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Allis F40 fork lift

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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2020 at 9:59am
Folks,
 Ok i ran out of things on the short list. Well after making out some as always late Christmas cards!
And the forklift loomed up in front of me. 
Pulled off the air cleaner, hose and propane orifice ring assembly. Then came in to warm up and eat Christmas cookies and coffee. Yea this retirement stuff is rough! Oh yea fixed the licence plate light I stepped on and broke a couple months ago. O-Riley had the matching lens cover just like the original equipment lens.
I digress and am distracted with cookies too!
Next I will pull the propane regulator off and connect the water line together. That sounds like a trip to NAPA for some fittings?
Then the carb can come back off and the rebuild will start. Good news is that I believe that it can be saved. And should be able to run on pump gas someday too. And it is relatively clean from the prior adventures. Pictures you ask? Be careful what you wish for!
I guess this was just one of those warning threads to allow you to get coffee and settle in!
 Regards,
 Chris 


Edited by Sugarmaker - 21 Dec 2020 at 10:01am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hd1937 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2020 at 12:19pm
Do those Christmas cookies come with retirement automatically or do you have to make your own?
Just asking to figure out this retirement thingπŸŽ„πŸΊπŸ₯πŸͺπŸ˜‹
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2020 at 3:19pm
Jim,
 I think you have to make your own! Congratulations on your retirement!
On the fork lift: Well failure again.
Took the carb off. Did my best job of rebuild put gas parts in. Put it on and got a little sputter from the engine.  
Now I have never had a carb like this apart before. it has a vacuum diaphragm on the bottom. Had parts I was not familiar with so I called the guy I got the kit from. I am sure he is a good carb guy. But I doubt I will bother him about carbs again. Some folks want to help some just talk down to you. He would not be high on my recommendation list for carb work or information.
Humm Next moves on the forklift?? I dont know? 
Lets see good news is its not froze up. Seems to have some spark with the old HF in line tester. Gas is getting to carb.  Actually may be flooding a little? 
Added the trial tank:

water bypass hose added:

Carb:


Right now it looks better than it works! Carbs can be a challange! This one may not be correct in some small way.
Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 21 Dec 2020 at 3:25pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2020 at 5:35pm
Did I hear a request?Wink

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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2020 at 8:13pm
Dave,
 Thanks! Yes just ate more for supper too!
Daughter and Granddaughter last night!

Took the carb apart again. Found that I forgot the power valve. And I replaced a small brass valve in the carb base next to the power valve. Part of the fuel pump?? A real pain!

It wasnt pretty:

I found one of the very small holes in the carb throat to be plugged. I think I got that opened. Installed the carb and got about the same results. No start um! Humm. I have spark, May still have a fuel flow issue? But it doesnt want to even try. Will sleep on this.

Wires, Champion plugs, rotor, cap, points, condenser all could be changed. But Was trying to get it to even give a healthy try to start, before I did a tune up and spent another $100 on this forklift! I did take out all the plugs and cleaned them up. No change.


Regards,
 Chris




D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote JohnColo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2020 at 12:34am
Have you tried giving it a little snort of either?  If it doesn't fire on that, it could be valves.  Oh yeah, did you put some oil in each cylinder to help seal the rings and build compression?  I have confidence you will get her running before Christmas, unless you spend too much time in the kitchen eating cookies...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2020 at 7:31am
John, Construction folks,
So I think I might check the valves too. I thought of that. And no I did not squirt oil in the cylinders. It has set for a while so I guess they could be pretty dry. 
I did try some either and really did not get any wounderful starting 
What do folks think of doing a complete tune up when you have a pretty good sparky through the in line spark tester on each old plug?
Yea it sure looks like it needs freshened but using the theory that sparky gas and compression it should run? Well I need go check fuel and compression again.
Also have a GreatGrandson who at 5 is smarter than all of us! Well that's his view!Smile
Yes more cookies too! Cheryl made some molasses ones and they are awesome.
Regards,
Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2020 at 8:36am
I'm with John(colo) , 2 whiffs of ether see if it wants to start..
When I got 'Troy', I used a squirt bottle of gas to test. With just the right timing and amount of  squirts I could 'play carburator' and deliver a nice mist of gas/air into the carb intake. I ran it for 5 minutes( got tired of squeezing the trigger) BUT it did prove the point... engine would RUN, carb needed cleaning..... Gave me the incentive to tear carb off, all apart and it's worked fine ever since....

