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nowaktj 
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Joined: 13 Dec 2009
Location: Elk River, MN
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 Topic: Antifreeze in the oil-C tractor
Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 5:15am |
Hi guys-I bought this tractor not running w/an indication that something was wrong since the dipstick showed 1" higher than normal oil level. So, I drained the oil and antifreeze came out for 10 seconds. I pulled the valve cover to look for a soft plug that was rotted through but found none. I have now pulled the head and it looks like #1 piston has been "washed" with antifreeze. I cleaned the #1 head combustion chamber and didn't see any obvious cracks. Did I simply have a bad head gasket? I didn't see any glaring defects in looking at it. I did notice on several of the sleeves that on one side they are definitely protruding from the block but the other side they seem flush with the block at best. Please let me know your thoughts...thanks! Terry
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D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 5:53am |
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I think you're looking in the right places. If you're lucky, it will be a freeze plug on top of the head. Otherwise, it is likely a sleeve seal has failed. Not a bad job to correct, but it does require pulling the sleeves.
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
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Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 6:05am |
 nowaktj wrote:
I did notice on several of the sleeves that on one side they are definitely protruding from the block but the other side they seem flush with the block at best. Please let me know your thoughts...thanks! Terry |
This seems odd. Take a straight edge and check the block for warping. Look real close at the head gasket as see if there are any signs of antifreeze seeping past at the cylinders. It's almost as if someone machined the block and screwed it up.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 6:25am |
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Make a spacer and try to press the liners into their bores, if one is protruding and another not the one not will not seal. Will need to pull all of them and see if the block has a liner lip issue or just needs correct shimming to place all the liners to the correct height for adequate head gasket sealing.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 7:19am |
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The sleeve shoulder HAS to protrude .002 to .004 above the deck. If they aren't , the head gasket can't do it's job.
I wouldn't try pressing on the sleeve without removing and cleaning first. They are a slip fit and have to have the bottom of the shoulder and the counter bore in the deck Clean and free of burrs to seat right.
A decent straight edge could tell you a lot here. You can measure the protrusion by placing it across the sleeve and sliding a feeler gauge between the deck and the straight edge.
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 3:41pm |
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If the sleeves are not even above the block check real close around the inside of the sleeve about an eighth inch. I think you will find a crack. When the bottom is not properly cleaned and the sleeve does not fit loose at the bottom it can be in a cocked position and have a gap on one side of the top lip. Since sleeves are cast iron and not flexible and the head is torqued down the lip tries to seat in the block and will crack.
I bought a non running tractor years ago that had a sleeve cracked at the top leaking fluid.
Probly rebuilt by someone that does not know the difference in how to install wet or dry sleeves. Dry sleeves are frozen and pressed in. Dry sleeves are fit loose with both block and sleeves at room temperature so you can turn them by hand 360º when all the way down and sealed with O rings when installing after they are fit to the hole.
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Dick L
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Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 3:48pm |
CTuckerNWIL wrote:
The sleeve shoulder HAS to protrude .002 to .004 above the deck. If they aren't , the head gasket can't do it's job.
I wouldn't try pressing on the sleeve without removing and cleaning first. They are a slip fit and have to have the bottom of the shoulder and the counter bore in the deck Clean and free of burrs to seat right.
A decent straight edge could tell you a lot here. You can measure the protrusion by placing it across the sleeve and sliding a feeler gauge between the deck and the straight edge.
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The book calls for the sleeve to be above the deck. I had the sleeves in my pulling C cemented in and decked the block flush. I used a standard head gasket and it held fine with the high compression. Rebuilding without checking with a dial indicator it would be easier to know they were a tad high than look flush and be a tad low.
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nowaktj
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Joined: 13 Dec 2009
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Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 7:24pm |
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I got around to checking and number one cylinder's sleeve is sticking out on the left hand side less than 0.001". All of the sleeves are bad on the left hand side but number one is the worst of the group.
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D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G
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DougS
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Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 5:04am |
That still leads me to believe they milled the block and didn't have it squared in straight.
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 6:05am |
DougS wrote:
That still leads me to believe they milled the block and didn't have it squared in straight. |
Pulling the sleeves and checking the depth around the rim with a depth mic will let him know if that is the problem. However if the block was milled with recutting the recessed rim it would be hard for the sleeve sink even or below the top of the block. One thing for sure it was not rebuilt by a detail oriented individual and needs to be disassembled with all points measured for proper specs.
Edited by Dick L - 16 Nov 2017 at 6:16am
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