This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | ||||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
AC 185 PTO lever stuck |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Marshall
Bronze Level Joined: 30 Mar 2010 Points: 22 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 23 Jul 2010 at 6:25pm |
Does anyone have a fix for a stuck PTO lever on a AC 185? Its stuck in the disengaged position and before it was stuck in the engaged position. I am thinking there could be burrs on some gears maybe? Anyway, I am just now starting to look in to what other problems it could be before I tear in to it. If you move the PTO lever in the small distance that it does move, You can tell that its froze up in the gear box/ transmission area. Also, This particular AC 185 is the one with no PTO clutch if that helps. I'd appreacitate any help you guys can give on this. Thanks |
|
Sponsored Links | |
Skyhighballoon(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Marshall - I have a One-Eighty with a manual PTO and I had the same issue. You probably have one or two problems, one with the rear PTO shaft and possibly one with the linkage.
I'll start with the rear PTO shaft and I learned this from Dr. Allis. On a manual PTO you engage it by sliding a splined coupler that sits on the front PTO shaft into engagement splines on the rear PTO shaft. Over time with use, the rear PTO shaft splines get bunged up and have burrs on them preventing engagement. You'll need to remove the rear PTO shaft to take care of it. First drain both the torque tube/PD/Hydraulic compartment AND also drain the rear transmission/differential. Remove the 3 bolts holding the rear PTO bearing carrier & seal. Give the rear PTO shaft a firm yank straight out the back. You are pulling it out through two seals between the torque tube and transmission so pull it straight so you don't catch and tear the seals. Once you get it out it'll look something like this: You'll need to grind down the burrs. I find that a dremel tool with a small grinding wheel is perfect. Dress up all the burrs so the splines can go into the coupler again easily. Even if fairly rough looking you can dress it up and put it back in and it should work fine. While you have it our, might as well check the rear bearing and definitely replace the rear seal and big o-ring. Take the same care in putting the PTO shaft back when you reinstall it when you push through two seals between the cases. Before you fefill your fluids check to see if the engagement works. If not, you might need to pull it back out and dress up the splines some more. Now, if you still have issues it might be with the linkage and the control arm coming out the left side of the torque tube near the clutch pedal pivot. My control arm got bent by the prior owner by pushing the lever too hard when the PTO would not engage from the spline burrs. So even when the PTO shaft was fixed the linkage would not move the sliding coupler to fully engage the PTO. To get it at it I had to remove the battery box and clutch pedal. I had to bend my control arm back using a crowbar (notice the nicks on it, lol). He's what it looks like after I bent it back: Here's a pic with the linkage hooked back up and the clutch pedal back on: A few more pics are here in Photobucket: http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e176/Skyhighballoon/One%20Eighty%20PTO/ Let us know if this help and you get it fixed or if you have any more questions. Mike Edited by Skyhighballoon(MO) - 25 Jul 2010 at 10:44pm |
|
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
|
Marshall
Bronze Level Joined: 30 Mar 2010 Points: 22 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hey I appreciate the help on this. What you said all makes sense. So now It looks like I will need to find the O-ring (923583) and the Seal (241779). I have been searching online and haven't had any luck finding these parts. I think my parts manual may have bogus part numbers in it :) |
|
Skyhighballoon(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
AGCO has them both. Old AC part numbers get a 70 prefix so the seal number becomes 70241779 and the o-ring 70923583. The seal is you can find pretty easy on-line but the o-ring is probably a dealer item. Mike
|
|
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |