Allis F40 fork lift

 Ok i ran out of things on the short list. Well after making out some as always late Christmas cards!

And the forklift loomed up in front of me. 

Pulled off the air cleaner, hose and propane orifice ring assembly. Then came in to warm up and eat Christmas cookies and coffee. Yea this retirement stuff is rough! Oh yea fixed the licence plate light I stepped on and broke a couple months ago. O-Riley had the matching lens cover just like the original equipment lens.

I digress and am distracted with cookies too!

Next I will pull the propane regulator off and connect the water line together. That sounds like a trip to NAPA for some fittings?

Then the carb can come back off and the rebuild will start. Good news is that I believe that it can be saved. And should be able to run on pump gas someday too. And it is relatively clean from the prior adventures. Pictures you ask? Be careful what you wish for!

I guess this was just one of those warning threads to allow you to get coffee and settle in!

 Regards,

 Chris 

 I think you have to make your own! Congratulations on your retirement!

On the fork lift: Well failure again.

Took the carb off. Did my best job of rebuild put gas parts in. Put it on and got a little sputter from the engine.  

Now I have never had a carb like this apart before. it has a vacuum diaphragm on the bottom. Had parts I was not familiar with so I called the guy I got the kit from. I am sure he is a good carb guy. But I doubt I will bother him about carbs again. Some folks want to help some just talk down to you. He would not be high on my recommendation list for carb work or information.

Humm Next moves on the forklift?? I dont know? 

Lets see good news is its not froze up. Seems to have some spark with the old HF in line tester. Gas is getting to carb.  Actually may be flooding a little? 

Added the trial tank:

water bypass hose added:

Carb:

Right now it looks better than it works! Carbs can be a challange! This one may not be correct in some small way.

Regards,

 Chris

 Thanks! Yes just ate more for supper too!

Daughter and Granddaughter last night!

Took the carb apart again. Found that I forgot the power valve. And I replaced a small brass valve in the carb base next to the power valve. Part of the fuel pump?? A real pain!

It wasnt pretty:

I found one of the very small holes in the carb throat to be plugged. I think I got that opened. Installed the carb and got about the same results. No start um! Humm. I have spark, May still have a fuel flow issue? But it doesnt want to even try. Will sleep on this.

Wires, Champion plugs, rotor, cap, points, condenser all could be changed. But Was trying to get it to even give a healthy try to start, before I did a tune up and spent another $100 on this forklift! I did take out all the plugs and cleaned them up. No change.

Regards,

 Chris

So I think I might check the valves too. I thought of that. And no I did not squirt oil in the cylinders. It has set for a while so I guess they could be pretty dry. 

I did try some either and really did not get any wounderful starting 

What do folks think of doing a complete tune up when you have a pretty good sparky through the in line spark tester on each old plug?

Yea it sure looks like it needs freshened but using the theory that sparky gas and compression it should run? Well I need go check fuel and compression again.

Also have a GreatGrandson who at 5 is smarter than all of us! Well that's his view!

Yes more cookies too! Cheryl made some molasses ones and they are awesome.

Regards,

Chris

Have a very Merry Christmas!

I knew it would happen!  Great news, now for the little things to get it working properly, Good work, Chris!

I can see some more concrete being poured next summer...

Congrats on getting her running. I got my valve cover and grommets at forkliftpartssupply.com. $22.00 for every thing. Master cylinder I purchased from NAPA, p/n M3081.

Good luck

Ed

 Checked with NAPA on the master cylinder $108 new no core.

The forkliftparts supply site is not easy to navigate? Could be just me? Might have to call them?

Regards,

 Chris

As for those stuck valves... given the sludge under the valve cover, that's the 'lubricant/glue' between the guides and valve stems that made them stuck from sitting unused for years. Penetrating oil on all the valves down the guides, will keep them freed up along with an oil and filter change. As long as your compression is good you likely won't have to do any more for now. You get to have the fun of lifting up your rig high enough to drain the oil. I think this is the common point of neglect with most forklifts to run and run w/o oil changes.

Your saga continues...   

hmm....gas tank...

I must be getting old and paranoid, but I don't like the location of the tank....ANY leak and we won't be getting any more updates from you. The fuel tank for mine is along the right side frame rail, mtd on the inside of it,SAFE from any heat source. I assume that's where the gas version of your would go ? I'd appreciate it you'ld look into it before you commit to 10gals of volatile gas behind your back,above the muffler and hot,hot engine.

re: stuck pin. maybe, just maybe, if you clamp arc welder to pin and 'cast base where pin slides into', crank up the amps, the heat of the current flow will loosen the pin from the base ? I'm thinking haet real hot, add oil,try to turn pin back forth, do all again, several times and it might just free up ?? It'd work better if the electrodes were on the 'tang' of the cylinder and the 'cast base' to free up the pin in 'hidden hole'.

re: ramps,I'll look for a picture but now they're put away. easy to build though. I cut up 2by10by12' into 1',2',3' pieces, 8 of each. Used 2, 3" deckscrews to join2 - 1' pieces together then another and another for a 4 high stack, all 8 'sections built this way. The ramps are 1',2'3',and 4' pieces screwed on top of each other with scrap 1x6 deck boards to make the incline 'smoother'.A 6' 1by4 along each outside is screwed to the 3 sections and a ramp unit, 1 screw per piece. A 2by4 front and back keep the ramps at the correct spacing(center of ramp = center of track), this allows you to turn the wheels a bit when getting on and off.MYsections are 2'-3'-1'-ramp sequence. Once up, scrap 2by2 front and back of the front wheels keeps it from rolling .You simple unscrew the side 2by4 and remove the 3' center section. If you need more height,simply add anotheer 'layer' or 2 of 2by10 to sections and ramps. If you've got any scrap 2by6, use them 'side by side', makes a nice 11" wide section. 2by12 wood be nice, if you have scrap. The idea is to have a reasonably wide,soild surface for the lift to sit on. The center section is whatever 'gap' between back of front wheel and front of back wheel.My front tires are big(outdoor unit), so 2' length seemed right.

The forklift has been a GREAT tool ! Can easily move my 9by12 tractor sheds with it. Neighbour who parts out pickups LOVES it. Lifts off cabs, pulls engines, carries rear ends,tosses 1/2 frames into dump trailer, and he pays me to have fun  with it ! I mad an adapter with a 2" ball to move trailers around and a 'tube with hooks' that goes on the forks. That make engine/tranny pulling  easy and controlled.

Jay

Chris,

Yes I had trouble getting 1 of the pins out, had to soak it a couple of days with liquid wrench. I did both tilt cyls and steering cyl. Had a shop here in town rebuild them, no time for me to do them, slammed with boat repairs. They charged me $650.00 to do all 3. I also replaced all 4 tilt cyl hoses, the by pass hose from the steering valve to the fitting under the left tilt cyl and both steering cyl hoses. The transmission hoses I opted to do in 3/8" push lock hose and a and n fittings from an automotive supply house here in town. Where did you order your owners manuals from?

Ed