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ElementalEarth 
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 Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 4:54pm |
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It's an allis chalmers 170 gasoline.
I am strongly considering swapping out the alternator yes, after all the reading I've been doing.
Thanks for the tips, will need to create a new spot for the ground then. I might put the solenoid in a sort of box that can keep the elements off of it or
there is room under the cowl above the battery aswell but I'd need to probably drill holes to accomodate hooking it up.
Building a leanto is not an option currently as we have other infrastructure to build aswell. There's only so much you can get done in a season.
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ElementalEarth
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Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 5:31pm |
 Steve in NJ wrote:
With the harsh weather you folks have up there, the best thing you could do is upgrade the system to an SI Altenator as we chatted about and get rid of the external VR all together. This would eliminate a lot of issues you would have. You didn't mention what model Tractor you have unless I missed it, but the B,IB,C, & CA model Tractors I have a kit to mount a VR or Starter Solenoid in the toolbox. This at least keeps the unit out of the rain. Still with the moisture and wet weather you folks have up there, it's rust city. It's close to what's around here as far as rust goes. As for cable grounding, clean a spot off on the Tractors torque tube or frame rail, make a good clean connection, and then smear some Dielectric grease over the connection. A better way would be to weld or bolt a stud to a good grounding area on the Tractor, slide a cable boot over the top of the cable, make your connection, add the Dielectric grease and then pull the boot down over the connection. The boot will keep water off the connection and keep the Dielectric grease intact on the connection. You should be good to go there. A little bit of extra work, but the end result would be well worth the time. Steve@B&B
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https://www.ebay.ca/itm/174199615140?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YadLYthHQJi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mburpafmsf6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYNot sure if you can see this link, but do you think this one would do? Seems to fit all the requirements, except for tachometer maybe.. Do you happen to know of a 3 wire with tach capabilities for an allis 170?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 7:11pm |
yes, that is the 10SI version we are talking about with 3 wire setup... What your going to find is most that have the TACH TERMINAL are also 1 wire units.... There are 3 wire units that have the TACH, but the cost is 3X as much ....... why the TACH is not common in the 3 wire units, i dont know...
NOTE.. these are "DELCO 10SI COMPATABLE"..... this is NOT a DELCO alternator.. Many are made overseas are LOOK like the 10SI.... not saying thats bad, just pointing out it is NOT a Delco..
Edited by steve(ill) - 24 Dec 2023 at 7:16pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ElementalEarth
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Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 8:22pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
yes, that is the 10SI version we are talking about with 3 wire setup... What your going to find is most that have the TACH TERMINAL are also 1 wire units.... There are 3 wire units that have the TACH, but the cost is 3X as much ....... why the TACH is not common in the 3 wire units, i dont know...
NOTE.. these are "DELCO 10SI COMPATABLE"..... this is NOT a DELCO alternator.. Many are made overseas are LOOK like the 10SI.... not saying thats bad, just pointing out it is NOT a Delco.. |
Ok that's great to hear I'm on the right track. So, what do you all do about not having a tachometer then? Or I guess maybe some models came with none at all or different ways of measuring/ hooking up to the engine?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 9:17pm |
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you dont have a tach now... If you had one, would you use it ??/ I normally just run an engine at 80 -90% of full throttle (by ear) depending on the job.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ElementalEarth
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Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 9:48pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
you dont have a tach now... If you had one, would you use it ??/ I normally just run an engine at 80 -90% of full throttle (by ear) depending on the job. |
Hehe, that's exactly right! I probably wouldn'to be honest. I usually just listen to the engine to understand what it's doing.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 25 Dec 2023 at 1:47pm |
As Steve mentioned, that looks like what we call in the Auto Electric business as a "knockoff" I would say go to Rockauto.com and use 1974 Carmaro or Nova for an application, and get a genuine reman Delco 10 SI. They usually have them for exchange, but the core charge is probably around $10. bucks cause' there were a gazillion of those 10 SI Alternators made. Cores are plentiful so core prices are cheap.... Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Codger
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Posted: 25 Dec 2023 at 2:10pm |
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The few rebuilders around here won't work on the aftermarket units at all. When they give problems, they are "done for". No problems getting genuine Delco, L-N, Prestolite, Auto-Lite, FoMoCo, or any of the original alternators and/or generators rebuilt.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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ElementalEarth
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Posted: 25 Dec 2023 at 3:51pm |
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ACDELCO 3342114
Found this one on rockauto.
$58 CAD that's a really good deal! Remanufactered 63 amp 3 wires internally regulated.
Looks like it could even be the same pulley.
It might be worth spending that to improve on the electrical system altogether and making it simpler. Thanks for pointing that out.
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Codger
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Posted: 25 Dec 2023 at 5:09pm |
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That is a very good alternator and will serve you well. Was plenty of power in the 70's when cars and tractors still used incandescent lighting. Most GM cars in the 60's into the early 70 utilized a 37 amp alternator which was the original "Delcotron".
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 25 Dec 2023 at 6:08pm |
You did good there! The 65 amp version is the air conditioning version for automobiles so that should supply plenty of power when needed. Great price too! That's why I mentioned Rockauto.
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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ElementalEarth
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Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 12:11pm |
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Another day, another problem appears. I checked the coil, it's rusty on the center terminal up top and requires external resistor.
I might swap it out with an internally resistor coil.
It would further simplify the wiring, especially if I change the alternator with an internally regulated one aswell. Less parts to cause malfunctioning or resistance would be better yes?
Thanks all for the help!
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 4:17pm |
ElementalEarth wrote:
...
I might swap it out with an internally resistor coil...
... Less parts to cause malfunctioning or resistance would be better yes?
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Yes. You will never miss that resistor
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 6:22pm |
Ballast resistors never worked under the hoods of 60's Automobiles, they sure as heck don't work well out in the elements on a Tractor. Go with the internal resisted Coil. A 4 cylinder on 12 volts you want 2.7-3.3 Ohms of resistance in the ignition circuit. A 12V/3.0 Ohm Coil puts you smack in the middle. Take the old Coil and resistor and file it in the trash can....  Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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ElementalEarth
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Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 8:47pm |
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Yeah for sure. It's a miracle she was even running with all that I've been finding. She's pretty tough!
I wish I had taken the time to do this a lot sooner, but it's good that it's happening now.
We've been at this property for 5 years now and there was a lot of work to do with renovating the old farm house and raising children.. :)
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 9:22pm |
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Family and life in general come first!
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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