a new one for me....

Tecumseh was a contract leader in OEM 'snow engine' sales for decades.

Yes, there's no air filter on snow engines, the atmospheric circumstance of snow binds and suppresses dust such that engine ingress of airborne dust is basically none, and the OTHER problem, is that air filters on snow engines will readily ice up, choking the engine.  The other feature of snow engines is the great big gloved-hand pull starter, and for OEM sales, a minimal shrouding, as the machine's bodywork is part of the cooling system, it is largely open to help heat the machine (and hopefully shed ice) as well as eliminate any lovely hiding places for mice to hang out after you're done running it (it's nice and warm in there!).

So, I had a guy bring me a V-twin 4-stroke horizontal import engine with a shaft that was all torn up from having an improperly fitted adapter for his formerly 2-stroke golf cart.  Expecting that it was all junk, he figured I would quote him an enormous price for replacing the crank, making a new bushing, etc., and certainly NOT have his 'cart' ready for the big block party coming up the following weekend.

I told him 3 days, $200.00, drop-in/run ready.

How did I do it?

First, bolt the engine down to worktable, get fuel to it, so it'll start and run.

Insert bolts into the engine's mounting face, bolt pieces of angle iron to it, then assemble a secure flat surface in line with the crankshaft.

Clamp, bolt, or weld spacer steel to the flat surface that will (in this case) intersect that 1-1/8" motor shaft down 1/16".

Put a coarse flap-disk in the 4" grinder, dress the big chunk out of the ripped out part of the shaft, start the engine, bring it up to full govererned, then flapdisk the shaft gradually, starting at the end... with a 1.020" bushing and a sharpie.

Gently grind the (fast spinning) shaft, then heavily ink the inside, then test fit the 1" bushing (stop the engine!).  The high spot will appear from ink transfer.  Restart, then touch it carefully, little-bit-at-a-time, use the guide as brace for your hands, and don't overheat the shaft.

Eventually, you'll have precision-ground that shaft down to the point where it'll accept the 1.020" bushing, now come back with a finder-grit disk, and a little emory cloth, and lightly finish it to precise OD.

I made a proper tapered bushing to fit his cart's vari-drive, with the ID bored to fit the crank.  I used my air-cutoff tool to cut the shaft keyway a little deeper, and ground a stock key a little to make a proper fit.  New bushing on, and back into the cart, in under 4 hours' work.

Dunno if this trick will work on the snow blower, but worth a shot.

My guess is that the stator coil boss broken off was result of something gettin' stuck in there that shouldn't have... it happens...