Allis Chalmers 170 gas

Oil pressure is around 30psi. I installed a T fitting so I could have the warning light on the dash still.

For some reason my temp gauge stopped working (its new). It does read around 100 when I turn on ignition. My guess is the sending unit is sitting in an air bubble if that's possible, because I had to drain the coolant to do the head bolts tightening, so it's possible that the liquid is just not reaching to the sender, may need to drain the air a bit by cracking the plug open for the sending unit. It was working before as I noticed running the tractor for 5mins, temp got to 160.

Swapped out a couple of broken headlights with new LED's, the difference is astounding haha.. I may need to replace all of them just to be on the same kind of light output, right now it just looks funny, but hey, it ain't broke..

Also cleaned up the dash, sprayed it with a rustoleum, rust color, to match the original rust color scheme that was throughout the dash. all new gauges, except for the Tachometer, which is not connected and probably never will as I switched to a newer style alternator with no tach hookup. But that's alright, I might get an aftermarket one at some point.. 



So what's left to do now.. basically tying up loose ends. Fluids will need to be changed still. One of the pistons on the loader still bent.
Will keep a better eye on overall health now that I have more experience and time with her. Also, these forums and the speed of replies of folks on here has been extrordinary helpful with diagnosing and progressing.
I know that I may not be able to contribute as much in terms of responding to other posts, as I generally lack experience to be of much help.. But I hope that if someone has a similar problem with their tractor model 170, they might find some information in this lengthy well detailed thread by using the search feature.

As far as engine health, she sounds much better, I'm not sure if she is misfiring or not as Dr. Allis mentioned. I did check to see if the distributor was timed to the center mark in the flywheel and indeed it is. However I don't have a timing light or the knowledge to time it to the F25 mark. That might be something for next winter.

Overall the rust on the body isn't too bad, but it would be great to just kind of freshen up the paint in the near future, especially since she lives mostly outside under cover of a tarp.

Looking forward to the growing season ahead of us and how well she will run. I'm glad I took the time to learn and invest in this great tool. I have not counted the hours, but it's been many many hours in a cold barn. Luckily, it seems this was the best winter in terms of warmth to do this. Many days above freezing helped me progress faster.

Thanks for reading ya'll! Busy season starting very soon, so this might be the last update in a while. 
Let me know what you think, if you made it this far haha.
Advice, tips, cheers! Hope you all tractor on.

That's what I was thinking as well, I don't know how much clearance the valve cover has underneath the cover, but worth finding out indeed!

Edit; beginner's mistake I suppose, I turned the engine over and realized pressure was relieved on said pushrods holding the rocker arm up. I suppose I needed to alternate tightening bolts down as I slowly turn over the engine and release valves?
I could not find the proper procedure in the manual anywhere unfortunately,
I don't think I did any major damage, maybe at the worst I stripped the stud a bit..

Am I able to pull out that stud from the top of the engine and replace it ?

That's some good advice and pretty doable. Just pulling the valve cover I can access those bolts or does it involve removal of the rocker assembly aswell ?

Here's some pics of the manifold and mating surface

Chances are good that you will have to replace one, or more, of the studs. YOU DO NOT WANT TO BREAK THESE STUDS OFF IN THE HEAD!!! At least two (it's been a long time) of the studs thread into the water jacket, so you need to put some sort of sealant on those studs, to avoid leaks.

When you are ready to install the gaskets, they are all individual. You need to use something to hold them in place. I, personally, use a small dab of grease to stick them to the manifold.

When you start tightening, start in the middle (like you would when tightening head bolts). Very lightly snug the nuts and continue gradually working outward. Repeat this several times, tightening slightly and evenly every time. I can't remember the proper torque but be very careful on the ends of the manifold. It is very easy to break the end flanges off.

As I said earlier, keep retorquing the bolts after every run cycle until they don't turn anymore. (This will take several run cycles.)

Good luck!

A weak battery is very tough on a starter. Starting with a booster/charger is, too. You should get a good battery ASAP.

If you run it very long with a leak between the head and exhaust manifold, it will eventually pit the head. At the very least, you should remove the manifold and try to true it back to as flat as possible and install new manifold gaskets. They need to be retorqued after every heat cycle, until they quit turning.