read the Rust-Bullet tests. I think they are claiming the aluminum provides some zinc-like galvanic protection to scratches.   These can be top coated with "anything". However it won't adhere unless you scuff it up, use the Rust Bullet etcher, or you top coat right after the prime, like in a 4 hour window.  You need top notch breathing protection for these in my opinion.

Another option. When my sandblaster broke I took the rim to a finishing shop for blasting. They said they could thermal spray zinc-aluminum alloy for I think $50 per rim (12 x28's). This would come out looking rough, like a hot dip lag bolt. I didn't do it as other rim was already painted silver.

The bright zinc galvanized coating I found online looks like a doable solution, the clear over aluminum works real good also. I agree that blasting is the best method regardless of the base finish, even it you just scuff it and do not go down to white metal. I have used a galvanized etching primer for our shed and corn crib roofs and has held up well for 15 years with no peeling in the hot sun and snow. I have top coated it once as the hunter green started to fade after 8 years of cooking in the UV light. I know what you mean about peeling as I have seen bad paint paint jobs on tractor rims at shows and did duct work for a living for many years. Factories and people with exposed duct in basements love to spray or roll latex over their galvanized metal, it falls off like plastic wrap LOL.