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Topic ClosedAC torque limiter adjustment. In tractor.

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Mrgoodwrench View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2016 at 5:23pm
The problem with this whole thing is the post it self.. truth be told I don't give a rats a$$ how you "fix" your tractor or if the stupid things you do hurt you. What I do think about is the next guy who has that problem and does a google search and finds that post. He sees the pic and decides it's a good fix, does it and the thing falls in half. this is an cutting a hole in a cab floor to get easier access to a hydraulic hose or trimming the hood to make it easier to get the air filter out the transmission and bell housing or major structural components of every tractor don't cut them up!
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2016 at 5:39pm
Mrgoodwrench... you could sum up all you said with your signature! "If it's FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD!" LOL
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2016 at 6:56pm
I'd give him $45 a ton for it but I want that piece he cut out also.Big smile
It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2016 at 8:09pm
You say that the cast is thin and brittle, yes it will be if its cut and beaten out, but in its original form and shape it is strong enough to support the tractor. I still can't wrap my head around how you thought it was a good idea to hack a hole, it just baffles me
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2016 at 9:26pm
In pretty much every tractor that runs a standard clutch system on the flywheel they have an access port there or in from the side or top.   

It wasn't much of stretch to come to the conclusion that one could be easily added in this case.    
Odds are if they had built a model that used a normal clutch and that transmission case they would have put a port in that spot.  It's got more than enough heavy casting on three sides (if you go out to the sides far enough) to be able drill and tap cover plate bolt holes into.      
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2016 at 9:37pm
Well it won't ever be a collector tractor any more, but then again it wasn't exactly a real valuable tractor anyway. So if you got it fixed so you can get some use out of it, hey its ok with me. I've seen guys torch holes in expensive machines just because they didn't want to waste the time to fix it right, now that seems a bit on the silly side. But its they're money, not mine.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2016 at 9:40pm
Originally posted by Mrgoodwrench Mrgoodwrench wrote:

The problem with this whole thing is the post it self.. truth be told I don't give a rats a$$ how you "fix" your tractor or if the stupid things you do hurt you. What I do think about is the next guy who has that problem and does a google search and finds that post. He sees the pic and decides it's a good fix, does it and the thing falls in half. this is an cutting a hole in a cab floor to get easier access to a hydraulic hose or trimming the hood to make it easier to get the air filter out the transmission and bell housing or major structural components of every tractor don't cut them up!

Maybe so but for many splitting a tractor this size is well beyond their ability and also given the age and general shop time costs involved with anything like this well beyond financial justification for an old tractor that has no significant value to the vast majority of farming people any more.   

I never claimed it was the world's greatest fix but it is a fix that may keep a few more old tractors working well enough to stay out of the scrap yard for a few more years.  

For us we have no emotional ties to these tractors so when it does get to the point the transmission goes out or something else major gives up it's getting scrapped.    
It's not old enough to be an antique collectible nor is it worth putting much into to fix when a whole different tractor like this one can be had for ~$3000.  

As much as many here don't like hearing it AC tractors of this era are now at the point of being throw away units.    You can buy them cheap  then run them until a major breakdown happens and scrap em without issue because they aren't worth anything largely due to so many years of terrible company service and support.   
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2016 at 9:50pm
Originally posted by PeteMN PeteMN wrote:

Well it won't ever be a collector tractor any more, but then again it wasn't exactly a real valuable tractor anyway. So if you got it fixed so you can get some use out of it, hey its ok with me. I've seen guys torch holes in expensive machines just because they didn't want to waste the time to fix it right, now that seems a bit on the silly side. But its they're money, not mine.

That lack of value to anyone is exactly how we ended up with it.   $3000 at a local seasonal equipment auction got us a tractor with a low hour engine because nobody wanted it.  
Given what  it looked like when we got it it was clear it sat in some corner of someone's storage building for years before getting a pair of mismatch half dead car batteries stuffed in it just to get it to the auction.    The same story dozens of other AC and other less popular brand machines have had that went through the auction over the years.

They get run through the auction in hopes to get a few dollars more than the scrap man would pay.   Most do but many not by much.  

