Antifreeze in Oil on 8050 Help

Dad and I have a lot of decisions to make and need some help from you guys.  I pulled the drain plug on the 8050 to change the oil and about a thimble full of antifreeze ran out first.  Then i notice that there was moisture below the bypass tube and it was green and sticky.  It hasn't been using coolant and the oil wasn't milkey.  It's got right at 4000 hours and has never been apart.  So, there are two questions right away.

We talked to two neighbors that are diesel mechanics, they told us to run straight water with bars leaks because the water won't spin the bearings.  They both guessed a head gasket but said if it was a liner we would know in about 20 hours. 

1st question.  would you run water and try to make it through planting and pray that we don't spin a bearing or tear it apart now and hope we get it back together in time?  We could get the crops in with about 50 hours of running time on that tractor. 

If and when we rebuild, what would you do at that time.  I have heard about the M&w pistons that make it start better.   would you rebuild the pump/injectors at that time, it runs fine now.  what about the turbo, it's easy to change but is original.  I know there are a lot of aftermarket parts for these engines now.  we're open to change but don't need extra power and not willing to sacrifice reliability for an extra 10 hp.

We have a lot of experience rebuilding engines but this is our first time in a 426.  any help is appreciated.

Derek in Mo

HMMM....sure thing is tear down now but since it seems to be recent leak,may be little to no damage to brgs which would allow you to run straight water without fear.I don't know how much a 426 can tolerate.My 3406 Cat ran a full day with over a gallon of antifreeze in the oil and you couldn't see brg trouble at teardown.(9 gal sump) It's a gamble no doubt.You would love the M&W style pistons but they are expensive.The fuel system and turbo can be tended to any time later with little trouble but I like to have rods resized with new bushings honed to fit the new wrist pins and replace all valves with quality new ones.Valve height is important and needs to be in spec.Good to plane the head for flatness too.It all adds up and some question doing the extras but I only want to do it once.I put the new AGCO rod bolts in also even though some claim the originals aren't a problem.ARP built the new ones.

Reliance price sounds high but it's reasonable.They put an inline A pump on.I did basically what they do and didn't save any money plus took way more time.

wekracer wrote: .....if i can make it through planting, i can take my time and do it right.

i would tear it down and get a new head gasket put in it. like others have said so what if you have to plant a few days later. its just good insurance to get it done now and out of the way. last thing you will need while planting is another item on your mind worrying if your engine is going to hold up and not take a crap on you. like others have said the injectors and turbo are items that you can do later. when you have the engine apart you can check the turbo your self. reach in with your finger and spin the turbo blades they should spin very nice and smooth. also you can check to see if the bearings are bad by trying to move the blades up and down.

I agree with CMS, those tractors are notorious for liner cavitation.  Craig

Matt MN wrote: It does sound like a small amount of antifreeze that you found. Pesonally I would fill it up with water and run it, and like they said check for water in the oil every morning, I suppose you could also drop the pan now and check a couple of bearings to see if they are pitted? Also Since GM went to the Dexcool orange antifreeze they have not had any bearing failures associated with antifreeze. it is much safer on bearings.

While you have the pan off, rent or borrow a cooling system pressure tester and pressurize the system. See if you can pinpoint where the water is coming through. (liner o-rings, cavitated liners, maybe dripping from head gasket, perhaps the intercooler?) Personally, I would tear into it now. We both know you will be in it soon anyway. Just as well try to save what you can. What about a salvage yard engine in it until planting is done? Maybe it will burn some oil or be hard to start, but at least you will be saving your better engine to rebuild. 

cms wrote: You most likely have the sleave leaking around the bottom of the block. This is very common on the ac since they dont have a coolant filter.

My memory may be bad, but I thought coolant conditioners/filters were put on the inter-cooled engines in the 8000's.  It was also important to change them per the operating instructions or cavitation erosion would happen.


Edited by 427435 - 12 Apr 2011 at 2:02pm

I maybe wrong but i think the 8050 had a water filter on it. I know the 8050 we bought new had a water filter on it.

Why not park the 8050 in the shed and go buy a good older 7060 to run your planter?  When you're done planting/sidedressing&whatever else, sell the 7060.  In the meantime, you could be rebuilding the 8050. 

hello everyone, this is my first post here