7060 questions

Lynn Marshall wrote: There won't be much more information on the engine in a 7060 manual that a 7045 doesn't have. Fuel injection pump setting, luber finer, and intercooler information is about it.

There actually is a section covering the luber finer. Would the the cam lift specs be the same for a 7060 and 7045?

Would have to look in books again but I think the lift and timing specs are the same on 220 VS 8070. Bolt added in nose at some point between the 2 so not the "same" cam.

I would definitely replace it it it were mine.  I used to think that it was foolish but after selling the 4640 to the guys that rent most of my ground had the crank break, I think it is a wise investment.

So are there any symptoms of a bad dampner other than an eventual broken crank? Our 8010 is closing in on 18k hours and still has the original one. Should I change it just because? It looks fine.

Unfortunately the camshaft from the first NA D21 to the Last R6 Gleaner and 4W220 were the same part #74029000 - NOW the first 3500's had a gear to drive the oil pump - that part is NLA - AC engines guys never changed the cams from non- turbo to turbo engines. Only one time in the D262 D19s - they changed the lobe to hold the intake open longer - then they would not start (even worse than normal) and they changed the cams on the first ones back to std.  Every engine designer knows the cam is the heart of the engine. We and many others found this out in pulling as well. One thing I mispoke about - there was a change in cam profile many decads ago to incorporate a 'quieting ramp' for some reason - valve seating speed was what I was told - it did not affect cam lift duration overlap or timing. Many have used offset keys to adjust timing. We know that cam timing affects starting ability as well. Random thoughts in answer to a question above.    

As with anything 40+ years old and 10K+ hrs on it, I would always keep a watchful eye on the damper and belt alignment. At least every oil change take a look, or daily if you're more inclined. I've seen them fail with half those hrs of service life, so you never know. But to just replace it because it's old ain't a good reason in my pocketbook.

I had a viscous damper on a 8070 go bad. Made it sound like it had a rod knock. Checked the bearings and they were fine. After much investigation figured out it was the damper. Where im going with this is if viscous fluid in a sealed case can go bad why wont 40 year rubber get hard and cause that style damper to not work right

Maybe they don't need to be replaced but they aren't terribly expensive.  I think a 4640 is less than $200.  It would be worth it to me for piece of mind.

Approx $600 - $650 bucks for rubber. Fluid is more.

Edited by DrAllis - 25 Feb 2024 at 8:16pm

Is anyone currently rebuilding those pulleys? Didn't the guy in Oregon retire??

Had to put one on a 436 IH in a 1460 combine three or four years ago. Want to say it was around $450 at that time. Case IH part from the local dealer.

Well this has me thinking that maybe the dampner on the 8010 is bad. It has always been a rattling terrible sounding engine from new so I never considered that the dampner could be the cause. New ones are available from agco for $1600 but only three and when they are gone they will no longer be available. I would think if it was bad from the start the crank would have been toast long ago.

MrSnerdly wrote: $1600 seems outrageous.  From TractorpartsASAP they are $170 or so for a 4640.  Same damper fits a multitude of JD models.  Have you checked with ASAP?

Agco parts at its finest. Increase the price to artificially destroy demand and then discontinue because there was no demand for the part.

I set up the dial indicator with a push rod over each cam lobe. In the I&T manual intake lift is .318" and exhaust is .285". As measured, the best intake is .298 and worst at .289. Exhaust comes in at .279 and lowest at .218. Rather disappointed to see these numbers
I have the sleeve bores cleaned and have the new ones in for dry fit checking stand out. Looks good in area

plummerscarin wrote: I set up the dial indicator with a push rod over each cam lobe. In the I&T manual intake lift is .318" and exhaust is .285". As measured, the best intake is .298 and worst at .289. Exhaust comes in at .279 and lowest at .218. Rather disappointed to see these numbers I have the sleeve bores cleaned and have the new ones in for dry fit checking stand out. Looks good in area

Interesting post. Great job including photos. Thanks for sharing.
Wondering, do any of the worn cam lobes coincide with problem cylinders #4 sleeve? Broken rings? Scored piston? etc..?