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An update on my f150 no start

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bobkyllo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobkyllo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: An update on my f150 no start
    Posted: 15 Mar 2020 at 8:39pm
So first off I have to say this customer has been excellent to work with. I'm still trying to get this truck to start. It's been on the back burner the last two weeks with me being ill.

Any way I got back to it today. I studied a wire diagram a bit more and thought hey why not bypass the relay that Ford installed that I can't service. So I did just that I put a power wire at the connector that comes out of the fues box. It's at this point that the fuel pump circuit starts. No luck.

I then went to the fuel pump and found I no longer have power there. If you remember I did have power earlier hence the reason for the fuel pump change.

So back to the fuse box to confirm power. And yes there is 13 volts (battery charger is hooked up to eliminate low battery).

Well the next easiest thing to check would be the fuel pump driver. No problem. I unplug the connector. I have continuity for the ground. I also have 13 volts on the power coming in wire. Hmmm do I not have power making it through the driver?

So I got out my wire piercing probes. Hooked one in to the wire that feeds the fuel pump. Plugged the connector in... No power. Ah ha no power is making it through the driver. So I thought I best check my power from the fuse box wire. So I hooked my other wire probe into that wire and... No power. GRRRRR WHAT THE HECK. I just had power there. I unplugged the connector and my fuse panel power come back. Once I plug the driver back in I loose the power.

So my question is guys do you think I have a bad driver even though it's new. It's a dorman brand and a few people tell me to get Ford parts.

Could I have a relay that can't handle the load once I plug the driver in and is tripping so to speak?

If the driver was shorted to ground would my multimeter show that as 0 volts on the fuse box wire?

The plug on the driver has 6 wires. You have power in, a ground, power going to pump, power coming back from pump, and 2 wires from the computer that control the speed of the pump hence maintaining your fuel pressure.
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Stan IL&TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2020 at 11:35pm
Never heard of a fuel pump driver before but then again I know that names for components change with the wind.
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desertjoe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 3:47am

 Well,,BobKYllo,,,I been rooting for you on fixin that trk,,,I'm like ole Stan,,,,what or which is the fuel pump driver???Wink
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 6:04am
I'm looking at the wiring for my '97 there there ain't no 'driver'..post what year/engine yours is. I KNOW ford changes 'stuff' year to year..... ONLY '97 radios fit/connect into my ride....


yeesh SEVEN wires for me !!! 3 for fuel tank pressure, 2 power to pump, 2 to dash/puter.
pnk/blk appears to be power(+12) to pump..from inertia switch from fuelpump relay, from power dist. box......that should have solid +12 when key is 'on'. blk is ground


Jay


Edited by jaybmiller - 16 Mar 2020 at 6:57am
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cabinhollow View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cabinhollow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 6:08am
"2 wires from the computer that control the speed of the pump"
This is what I would checkout.
When you unplug it, it could be resetting, then when plugged back in, it is tripping a relay in the computer. Could be something to do with the fuel safety shutoff.
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bobkyllo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobkyllo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 9:36am
2006 Ford f150 it's an electronic returnless fuel injection.

The computer gets info from the fuel pressure sensor as to how much pressure there is. It then send a signal to the driver to tell it to either speed up or slow down.

But at key on I'd think it would want full flow to prime the system
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john(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 5:33pm
If it was shorted to ground I think it would blow a fuse.  If you want to be sure, remove it from wherever it's mounted.  That would probably your path to ground.  Get a couple of jumper wires and jumper the power in to the power out to the pump to see if it works.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 5:52pm
Instead of a meter, connect a tail light bulb that will pull a couple amps to the power INTO the driver module and see if it lights..remember, you only get 3 seconds of power when you turn the key ON. ( or 3 seconds of GROUND ??)... then maybe jumper  from the POWER in to POWER OUT and see if you can make the pump run  for 3 seconds.......... again, when you turn the key to ON, it should run for 3 seconds.... i guess that dont happen ? You need to determine if power is getting thru the module at some load, ( or GROUND is being made up)  and if you can power the pump and make it run..

FYI --- older FORD trucks had a regulator or pressure relief in the fuel line at the motor that would DUMP excess fuel back to the tank.... starting in 2005, they eliminated the DUMP and  installed a PRESSURE MODULE that the computer monitors the pressure in the fuel rail and turns the pump on and off as needed...... Bob........ i think you know this, others may not.


Edited by steve(ill) - 16 Mar 2020 at 6:04pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 5:58pm
again, remember during your checks... You only get power for 3 SECONDS when you turn the key to the ON position... then the computer shuts it off until the motor starts.

im not sure , but the "POWER" may be constant and the ON- OFF is the ground inside the computer.. You might have power at the Module constantly .... if it is cycling the GROUND.


Edited by steve(ill) - 16 Mar 2020 at 6:01pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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bobkyllo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobkyllo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 7:37pm
Steve, I believe you're correct on the ground being only 3 seconds. I've got power continuously.

I will put together a light bulb in my circuit to load test it. My only trouble is finding a way to introduce the light into the system. My first thought is just chop the harness apart but I am going to hold off as I don't want to cause more trouble.

I plan to use the light at the driver. But that won't tell me if my relay is bad or if I have a bad wire some place.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 8:21pm
the light at the driver will tell you if you have constant power ( with your other lead to GROUND)... If you do, then you need to connect to the pump and see if it will run... or if the problem is NO GROUND ( possibly from computer?) .......... now if there is NO POWER at the driver then YEA.... your looking at the relay or the wiring.

If you have power continuously, then the SWITCH is in the ground side. ... still need to verify if PUMP will run when power and ground are connected.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2020 at 8:24pm
son has a 2010 truck and pump stopped working... squirrel got on top of the tank and ate the wire in two !!
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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