7050 power director valve issues

Allis 7050 inching spool is not functioning properly.

The power director and torque limiter were just rebuilt but the clutch is still not engaging properly.
There is adequate pressure at the trans brake outlet on the PD valve but the inching spool has to be manually pulled out of the valve to get it in the right position to supply oil to the brake circuit. The inching spool will not come fully out of the valve on its own despite the clutch being fully depressed.

I just pulled the inching spool out ( removed from the valve body) and see nothing wrong.The inching spool will not come fully out of the valve on its own

What could be stopping the inching spool from travelling it's full range?

There is oil flow to the oil cooler circuit and there is good pressure at the trans break outlet so I'm thinking the pump is ok, but I've been wrong before.

I'm stumped. Please give me some direction or ideas how to figure this out.

Thanks guys

Thanks Doc
The test port you refer to is seized. that's why I checked the brake circuit.
I'll check the clutch freeplay again. It is not allot as I recall but i'll recheck it. thanks again

I'm not sure exactly what you are complaining about. Does the Power Director clutch work?? tractor moves?? and upshifts/downshifts with the floor buttons ??  A proper functioning Power Director valve would have the spool clear in (forward) with foot off the clutch pedal and engine idling. As the engine speed is increased, there will come a point where the spool starts to move out some, especially at full throttle and cold transmission oil. A worn out transmission pump (gerotor pump) probably won't do that, as the oil GPM rate isn't sufficient to force the spool out (rearward) when running wide open throttle.

I am wondering, can the pressure be enough but not enough volume to run the pd properly?

No.

Your right. the spool should move forward to engage the clutch. thanks

THANKS Lynn and Doc for your responses.

As I ponder this problem it is possible the spool is not holding enough oil (worn out) and is not moving it's full range to the rear. When assisted manually to the rear it is sealing enough to fully pressurize the brake circuit.

I think I read in the manual somewhere that the range circuits can be pressure checked. that might confirm the spool function. What do you think?

Thanks. Before I split it, it would sometimes need to be revved up to get the tractor to move.
So your thinking gerotor pump. That makes sense. I don't have a flow meter. Any other indicators or tests to check the gerotor?

Thanks for your response. Appreciated.

I just pulled the poppet out of the cooling valve and it is very grooved.

I'm going to assume that the 1800 RPM transmission lube pressure light doesn't and hasn't been working on the instrument panel ??  While this warning light isn't a pressure gauge or a hydraulic flow meter, it has always been very helpful in diagnosing Power Director clutch hydraulic issues from the drivers seat.  Whenever the tractor didn't move before, this light was probably ON. When you revved up the throttle it may have went OFF, indicating there wasn't sufficient oil flow and now there is sufficient oil flow.  A leaking oil cooler relief valve poppet (pointed cone) could well be a problem BUT, you can't tell me what your main regulating pressure is. If it isn't 195 to 205 PSI at 2300 eng RPM or more, everything else is a mote point until that pressure is within spec. With 130 degree temp oil regulating pressure should be approx 150 psi at 1,000 eng RPM and 195 to 205 psi at 2300 RPM. This is the only way to at least make an educated guess without a flow meter of the condition of the transmission gerotor pump. Not air checking the clutch itself doesn't help this diagnosis process either. BUT, you've got to have a main pressure regulator reading to begin the diagnosis. It all starts there.  If the regulating pressure is somewhat within spec with the clutch pedal pushed down to the floor and then drops a lot when the clutch pedal is released, you've got internal leakage in the clutch assembly itself.

I don't think so at this point. The pump provides oil flow to the pressure regulator spool. The spool allows 195-205 psi to build, to provide oil pressure for the clutch circuit. Once pressure is built up and approx 2 to 3 GPM is flowing to the clutch application control circuit, the pressure regulating spool opens and allows any flow in excess of 2 to 3 GPM to flow downstream to the cooler (in the radiator), the filter (by the engine oil pan), and finally to the lube circuit to oil everything inside the clutch and transmission as needed. When oil is very cold and cannot easily flow thru this secondary cooler/lube circuit, the cooler relief valve poppet opens just enough to keep pressures in check and some of the oil then goes directly back to the transmission sump. So, the cooler circuit returning to sump shouldn't affect clutch application. It normally does not, so I feel a leaking cooler circuit poppet would work the same way. I've seen many of those poppets with a ring around them, but unless there are pits allowing oil to squeak by I don't think that is an issue. Anyway, it should not affect clutch application as I reason with how things are to work. 

A pressure gauge in the correct port would be the correct thing to do.

Torque limiter replacement usually calls for seating the disc to make it hold. Does it seem to slip in both sides of the power director?   Put it in low range, 4th or 5th gear, at around 2000 RPM and lay into the brakes hard to see what it does. If the torque limiter is slipping, you will lose power steering. Try it on both sides of the PD to be sure it's not just the low side slipping.

I am borrowing pressure gages again Monday night. If I can open the pressure control port I will have better numbers for you guys then.

Thanks

Lynn Marshall wrote: Torque limiter replacement usually calls for seating the disc to make it hold. Does it seem to slip in both sides of the power director?   Put it in low range, 4th or 5th gear, at around 2000 RPM and lay into the brakes hard to see what it does. If the torque limiter is slipping, you will lose power steering. Try it on both sides of the PD to be sure it's not just the low side slipping.

I'm glad you mentioned this Lynn. I plan on doing this once I get the clutch working better.