As for our tractor to see it in person it's clear it's a high hour machine that lived a hard life.  As long as I can keep up with the little fixes and find alternatives to the expensive ones it will have home here but after that it's scrap metal.  Wink   
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:03am
Maybe if the metal is so thin there you hurt it more than if it were thicker?? I agree that this is the exact cobbled up mess that makes these tractors so cheap. I bought a running 7050 one time at an auction for $1500 that was being represented as having a transmission failure. A few hours labor and a $200 TL disc and I had a decent tractor for $1700. If taken care of that tractor would last you a lifetime. How many other NEWER tractor makes use a torque limiter disc? Ford/New Holland did pretty sure Case did. I'm not telling you what to do, but if I was looking for a tractor and seen that I could only imagine how other problems were addressed as they came along.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 4:48am
Originally posted by 7060 7060 wrote:

Maybe if the metal is so thin there you hurt it more than if it were thicker?? I agree that this is the exact cobbled up mess that makes these tractors so cheap. I bought a running 7050 one time at an auction for $1500 that was being represented as having a transmission failure. A few hours labor and a $200 TL disc and I had a decent tractor for $1700. If taken care of that tractor would last you a lifetime. How many other NEWER tractor makes use a torque limiter disc? Ford/New Holland did pretty sure Case did. I'm not telling you what to do, but if I was looking for a tractor and seen that I could only imagine how other problems were addressed as they came along.

We are pretty much the 'end of life users' for equipment.  Never claimed otherwise.
Vehicles get ran until they fall apart and machinery get ran until it is cheaper to buy something else.   That's how it works here.   

We run things until they are no longer worth servicing and after us  things go to the scrap yard where the scrap man pays by the ton with no concern about what something looks like or how it was taken care of. 

That's who the next owner of this machine will likely be and when he gets to just going to be chopped into bits and melted down.  Tongue

It's just the circle of life for a machine and what keeps the working world moving forward. Someone has to be the last person to run something before it gets parted out or melted down and that's us.   I see no shame in it. Smile

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 6:32am
Everyone: Why do you keep egging him on? I guess you all enjoy it too much. The point has already been made that it may be a bad idea, so when people find this thread later, they won't think it's a preferred fix. Just walk away and let him have his opinion...

Tcmtech: Why do you keep egging them on and threaten to scrap just to keep the argument going? You enjoy it too much too.

Why is it that people feel so much more free to argue when they're hiding behind the Internet hole than in person?

On second thought, I guess if everyone is getting so much enjoyment out of this, why stop? LOL
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 6:48am
Originally posted by Mrgoodwrench Mrgoodwrench wrote:

The problem with this whole thing is the post it self.. truth be told I don't give a rats a$$ how you "fix" your tractor or if the stupid things you do hurt you. What I do think about is the next guy who has that problem and does a google search and finds that post. He sees the pic and decides it's a good fix, does it and the thing falls in half. this is an cutting a hole in a cab floor to get easier access to a hydraulic hose or trimming the hood to make it easier to get the air filter out the transmission and bell housing or major structural components of every tractor don't cut them up!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 6:51am
Originally posted by Allis dave Allis dave wrote:

Everyone: Why do you keep egging him on? I guess you all enjoy it too much. The point has already been made that it may be a bad idea, so when people find this thread later, they won't think it's a preferred fix. Just walk away and let him have his opinion...

Tcmtech: Why do you keep egging them on and threaten to scrap just to keep the argument going? You enjoy it too much too.

Why is it that people feel so much more free to argue when they're hiding behind the Internet hole than in person?

On second thought, I guess if everyone is getting so much enjoyment out of this, why stop? LOL


A guy joins an enthusiast's forum.

Calls the tractors the enthusiasts are fans of junk, poorly designed, dumb, won't listen to advice about things (more the oil level thread than this one).

Nah...that won't cause an argument!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 7:57am
My 7050 is worth a heck of a lot more to me than scrap. I'll never  use and abuse it to just then throw it away when done. It's cheaper in my view to keep up on the repairs and keep the tractor functioning good and looking good. It will pay off in the end, I saw a 7040 a couple years ago sell for over $14,000 not far from me even though AGCO dealers are few and far between. Why? Because this guy had a reputation for taking care of his equipment. Everything at that sale went high. I have a neighbor excavator tell me what he was told when he was young. When you repair something or do a job, are the results something you want your name on?


