Allis Chalmers 7060 Timing

So you lined up timing marks before pulling pump right? And then never rotated engine? And what was the balancer on then?. Bottom line,if marks line up and it shows 18 deg that's what it is. I'm not there so I don't know if you're on #1 or #6 TDC.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 07 May 2024 at 10:31am

SteveM C/IL wrote: So you lined up timing marks before pulling pump right? And then never rotated engine? And what was the balancer on then?. Bottom line,if marks line up and it shows 18 deg that's what it is. I'm not there so I don't know if you're on #1 or #6 TDC.

I removed the gear after i marked teeth where they were, I forgot to make sure the line was lined up in the pump before i removed it so i think the timing is all messed up, im probably going to have to pull the valve cover to make sure i have it on the right stroke. My best bet is i’m 180 out but that doesn’t explain why i get no smoke when cranking

Any shop that did the pump without doing the injectors is asking for problems. If the fuel was gummy and rusty inside the pump, it is in the injectors as well. They need removed, disassembled and reset just like the pump was. You'll be lucky if you haven't seized the pump head. The injector needles do get stuck and won't open. You can't just have them tested either, they need to come apart to be cleaned properly. New tips may even be needed. While injectors are out, you can then find #1 compression stroke by plugging #1 inj hole, turn engine over clockwise (viewed from front) until plug pops out. You are now coming up on compression stroke, so at 18* Before TDC is where you need the pump marks to line up with each other. Good luck!

I don't think that's how they work. Never heard of loose return line for fuel bleeding. Always loosen pressure line.

As stated before, the top of the injectors - assuming they are AC and not Bosch - the AC has the drip line on top - are is exit point for the leakage of the fuel that is necessary to lube the moving parts of the injector - on some AC injectors there is a fiber 'filter' that can act as a plug if really contaminated.  The drip line exits to the tank along with the case drain of the fuel pump. IF your pump had stuck plungers due to varnish etc, bad fuel the injectors could be stuck - If not and you have a fuel restricion issue no amount of rebuilding will fix the issue. It is very common for us to receive calls "we just had this rebuilt and it will still not run" - We usually use a separate fuel supply source to eliminate the tractors as a fuel source. Even if it is 180 out of time - every AC tractor I have seen WILL smoke - and smoke bad - and will run if hit with a shot of ether but runs horribly . IF the pump plungers were not stuck or the pump full of crud, the injectors probably will not be either - you need to talk to the rebuilder. Also Pull the Fuel filter - unclip it - and see if there is a roll pin for location - if there is - pull it out flush out behind it and throw the roll pin away - there was a service bulletin decades ago about this. After this replace filter - loosen the line going into the center of the pump and pump the hand primer - you should get no air but all clean fuel blowing out at each stroke. Just things from past experience.

Dan. In your scenario could you just use a longer (all thread) screwed into clamp bolt holes with the nut under the injector and not deal with a push plate?

Is there any reason why a slide hammer that has a nut that threads onto the top of the injector would not work to pull them out?  I've done this many many times on other engines, just not on any of the 426 cu in allis chalmers ones

SteveM C/IL wrote: Dan. In your scenario could you just use a longer (all thread) screwed into clamp bolt holes with the nut under the injector and not deal with a push plate?

Small update, i cracked the lines at the injectors and verified i had fuel up to them, I put the lines back on and tried cranking the tractor. I had pretty good smoke and it sounded like it tried to fire but the one battery and junk cables was not enough to get it going. I’ll have to go buy 2 good batteries and better cables to see if it wants to really fire off

Michael V (NM) wrote: if ya gonna get new cables with new batteries,, I'll suggest to get the batteries with threaded post, group 31 ,, I think,... check your grounds also, from the battery box to the tractor transmission case this is what I done on my 7060,, works good. had the parts store jus put the new ends on the old cables