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7060 Intake gasket?

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Adam Stratton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7060 Intake gasket?
    Posted: 09 Apr 2011 at 8:40pm
My black belly 7060  had been setting a LONG time before I bought it. The motor was fairly freshly rebuilt, but had one bad sleeve and piston, which I replaced.  I also had to put a new/rebuilt injection pump on.  It starts quick and easy and runs great, but when pulling even a marginal load (yesterday it 80 degrees or so and I was pulling an 18' 2300 finish disc), it gets too hot (220). I have flushed the radiator, fan belts are tight, foam around the radiator is good, air filters are clean, etc.  The fuel was old and gunky when I got it, and have flushed the tanks and put 2 filters on before it gets to the pump, and both of them still look fine.  I put the intercooler and gasket on by myself (without a lift) when I was going through the motor, and I have always worried I pinched the gasket or perhaps didnt get it seated right.  Could that be causing my heat problems?  Any other suggestions?  I had my 7045 working the same day, pulling a 37' Unverferth rolling basket in a higher gear, and it didnt get over 200.  Any suggestions or troubleshooting ideas for the intake gasket would be appreciated. 
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2011 at 9:34pm
Take the radiator to a shop and get it rodded out. There are alot of tractors in the country that need that.  MACK
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Russ-neia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russ-neia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2011 at 9:47pm
I second the radiator internal cleaning.  Did that to our 7040 to cure the overheating problem.
The innovators offer what others will imitate.
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Hurst View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2011 at 10:57pm
Bad water pump and/or thermostat?

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2011 at 11:14pm

Before doing the radiator, verify the temp is actually hot by installing a manual temp gauge like a D17 style. You can purchase a cheap gauge and wire it to the outside of the cab to watch and make sure you really do have an overheating condition. Compare it to the factory gauge as there will be an extra acces plug on the thermostat housing. Many dashboard gauges read high when they get old and there isn't a problem with the engine....it's the gauge or sender.

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Adam Stratton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 7:17am
I thought about the gauge as well.  I had been down that road before so I put a nice white face manual automotive gauge on it.  The only plug that would come loose was the sender for the original gauge, so it isnt functioning for comparison, but I trust the new gauge I put on.  
As far as the radiator, I have blown it out well, the fins are all straight.  Last summer I made an adaptor to hook a garden hose to the bottom drain of the radiator, took the cap off, and I back-flushed the system the system with that.  It really seemed to be clean and flow free, but it could easily still be the problem.  I havent tested the thermostat either.  Is there any way to test the water pump without chaning it out?  Also, am I totally barking up the wrong tree about the intake gasket?
Thanks again guys!
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 7:24am
A blown/leaking intake gasket would cause more exhaust smoke, low HP and low boost pressures.
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Adam Stratton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 7:49am
Thanks.  It seems to have plenty of horse, has an acceptable amount black smoke (the pump was off an N6, so it is probably a little richer than the 7060 was stock, right?) and I dont have a boost gauge.  It sounds like I dont have to worry about the gasket then.  Back to the usual suspects I guess.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 8:01am
Put the tractor in "Park" and operate at full throttle for about 15 minutes. (if it's  Power Shift put it in 6th gear). After that warm-up period the temp gauge should read 180 degrees....that is what good thermostats should do. If this is good and the temps just steadily climb when working the tractor (say like over a period of 10 to 30 minutes) and the harder you pull it the hotter and quicker to hot it gets, it sounds like too small of radiator, or in your case plugged tubes not allowing good coolant flow or fins plugged badly inside the core. Be sure the transmission isn't over full by any amount as that adds to the cooling package heat rejection load. The fan should be 8 blades and the shroud should be covering 1/2 of the blade tips for best air movement.
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randy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote randy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 8:03am
Try a hand held laser themometer and you can double check tractor gauge. I bought one at harbor freight fro $25 on sale .
CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 8:38am
what kind of gauge is it? I have bought some from oreilly sunpro? can't remember right now for sure the brand, but they always read 220*. before you tear the whole thing down, you still need to verify it is getting hot, and not just a false reading. Don't ask how I know this! LOL! Ed.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Adam Stratton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 8:49am
I've wondered about that with some of the cheap-o gauges like those from HF tools, but this is an Imega or something like that.  I have one exactly like it on my 7045 and it seems to stay accurate there (or maybe the 7045 actually is running just as hot just not showing it!)  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote randy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 9:15am
The gauge is a laser, google harbor tool and enter Cen-Teck 96451, I checked my 8070 gauge with  a 180 thermostat and when i checked the thermostat housing it read pretty close to 180 deg. within 5 degrees. then i checked the radiator at different places, could tell the difference from inlet to outlet of radiator.
CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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