Edited by Lonn - 01 Nov 2016 at 8:13am
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 8:13am
If it's a low hour machine like you say, then why is it's next stop the scrap yard? How many hours do you put on a machine before it's scrap. I can put lots and lots on ours. Maintenance is key. Without it you'll be selling junk to the scrapper in only a few years. What's more profitable, to spend $3,000 every few years on another tractor orkeep the one you have in good repair. My 7050 I bought in 1997 or 98 for $7,850. It was cheap for that day and for it's condition. I never have considered abusing it because it was cheap. I change the engine oil on time, I change the transmission and hydraulic oils on time, I grease the axle and steering and 3 point every day I use it before I use it and I've fixed what ever has needed fixing and it has served me well and it still looks great and functions great.

I've seen people take a beautiful pickup or car or even a tractor and within two years it's total junk because they run on a zero maintenance policy. I've seen others run the same vehicle for 20 years and it still operates real good. That all said, there are limits but a low hour 7050 to me is very valuable and would receive proper maintenance from me........ but that's me.


Edited by Lonn - 01 Nov 2016 at 8:13am
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 8:56am
Originally posted by Kcgrain Kcgrain wrote:

You want to know why Allis Chalmers tractors have such a bad reputation for resale? Right here it is, lets not spend the time or money to fix it correctly, lets butcher the tractor making it a complete pile of crap, and than be shocked when the tractor gets sold and brings $1500. Why show the tractor any respect by taking care of it, keeping it clean maintained and functioning. Over half the problems I read on this site are some shade tree mechanic half assed repair failing, it always gets blamed on Allis Chalmers and the fact that they couldn't out design these people. As Ron White says "you cant fix Stupid"
No truer words have been said! 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 9:54am
Not to beat a dead horse here, but one of your many arguments for butchering the tractor was other manufacturers have an access hole under the clutch. While that is true, the part your forgetting is the access hole usually has a thicker cast that surrounds the hole to keep the integrity of the casting sound, and as other have mentioned you have square scored corners so any stress will go right to those corners and start to crack, as you will notice any access hole has rounded corners for just that reason.  You guys think there is no engineering in that cast because it was thin, well let me explain original structures to you. When I got out of high school I worked at a lumber yard truss mfg company. We made all the country kitchens across the midwest as components and than they were shipped to location and a crane erected the restaurant so it could be open with in weeks rather than months. We shipped a complete restaurant out to Denver, but there was one roof truss missing, it wasn't noticed until it got on site. No big deal right, except the trusses were 60' and we only needed to ship one to Denver, from Wisconsin. One engineer thought we could cut the truss in half and put it on top of a rack on a pickup truck to save freight costs, so they ran that model threw the computer to see what it would take to put the integrity into one 2x4 and 2x6 made truss. It was going to take over 2000 bolts to hold a plate to give it the original strength, and the problem was when you drilled 2000 holes into the wood it would have made it useless. We had to send a semi with one truss to fix what was screwed up. 
  You assume cutting that hole makes no difference in the integrity and you justify by some reasoning I would never understand, but you seriously compromised that casting. If somebody working for me did that, they would be fired immediately, and if I took that tractor into a repair shop and they did that to a tractor of mine, that mechanics stones would be on an anvil, and Id have a ball peen hammer,,,,,if you get my drift!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 11:06am

Question, Draining transmission oil on 7050



07 Oct 2016 at 11:59am  


Originally posted by Tcmtech Tcmtech wrote:



Post whatever you want about me from here to further justify your win in your mind. I won't be back. 


Why did you come back?  Did you think you would impress everyone with your superior knowledge of metallurgy?  Or was it how you overlook the simple things and have vastly over complicated ways of fixing? 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 11:23am
Originally posted by Kcgrain Kcgrain wrote:

........... and if I took that tractor into a repair shop and they did that to a tractor of mine, that mechanics stones would be on an anvil, and Id have a ball peen hammer,,,,,if you get my drift!


lol, that scenario brings up a tearful wince.