Jay
BTW I'm hungry for cookies now....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tadams(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2020 at 3:04pm
Do you have a carb off of a WD or something that you could stick and give it a try??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2020 at 6:25pm
Folks,
So the ether was not doing the trick. Back to basics. Gas (fuel) Sparky, and compression needed for it to run. Right?
I checked out a WD carb but it does not have a big enough bolt spacing. This is bigger carb body.
I did spray some oil in the cylinders. No helpy!
1.  Have a good amount of gas flowing when I open a lower plug on the carb bowl.
2. Checked sparky again, yes points have spark and the inline tester shows spark on all plugs.
3. I dreaded pulling the valve cover! It had 1/2 inch of caked grease, all over it!
 SO instead I did a poor mans compression test. took a plug out and put my finger over the spark plug hole and hit the key. Holes 1 and 3 had compression. Holes 2 and 4 had very little compression. Humm? Phoned a friend (Ted the Allis Guy) He said maybe a stuck valve?
I digress: In all the years of working on engines I don't remember ever having a stuck valve. 
Pulled off the valve cover, Removed the rocker arm assembly and looked for low valve height compared to the others.  Set a straight edge across the top of the valves as a reference:


Yep cylinder #4 both the intake (last valve on right) and the exhaust valve had gaps exceeding .050 inch. Yea its not very clean in there. Some oil sludge from 1972!

The rest were zero to  .015 inches max gap, So we have found a issue. Two stuck valves. Cylinder #2 seemed to be ok. I used a air nozzle into the spark plug hole, generous amounts of blaster around the valve spring, and a gentle pry from a wooden pry on top of the valves, working them up and down. Several attempts at this crude process and the valves popped up. Maybe the air pressure blew something out from under the valve seats, maybe the blaster worked its magic, maybe the Allis gods were kind to me?:)

 As Ted describe it: Air from the piston in this this stuck valve cylinder was being pushed backward through the intake manifold and into the carb. Keeping fuel from being sucked into the engine. Therefore not full compression in all cylinders.

I spent a hour cleaning up the valve cover, just couldn't put it back on like that! Valve cover gasket was shot. Someone had been in there as I found a big red gob of gasket sealer where a piece of the gasket was missing!

Called Brenda at Sandy lake and ordered a new valve cover gasket. She said it was the same as a D15D I think. 

So Spun this puppy over, applied some choke and she shuddered and fired up! Massive amounts of white smoke and a cloud of dust. This happened several time for about 5 seconds each time. Ted suggested more choke and good battery charger to help. Tried That and each time she fired right up. No air cleaner in place so the choke had to be used some to keep it running.
Whoooooohooooooo! 

Always good to get something running that has issues! Thanks for the support. Maybe a tune up will be in order at some point too. There is no high speed adjustment on this carb just a idle screw. and idle adjustment for the throttle shaft.
After running for several minutes a lot of oil was spilling over the edge of the head and running down the block. 
I did not adjust the valves either cold or hot. So that may be on the list of things to do before the valve cover goes on for good someday.
Question? How do folks roll the engine over easily to set the valves? On a WD I use the hand crank and turn each piston into position to adjust the valves. No hand crank on this.

Regards,
 Chris




Edited by Sugarmaker - 22 Dec 2020 at 9:44pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2020 at 8:50pm
Congratulations Chris!! This is the day we've all been waiting for. This will give you a new spring in your step and you will enjoy those great cookies even more Clap
Have a very Merry Christmas!
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2020 at 9:33pm
Eric,
 Thanks! Yes when I heard it pop I was pleased that the carb work seemed to be ok! Glad I had the help to walk me through the no compression issue! It was much more clear why this was not going to run as it was. So why did the valves hang up? Don't know? It had set for a couple years. 
Strange things can happen when these are old pieces set idle for a long time!
Now I need someone to show me how to operate a forklift!
Ted said he has a original operators manual for one of these units. That may help too.
Have to research the master cylinder also. I would like to have brakes.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnColo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 1:41am
I knew it would happen!  Great news, now for the little things to get it working properly, Good work, Chris!
I can see some more concrete being poured next summer...



