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Marshall 
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Joined: 30 Mar 2010
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 Topic: AC 185 Questions
Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 9:32am |
First of all I am not a mechanic.
My 185 will run strong for about 45 minutes and then after it will start to sputter and then eventually dies. I can let it sit for about five minutes and it will fire back up and last about 10 minutes of running time. If I let it sit for over an hour I can get the 45 minutes of run time out of it again. Here is what I have done so far.
I have changed the Fuel filter once and have cleaned the fuel bowl twice. Every time I clean the fuel bowl and prime the fuel lines I get about a dime size amount of sediment in the bowl.
Is that much sediment normal or do I just have a filthy tank?
What should be my next step?
How do you clean a fuel tank and lines?
Could it be something other than the fuel sediment?
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BennyLumpkin
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Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Location: Centre Hall, PA
Points: 2657
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 11:29am |
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sounds like once its good and warm a leak an intake gasket/crack in the intake is opening up....my one Harley did the same thing....take a can of brake clean and spray around the intake and see if the engine runs different....around the bolted area and all around it...it'll show you where your leak is....if your tank is kinda rusty inside take it off, clean it out and put river stones in it and parts cleaner and slosh it around...it'll clean that off and then check around you can get new gelcoat for in the tank....I doubt they had that new but it'll seal the rust.
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 12:13pm |
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flex ring in the injection pump is breaking apart, sending pieces to the return fitting, thus plugging it up. time for an injection pump rebuild. we can do it for you if you dont have anyone around you know. Call 309-427-0050 injection service of Illinois. Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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skipwelte
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Joined: 29 Oct 2009
Location: Anthon, Iowa
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 12:59pm |
Sounds to me like youve got dirt in the tank. Id take the sediment bowl off and drain the tank, then blow back thru the line to the tank. I had to do that with mine. Also like Ed says could be the flex ring comming apart, then youll have small chunks of rubber, they ususally dont make it back to the tank. Good luck!
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Marshall
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 6:43pm |
I guess it could be a lot of things causing this I guess.
Tonight I cleaned the fuel bowl again and got my 45 minutes of drving in again. Then it starts acting as if it is starving for fuel. I got off the tractor and looked at the fuel bowl and with the small amount of debre I can also see air bubbles in it. I did purge the air out earlier and according to my manual air bubbles can cause a loss of power. I am wondering if air bubbles work like this? If so, I think maybe a new fuel bowl gasket might help. Any advise on this?
Thanks
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bill2260
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Joined: 30 Mar 2010
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 7:50pm |
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Sounds like time for pump rebuild to me. Had the same thing happen to my 185 several years ago. Little less than 500 bucks did the trick. Bill
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orange farmer
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Location: Ky
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 7:50pm |
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there is a glass ball in the fitting where the return line comes out of the inj. pump,take the fitting off and break the glass ball with a punch, this should be a temp.fix. We did it to ours in the late 80s and haven t rebuilt the pump yet. hth
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 7:54pm |
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Unthread the sediment bowl base from the tractor and let a couiple gallons flush the line clean. Stick your finger in the hole to stop the flow and hand the base to someone and have them blow out the crud/crap that is blocking the fuel flow and reinstall the base. I agree the pump needs rebuilding but, I think you have a fuel restriction first to deal with.
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Marshall
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 9:21pm |
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So a pump will work fine for 45 minutes and then stop? Like I said, I am no mechanic but it sounds like a pump would either work or it wouldn't. I could be wrong, Thanks
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 9:30pm |
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pump housing pressure slowly builds up to the point that housing pressure, and transfer pump pressure become equal, thus causing the pumping plungers to quit pumping(no pressure differential on either side) You can loosen the screws on the timing window of the pump to bleed off the pressure, and see if it starts back up, and continues to run. run it with the cover loose, it will leak, so be ready. HTH, Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Marshall
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 9:49pm |
 injpumpEd wrote:
pump housing pressure slowly builds up to the point that housing pressure, and transfer pump pressure become equal, thus causing the pumping plungers to quit pumping(no pressure differential on either side) You can loosen the screws on the timing window of the pump to bleed off the pressure, and see if it starts back up, and continues to run. run it with the cover loose, it will leak, so be ready. HTH, Ed. |
I actually can understand this now! I was hoping that is wasn't going to be the pump, but it really looks like its heading that way. I will try this test on it tommorow.
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Marshall
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Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 6:05pm |
Update...
I got a good look inside the tank and it is actually really clean. I then flushed the lines and they all seem clean. However, I just finished doing the test on the injection pump by backing out the screws a little on the timing window. It runs really good with the screws backed off and a small drip of fuel comming out. When I tighten the screws back up then it dies. So, Is there a quick fix on the pump that will allow me to finish disking a remaining 20 acres. Is there a blockage that I can clean out or something?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 6:41pm |
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Remove the outlet nipple on the top cover of the pump and remove the glass ball and spring from inside it. Takes a 1/2" wrench and a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp. Grind slightly on the end of the nipple to loosen the crimp that holds the washer in place and pry the washer out to remove the ball/spring.
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Marshall
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Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 6:50pm |
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I will go and give that a shot, Thank you Sir!
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Marshall
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Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 8:12pm |
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I took the fitting off and noticed a little grime in it. Rather than taking the first step to remove the ball I took a metal pick and wd-40 and gave it a good cleaning. Installed it back on and it seems to be working really good now. I will loose the ball if a few cleanings have to happen, but as for now it seems to be fine. Thanks everyone for all your help, Lots of good advice on here!
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EricTn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Tenn
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Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 8:34pm |
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I wonder what would be wrong with removing the fitting with the glass ball, replace it with a barbed fitting, and install a large inline fuel/gas filter using a couple pieces of hose. This would catch the o-ring particles before they got in the tank.
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 9:16pm |
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you'll want to get your pump rebuilt at your next convenience. cleaning out the fitting is only a temporary fore-warning. running the pump without the flex-ring in it anymore will wear on 3 metal rivets, sending metal particles into the return fuel, back to the tank. Get it fixed soon. Not a bad job, just not for everyone. Where are you located? good luck, Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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