........not doubting your account of the truss problem, but 2,000 holes ? 
True, there wouldn't be much wood left.
I've often wondered about bolting joint plates to structures such as trusses.
Seems that some of the wood ends are severely weakened by all the holes put in.
The church we attend has those type of roof trusses.  Looks scary to me.
The weakest area is the group of holes farthest from the ends.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 11:48am
Originally posted by Jordan(OH) Jordan(OH) wrote:

Question, Draining transmission oil on 7050



07 Oct 2016 at 11:59am  


Originally posted by Tcmtech Tcmtech wrote:



Post whatever you want about me from here to further justify your win in your mind. I won't be back. 


Why did you come back?  Did you think you would impress everyone with your superior knowledge of metallurgy?  Or was it how you overlook the simple things and have vastly over complicated ways of fixing? 

How much digging did you have to do to find that just to end up using it out of context in the end?  Dead
 
But since you brought it up, when and where did I ever say anything about leaving the forum? Confused

It should have been obvious that statement related to that thread being I haven't been back there since but for several on this forum I have come to find  that the context of a topic seems to be incredibly difficult to grasp and follow. 

Personally, I think most here all wound up about the hole are just butt hurt because it was an easy fix to some past problem they spent way too much time and money on themselves.  Sour grapes effects in play is all I see in this. Tongue
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 11:57am
Originally posted by Tcmtech Tcmtech wrote:


 
But since you brought it up, when and where did I ever say anything about leaving the forum? Confused

It should have been obvious that statement related to that thread being I haven't been back there since but for several on this forum I have come to find  that the context of a topic seems to be incredibly difficult to grasp and follow. 


Yeah, we know. Your communication skills are second only to your vast knowledge and mechanical aptitude.

You're right. It's not you. It's the rest of us.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 11:58am
Originally posted by Kcgrain Kcgrain wrote:

Not to beat a dead horse here, but one of your many arguments for butchering the tractor was other manufacturers have an access hole under the clutch. While that is true, the part your forgetting is the access hole usually has a thicker cast that surrounds the hole to keep the integrity of the casting sound, 

I believe I pointed that out several times now that just beyond where I cut the hole there are much thicker and heavier castings in place.  I simply did not see a need to cut the hole that far out in order to get access to what I needed to. 

As is, now that I know what is where I am pretty sure that if absolutely needed the work could been done through a ~2"  x 4" opening as well.   Wink

As far as I am concerned there was a factory hole down there to begin with and I just made it a bit bigger so it could serve a functional purpose in doing service work to a hard to get at component.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:00pm
I've never had a torque limiter failure so not a past problem for me at all.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:01pm
This thread with you guys going back and forth is like wrestling a pig in the mud, after a while you realize the pig enjoys it.

Edited by skateboarder68 - 01 Nov 2016 at 12:03pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:12pm
Wow, just read earlier post about transmission oil on 7050. Let me know where you trade and sell your equipment so I never buy a piece owned by you. You're totally ignorant. Do you even own a operator's manual for any of your equipment? If you do, do you read it? And if you read it, do you follow it or do you always decide you are too smart for such?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:25pm
Originally posted by Lonn Lonn wrote:

Wow, just read earlier post about transmission oil on 7050. Let me know where you trade and sell your equipment so I never buy a piece owned by you. You're totally ignorant. Do you even own a operator's manual for any of your equipment? If you do, do you read it? And if you read it, do you follow it or do you always decide you are too smart for such?



Come ! On lonn...you have to remember the B oil filter experiment posts!
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:29pm
Lon, he has no need for an operators manual. He knows more than what is in any book, just ask him.
Just an arrogant, know it all, smart a$$ed prick!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:31pm
I think somebody has a shovel, with too long a handle; this hole is just gonna get deeper . . . . .
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:38pm
A deep hole is only bad if you're standing in it. Now if'n your standing over it and a potty break is next on your to do list...... well that hole doesn't look so bad but from below it's pretty ugly. tcm is the one at the bottom it appears.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 12:38pm
Do you think the whole can get bigger than the one he cut in the transmission?

Edited by Mrgoodwrench - 01 Nov 2016 at 12:40pm
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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