Allis CA

I got the new seal and did the best I could to install it. It's in there but I would have liked to do better. one area did not go down into the bore as it should. I think it will seal on the shaft OK.

I cleaned up the wood-ruff key and installed it in the shaft. Then heated the brake drum to 500 deg F on the range top. Slid it on to the shaft and still had to pound it to the home position with a piece of pipe and an 8 lb sledge. Maybe I should have heated it more?

But it is on the shaft and in the correct location, locked in place with the screw and lock nut, an Allis standard item.

Some clean up and then will fill the pan with gear oil and install it on the final drive casting below the bull gear.

Keep moving forward a little at a time.

Regards,

Chris and Cheryl

Folks,

It would not be easy to put that entire final drive unit in my freezer! And I gave my 30 ton press to my son about 10 years ago. The heating of the brake drum worked. Just need to be ready to move the brake drum with a BFH if required.

We have a new project in the shop today also. Friend John brought his 46 Ford Super Deluxe four door, over to work on brakes and new wiring. That should fill in the gaps to keep us up and moving, if we run out of Allis projects.

I shuffled Allis tractors in the small shop today. Only have 6 tractors in there! Got the snow plow blade on the D14. We are ready for winter!

Regards,

 Chris and Cheryl

More small parts and fasteners cleaned today. Doesn't seem like much but all these parts need to be touched, cleaned, primed, and painted. Yikes! Most parts have been bagged and tagged, and that helps sort things out. 

Still have sheet metal parts like hood, tank, and the grill to be worked on.

The weather has been great unusual for November.

Regards,

 Chris and Cheryl

 I am going to try to space the engine out a inch and a half more on the engine stand to try to get the oil pump on and the rear seal inside the aluminum plate in place. I assume I need to oil the felt seal on the rear of the crank as it is installed?

I could just set this block on the table but would like to flip the engine to install the pan gasket and pan too, so if I can keep it on the stand that would be an advantage!

I just put the second side weight for the side of the engine in the E-tank. Not sure if I will use them but it keeps the tank busy and the paint just falls off in big chunks.

Off topic but I needed a new phone. The phone case had cracked and the battery was visible. So after a new phone was set up this old one was destroyed. My uncles bench vise did the trick:

Things are moving slowly as we work on a maple syrup event in our shop tomorrow.

Our friend John has his 1946 Ford fordor in the shop also. He is putting in a brand new repro wiring harness. The lift will help him complete it easier too.

Regards,

 Chris and Cheryl

Cleaning the block:

Spaced the block out on the stand to work on the rear seal:

Added the  cam spring and spacer then front plate and the seal:

Then the rear seal (oiled) and new gaskets:

Next parts to be cleaned up:

All the weights have been thru the E-tank, Need wire brushed then painted:

Regards,

 Chris and Cheryl

Cleaned up the distributor and the base. Just lots of details. Will put in new points and maybe a condenser?

Regards,

Chris and Cheryl

 Good suggestion! I just might do that on the points. They did not look that bad. I need to spend some time cleaning fasteners and small parts. I need too build a poor man's paint booth for a bunch of these small items.

Regards,

 Chris and Cheryl

I decided to review the oil pump. After starting to open it up, I realized it was going to take some more work. Two of the three screws broke off, with about 1/8 inch sticking out of the oil pump housing. Yikes this is going to take just a little bit of noodling! I decided to try welding something to the top of the remaining screw protrusion. John gave me an idea to use a large socket to fill the oil pump cavity during welding. I added the electrical tape. This was to keep any splatter out of the pump cavity.

I usually do the washers with a nut welded on top, but decided to scale the concept to a counter sunk hole in a 1/8 inch strip of steel.

First two times it failed, and broke the weld.Went to the other broken one, This  time I brought out the blue tip.

Heated the housing at the screw location. Bingo the screw came right out! Back to the shorter one and the same process worked to remove it too.

I bought a gallon of carb cleaner today at NAPA. Soaking the CA carb. Will order a carb kit for it tomorrow.

John cleaned a bunch of the small CA fasteners for me. Maybe that is for me helping him a little on his 46 Ford? He also wants me to go with him to his Dads place to look at a couple CA tractors, That sounds like trouble for sure!

 I installed the front cover for the governor gear, on the front of the engine. Ordered new manifold studs, washers and brass nuts, from Sandy Lake.

Regards,

 Chris and Cheryl

 All of the tractors have ethanol fuel. So maybe it wont do any good with Stabil added?

Order a carb kit and new hoses for the rad, also new sediment bowl assembly. Just trying to keep moving on this project. I took the IH split wheel weights off the rims and have one in the E-tank for cleaning. Rim disassembly is on the list too, as the centered are very pitted and the rims need sanded and repainted.

Hope things are good in orange land!

Regards,

 Chris and Cheryl