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AC Model G oil level.

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PJHoward View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PJHoward Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: AC Model G oil level.
    Posted: 05 May 2015 at 2:20pm
Hi, I have an AC model G with a continental N62 AG01 engine. The dipstick appears to be correct, but when I change oil, it only takes a little over 2 quarts before the level on the dipstick shows it to be at the top of the "full" mark. There are no large dents on the oil pan to cause it to read high. I looked at other dipsticks offered on E-Bay, Etc. and a visual comparison shows the marks to be in the same location.
  This has been driving me buggy for a couple of years because if I try to add 3 1/2 quarts after an oil and filter change I am sure the engine will be over filled. I'v been keeping the level just over the "full" mark and all seems OK.
  Any ideas?
PJ
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2015 at 2:46pm
Mine is the same way. 3 1/2 quarts does put it over the full mark. Doesn't hurt anything as far as I can tell.
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Bill Long View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Long Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2015 at 9:51pm
Terry Dean's book calls for 3 qts. 
Pop's Allis Chalmers Knowledge is Power book calls for 3 1/2 qts
Sorry I cannot be more specific
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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PJHoward View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PJHoward Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2015 at 6:41am
I know what the stated engine capacities are: 3Q or 3.5 Q with filter change. I've included a picture to illustrate my dipstick indication question. The engine is leveled on stands. 
Thanks for your responses,
Phil



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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2015 at 8:56am
If the oil pan is OK and it's not got a bunch of gunk in the bottom, then I'd look at the top stop on the dipstick, if it moves up and down on the dip stick shaft you have found the trouble.
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2015 at 9:09am
The February 1946 Continental "Instruction Manual for Model N50 and N62" says the oil capacity is 4 quarts.

It includes:
"CAUTION: Do not overfill the Crankcase. An excess of oil does not improve lubrication. it causes high oil consumption, smoking, and carbon deposit. Fill to the proper level, never letting it come below the low mark on Bayonet Gauge.

DRAINING THE CRANKCASE OIL
A very important factor in reducing wear and maintaining engine efficiency is the frequent and regular draining of the Crankcase oil. Drain the used oil after the first twenty hours of operation, if used for industrial service, and after two-hundred miles, if used in automotive service. Thereafter drain oil each fifty hours for industrial engines and each five-hundred miles for automotive service.
    DO NOT WASH OUT WITH KEROSENE
The reason for this is that some of the kerosene will be trapped and will remain to thin out the new oil, reducing its lubrication properties. The best method is to drain the oil when the engine is thoroughly heated. This will carry off most of the sediment. IF, then, a pint of fresh oil is poured in through the Filler Pipe, it will flush out the remainder."

That last paragraph kind of hints that 3-1/2 quarts is the proper amount of oil for an oil change.

Another measure of the required oil depth is this:
"The crankshaft and connecting rod bearings are lubricated by oil forced through the galleries, which are cast in the crankcase, and through a passage in the crankshaft. Lubrication of the front and rear camshaft bearings is affected by oil forced through the galleries. The middle camshaft bearing is taken care of by splash from the connecting rods, and the cylinder walls are oiled from oil spurt holes in the connection rods and from the splash of the connecting rods."

So the oil is supposed to be deep enough that the connecting rods splash in it.

The Allis G service manual that I downloaded from www.HenselFamilyFarm.com/links/ says with the oil filter it takes 3-1/2 quarts of oil. Typically when the oil filter is changed the stated oil amount makes the oil level a little high until the filter is filled. The Continental manual doesn't mention any oil filter.

Gerald J.
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PJHoward View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PJHoward Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2015 at 11:26am
The top stop is still welded solid in its original location. Its location also compares favorably with photos of other new and used sticks. The oil pan is clean as a whistle.
  I'm thinking the tube that holds the dipstick is possibly shorter than it is supposed to be for that length dipstick. 
Phil


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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2015 at 12:52pm
Is the seal just below the top stop still on the dipstick? If it's gone that might be the problem. The best thing to do is get someone with a G tractor to put a tape on the pan, dipstick and dipstick tube and then check the numbers of yours and theirs. 
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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irlbeck A-C'S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote irlbeck A-C'S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2015 at 3:22pm
A little off topic. If you notice in Gerald's post about the cylinder walls being lubricated through holes in the rod. That is something to look out for when rebuilding one of these engines. A friend of mine was working on a G he had bought with a locked up engine. It had been recently rebuilt but they had used some parts from a MH pony that blocked the oiling port in the rod. He showed me the differences between the AC and MH parts. Hopefully that will keep someone else from making the same mistake.
B,C,CA,(2)WC's,(4)WD's,(2) WD45'S, 45Diesel, (2)D12'S Series 2, D12 Hiclear,(2)D12 Series 3, HD3, D17NF (3)D17 Series 4 Diesels, M-100 Grader,8550,A few Lawn tractors lots of other AC stuff    
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