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A-C 7000 |
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Anthony
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Alva, Oklahoma Points: 731 |
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Posted: 05 May 2010 at 4:49pm |
I have a chance to buy a 7000 allis, it had a motor rebuild about 70 hours ago, or so they say, where these very good tractors at all. And what where they worth, I know that is a tough question to answer but thought you guys could give me a price range
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Charlie175
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shenandoah, VA Points: 6358 |
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What year is it?
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
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Chris/CT
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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Hopefully I won't ruffle feathers,. but my retired dealer friend said they were so-so. There were much better choices in the 7000 series, maybe others will post there favorites.
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Anthony
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Alva, Oklahoma Points: 731 |
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Its a 1978
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8657 |
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Supposedly they are a 200 in a 7000 series dress. A friend of mine whose family bought one new, had over 10,000 hours on it and only had to replace a starter and alternator. They loved it. Guess if I could find the right one for the right price, I'd snarf it up. I've seen them sell as high as 10K, and as low as 2500. Darrel
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skipwelte
Orange Level Joined: 29 Oct 2009 Location: Anthon, Iowa Points: 723 |
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Pudy much like darrel said, a 200 in 7000 cloths, although the 7000 does have the three speed power shift clutchs and the final drives are a little heavier. Al in al a nice 100 hp tractor.
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ryan(IN)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Bluffton,IN Points: 766 |
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Basically a glorified 190.
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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62 |
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Charlie175
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shenandoah, VA Points: 6358 |
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Was it 1978 when the finally updated the 7000?
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
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tbran
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3374 |
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they were good units, same engine as a 7010 basically but 4500# lighter. Gear shifts on the side meant balck belly unit with wet clutch - if one keeps the trannny brake adjusted and the dump valve for the clutch we had little problems. No gear jump out like the 190 200's much heavier in about all aspects. But they are getting old. The 7000s 78 and later with the HD (7040) front ends were exceptionally good units. The maroon units 76-77 had dry clutchs and were not the best hay baling tractors if one had to keep the foot on the cluth to tie a bale. Throwout brgs were weak link. Had one or two transfer oil due to overheating hydraulics - oil is checked behind batteries and some customers did not know that - when run low. |
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Hurst
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Midway, Ky Points: 1213 |
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I have a black belly. Check your oil levels in all compartments (final drives, differential, and hydraulics/transmission), as seals have been the weak link on my 7000. Like tbran said, a 7010's power, but 4500 (might be a bit of an overstatement, I was thinking closer to 3000, so I'm not sure if tbran was exaggerating, but if not, he would one of the people to know). I have a heavy front end, which is a great addition. That thing could be dropped on that front end and be fine. It's the same front end used on the 7010-7080 and 8010-8070. The 78 is most likely a black belly with the console shifter lever and wet clutch. The cabs are too small to some, but it's the first and only cabbed tractor I have ever had, so I can't really compare it to much, but it's definitely not a modern cab, but it keeps you comfortable. I'm 6'1" and fit in it fine (granted, I'm only 160lbs too and 20 years young). Also, check to make sure it's had the coolant monitored or the coolant filter added. This is going to be hard to prove for all of its life, but try to find out as much as you can. 301 is a great engine, lots of power for how much fuel it uses. Overall, I think it's a great 100 horse large frame tractor for more PTO jobs like mowing and bailing. It's good for tillage, but I would say the 7010's additional weight and heavier rearend would be more preferable in primary tillage, although the lighter weight of the 7000 is preferable for minimizing ground compaction.
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours |
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Hurst
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Midway, Ky Points: 1213 |
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Also, ask for receipts and any other proof of a motor rebuild. Look for signs of engine work, like new gaskets. Also, ask them what the sleeve bores were like and if they were fixed, as apparently most 301s end up having some pitting in the lower sleeve bores that needs to be repaired.
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours |
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injpumpEd
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4958 |
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A 7010 will cost you alot more money to buy! We had a 7000 we bought new when I was a kid(traded 190XT)and it was a great tractor. sounds to me like a $7000 tractor depending on condition. black belly worth more, open station worth less.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Hurst
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Midway, Ky Points: 1213 |
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Yeah, 7010's and 7020's price tags were what shot me toward a 7000. I think they're probably the best value for a 100hp range tractor as far as utility per dollar. They bring about what a 200 or 190xt will bring, but it seems the hundred series tractors are starting to be looked at more and more by people wanting a restoration project and the 7000 series is still mainly in the working tractor market.
Hurst |
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours |
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41739 |
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Friend had 7020 he bought new , says worst money he ever spent, every year was in shop, 2 complete overhauls in 6 years, broken injectors, pistons and many other problems. AC was trying to get to much power from to little engine.
Last time in he traded for 7040 used machine , later bought a 7060 to go with that one , loved both and no problems with them even with high hours on both. Edited by Coke-in-MN - 07 May 2010 at 11:13am |
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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Charlie175
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shenandoah, VA Points: 6358 |
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Our neighbor had a '77 7000, maroon belly. He bought a big Rhino offset and needed duals and a lot of weights to pull it. It eventually locked up in reverse and he sold it for a Case-IH. But he ran it for 10 years and never really had a issue with it until the end. I liked the 3 speed power shift.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
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injpumpEd
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4958 |
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If a 7020 is set at spec, and not worked hard, they can be an ok tractor. I do think they should have used the 426 engine though. 210's were a 120hp tractor, and they were smart enough to use them then. should have just stuck with the 7030 engine, de-fueled. would have cost more, but how much did AC have in 7020 warranty claims? Also, how many farmers actually buy the size tractor they really need? normally they would buy a smaller(cheaper)tractor, then turn the fuel screws. JMHO Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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tomNE
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: dorchester, ne Points: 1225 |
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Always check to see if it has a water filter. If it doesn't, stay away.
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AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!
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