Allis Chalmers D17 with homemade cab

So, I posted some pics. GM alternator, however, not a one wire. Frame on side of tractor looks like for a Jerry can or another battery. Right grill needs some work. Under cab support. Couple shots of interior of cab. Rear valve stem corrosion, tires are NOT loaded, I will get some silver PR15 and touch up. Rear end, not sure whats Allis and whats not. Category 1 on the arms which I use, however link is category 2. Gas gauge is corroded and doesn't work. Gauges are junk.

I did adjust the carb and it runs pretty smooth. The monkeys at the auction went banana's on it when it apparently ran out of fuel, all thinking they knew what was wrong. I put a gallon of gas in it and it fired right up.

Its charging and is 12V positive ground. Which will help with the plow hookup.

The exhaust manifold is shot where the muffler threads in. Will have to get a new one.

I do like the pin mount plow mount.

More too come..

Edited by OldSchoolRecovery - 29 Oct 2018 at 4:15pm

Also, the power director locks to the back for low, but does not lock to the front. And, it really doesn't disengage in the middle like the book tells me it should. I have the service manual for it and will have to see if I can adjust it.

Power director is new to me. I'll run it by my buddy, he's all things Allis, when he comes around again.

If I find a comfortable snow plow speed, either in low range or high range, is it ok to leave it in either low or high range all the time? Thanks

Edited by OldSchoolRecovery - 29 Oct 2018 at 4:27pm

The little round knob is on the snap coupler release lever. That lever pulls back to remove the drawbar, which enables you to mount other snap coupler equipment. You won't need that if you are just using three point mounted equipment. The power director lever should lock in both high and low positions. The power director clutches run in oil, so when the oil is cold, the clutches drag in neutral, like a motorcycle clutch. Usually gets better when warmed up. If you need a slower travel speed, the power director can be slipped for long periods without damaging anything.

had a very nice cab for a 45, not sure who made it thought I was going to have to send it to china, had a guy from Tennessee come to get it and while loading found it had metal side covers for engine which made a heat houser for it and they mated up with removable floorboard covers for the heat to come in.If I fed in the rain or plowed snow seemed like a $100 would be a bargain to stay warm and dry

All that glitters is not gold.

Exhaust manifold was cracked and shot, muffler bottom was rotted through. New manifold and muffler.

Carb is a new replacement, however, a universal. The throttle shaft is tight against the block. Governor linkage was to clubby and hit the choke arm which is also clubby. 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag.

Will need to rework the throttle. Good time to hook up a foot throttle for snow plowing.

Have plow hanging on it, net to wire and plumb that up.

All for now.

Battery pan in battery box was rusted out. Have the new pan being fabricated. New box costs $180. I will post pics when I get the "fixed" battery box back from powder coater.

DrAllis wrote:

Don't know what the point of the picture is, but as long as that throttle shaft isn't rubbing on the engine block, it won't hurt anything.

The throttle shaft is buried into the engine block as seen in the picture(s). Thats the issue. Also, the universal arm was loose as a goose.

I will have to take tag off to get a better look at the numbers to see what it is for.

https://youtu.be/rdzIxwUuDV8

Finally got it together and this its first plow.

Put blade on front, add rear blade on 3 point. Will add weight to back tires and will come in handy for cleaning up snow. Been doing it for years. Blizzards will take off rear blade and put on snowblower. Chains on tires can be optional! FUN😁

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