Edited by JohnColo - 23 Dec 2020 at 1:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 5:44am
Christmas came early for you !!!!! woohoo !!!!
There is NOTHING more exciting than hearing you GOT IT RUNNING !!!
 I used a smearing of grey Locktite 'gasket maker' on both sides of the cork when I replaced my 'modified' valvecover on the forklift. I figured ANY leaking oil would easily show up on, so far so good !
As for operatiing it, go slow  on all the controls and never,ever try to drive it on 'hard' dirt.
but... have FUN, you deserve it !!
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 8:13am
Congrats on getting her running. I got my valve cover and grommets at forkliftpartssupply.com. $22.00 for every thing. Master cylinder I purchased from NAPA, p/n M3081.
Good luck
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 8:20am
Snowman,
(You any relation to that Shameless dude??? Seems odd with his 'pretty' and all) Humm??Smile)
I forgot about the valve cover grommets. Thanks for the reminder. That price seems good on the gasket. Will see what Sandy Lake has for pricing, Brenda was checking on Air cleaner hose. I will check on the master cylinder at NAPA too. 
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 8:30am
Snowman, Folks,
 Checked with NAPA on the master cylinder $108 new no core.
The forkliftparts supply site is not easy to navigate? Could be just me? Might have to call them?
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 8:32am
I have a brandenewinbox master here.(think they're all the same...).too bad we're in 'lockdown' here, sigh
I'd trade for some cookies....sniff,sniff
Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 1:29pm
Chris, there is a very good chance that if you take that old master cylinder apart and clean all the parts really well including the rubber cups. Use a wheel cylinder hone in the barrel, apply a thin film of vaseline in there before you reassemble, you will have it working really well. Bench bleed it before you reinstall. I know a mechanic that has done this to a number of master cylinders and had them work well for several years after.
As for those stuck valves... given the sludge under the valve cover, that's the 'lubricant/glue' between the guides and valve stems that made them stuck from sitting unused for years. Penetrating oil on all the valves down the guides, will keep them freed up along with an oil and filter change. As long as your compression is good you likely won't have to do any more for now. You get to have the fun of lifting up your rig high enough to drain the oil. I think this is the common point of neglect with most forklifts to run and run w/o oil changes.
Your saga continues...  Wink 
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 3:26pm
re: brakes. I had 'fun' doing them on my FPD50( maybe 7,000# ?). Made a front tire 'carrier' as tire/rim/brakedrum assy is PD heavy ! Bleeding was a nightmare until I finally figure out one of my new lines was 'humped' and the bubble of air couldn't escape. I tweaked the line so it was always downhill to the wheel cylinder.filled master, opened wheel cyl a tad, let drip.kept eye on master, keeping it full. Once all the air was out tightened things up, been fine ever since.

re: oil changes. I made a set of 'sectional' platforms and ramps from 2by10s. The platforms ae 4 2by10by 6' boards screwed together then sawn into 1-3-2' sections. A 1by6 along the outside of them keeps them together. Once the forklift is driven up and  blocked, I remove the center 3' section of the platform. NOW I have good access to the 'belly of the beast'.  I had it sit there overnight, just to be sure it was safe. Simple 2by2 'blocks' scewed to next to the wheels keep if from moving. While letting the oil drain I noticed that noone had ever greased the double U-joint 'drive shaft', sigh..it's on the list but looks like a 'not-so-much-fun' task to deal with.

Probably the best vehicle I've ever bought.  It's actually MADE me money ! More than the $1700 purchase price.

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hd1937 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 4:39pm
Sugarmaker in action this afternoon.

https://youtu.be/fRoLOpKWFt4


Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 5:00pm
Knowing how fast and thorough Chris works ,we'll probably see a 'factory fresh' forklift on New Year's Day !!!
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 8:36pm
Runs Great!!!!Clap
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2020 at 8:56pm
Jim,
 Thanks! Good shot of the old man and the old forklift! After finding what was wrong with it. (stuck valves) I think I may keep the propane components a while just in case! 
No tune up at this point and not sure I have the carb rebuilt correctly. But she does fire right up with a little choke action. Slightly cold blooded like most Allis machines. 
Jay,
 No not that fast for me. But she is butt ugly! Could you post pictures of your ramps? I think I am going to need something like that too! Interesting that you really like the machine. I am looking forward to getting the hydraulics fixed and some trials.

Folks,
Ran into a snag today while Jim was teaching me about using the forklift. Blew a line on the tilt back side of the left mast cylinder.  So decided to try to take the cylinder out. Good plan on paper, not good in reality. Hardened 1 inch pin rusted into a blind hole! Not one of AC's best designs! We played with it using several typical approaches. Including heat and bigger hammers. After Jim left I preceded to break the end off the stuck pin. That was not the plan! 
Called my forklift guy and he is stopping out in the morning to do a viewing! We will determine the point of leaking, and come up with a plan to remove and replace the hydraulic line/ lines.

Jim and I did get a chance to prototype the new proposed gas tank. Some fab work to mount it and that should be solved! Looks like it was made for it!


Small plastic gas tank for now above big tank:

Need about 3 inch base/ frame to allow outlet from new gas tank:

Forgot to mention: Mast tilted in and out, forks went up and down. Machine went forward and backward! That's a start!

Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 23 Dec 2020 at 9:02pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 6:12am
hmm....gas tank...
I must be getting old and paranoid, but I don't like the location of the tank....ANY leak and we won't be getting any more updates from you. The fuel tank for mine is along the right side frame rail, mtd on the inside of it,SAFE from any heat source. I assume that's where the gas version of your would go ? I'd appreciate it you'ld look into it before you commit to 10gals of volatile gas behind your back,above the muffler and hot,hot engine.

re: stuck pin. maybe, just maybe, if you clamp arc welder to pin and 'cast base where pin slides into', crank up the amps, the heat of the current flow will loosen the pin from the base ? I'm thinking haet real hot, add oil,try to turn pin back forth, do all again, several times and it might just free up ?? It'd work better if the electrodes were on the 'tang' of the cylinder and the 'cast base' to free up the pin in 'hidden hole'.


re: ramps,I'll look for a picture but now they're put away. easy to build though. I cut up 2by10by12' into 1',2',3' pieces, 8 of each. Used 2, 3" deckscrews to join2 - 1' pieces together then another and another for a 4 high stack, all 8 'sections built this way. The ramps are 1',2'3',and 4' pieces screwed on top of each other with scrap 1x6 deck boards to make the incline 'smoother'.A 6' 1by4 along each outside is screwed to the 3 sections and a ramp unit, 1 screw per piece. A 2by4 front and back keep the ramps at the correct spacing(center of ramp = center of track), this allows you to turn the wheels a bit when getting on and off.MYsections are 2'-3'-1'-ramp sequence. Once up, scrap 2by2 front and back of the front wheels keeps it from rolling .You simple unscrew the side 2by4 and remove the 3' center section. If you need more height,simply add anotheer 'layer' or 2 of 2by10 to sections and ramps. If you've got any scrap 2by6, use them 'side by side', makes a nice 11" wide section. 2by12 wood be nice, if you have scrap. The idea is to have a reasonably wide,soild surface for the lift to sit on. The center section is whatever 'gap' between back of front wheel and front of back wheel.My front tires are big(outdoor unit), so 2' length seemed right.


The forklift has been a GREAT tool ! Can easily move my 9by12 tractor sheds with it. Neighbour who parts out pickups LOVES it. Lifts off cabs, pulls engines, carries rear ends,tosses 1/2 frames into dump trailer, and he pays me to have fun  with it ! I mad an adapter with a 2" ball to move trailers around and a 'tube with hooks' that goes on the forks. That make engine/tranny pulling  easy and controlled.

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 8:40am
Chris,
Nope, no relation to shamless dude. The gas tank on these machines was originally in the left front upper corner of the machine inside that removeable cover. I also made ramps to get my machine up in the air. Will include pictures with the propane ones.  Just did tilt cylinder and hoses on mine. Crows foot wrenches help a lot with the hydraulic lines.
Ed

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 10:06am
I posted a 'link' for one of the dozens of manuals 'libereated manuals' has for the F40...it's in the  forklift ID posting of snowmans....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 1:50pm
Thanks guys! 
Merry Christmas!

So Carl came over today and he helped get this cylinder evaluated. I thought it was the front hose. Nope we determined it was the front seal in the piston:
He had the tools to get down under the cylinder to disconnect the hoses.
The we  rotated the cylinder to the vertical. Since we cant get the pin out this may be the best we can do. I need to check for cylinder rebuild kits.



Snowman, Did the pins come out of your cylinder pivots???? Any pictures?
And your are exactly right Carl ( The fork lift guy) used a long crows foot to get to the hose fittings under the cylinder. 
Also did you do both of yours? And If I may ask where did you get the parts, And Approx cost. I have to decide how much $ I want to get into this unit? 

Jay, Were going to need pictures of the ramp system at some point! 
Your idea with the welder might work to heat and loosen the pin. 
Yes gas tank location may not be ideal? And yes they were on the left front corner of the machine just above the left front tire area.

So the saga continues: Old fart working on old stuff! Sounds about right!Smile
Regards,
 Chris



D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2020 at 10:17am
Chris,
Yes I had trouble getting 1 of the pins out, had to soak it a couple of days with liquid wrench. I did both tilt cyls and steering cyl. Had a shop here in town rebuild them, no time for me to do them, slammed with boat repairs. They charged me $650.00 to do all 3. I also replaced all 4 tilt cyl hoses, the by pass hose from the steering valve to the fitting under the left tilt cyl and both steering cyl hoses. The transmission hoses I opted to do in 3/8" push lock hose and a and n fittings from an automotive supply house here in town. Where did you order your owners manuals from?
Ed

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2020 at 10:37am
Chris,
Here are the pics you requested, my propane set up is different than yours. The ramps i made out of 2x8s, 3 high, I drive the fork lift up on them and then jack it up higher with bottle jacks.
Ed
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