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Carl(NWWI) 
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: NW WI
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 Topic: 7045 spindles
Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 3:22pm |
anyone ever taken the spindles off of a 7000 series. What holds the spindle tight against the arm, ours has a 1/4 inch gap between the snap ring and arm. Is there any trick to getting the arm off the spindle, or just hit the top of the spindle with a maul?
Thanks, Carl
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Pilot Grove, MO
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Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 3:57pm |
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Carl - is the arm keyed into the spindle? If so you have to pull the arm up and can't beat the spindle down through the front tubes since the key will gouge into the tubes and stop you. I know they are that way on earlier tractors. Probably need to heat the arm up with a rosebud and put a good puller on it. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Carl(NWWI)
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Location: NW WI
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Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 4:16pm |
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yes, it is keyed, i read in the I&T manual that you have to cut the arm off the spindle with a torch, seems like a big waste to me, not only of a good arm, but money, cuz im sure new ones arent cheap. things like that make me want to get the person who designed it, and have him do it. He'll see how fun it is. lol
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skipwelte
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Joined: 29 Oct 2009
Location: Anthon, Iowa
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Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 4:29pm |
We used a three jaw puller on em, gotta heat em red hot, kinka takes the goodie out of the puller jaws cause they are tight!!! Might halfta heat em again to get them to slide back on the spindle!! HTH
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Steve M C/IL
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Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 9:11am |
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Lonn posted how they did it at the dealer he worked for.It went something like this...cherry up with rosebud and quench with 5 gal bucket of water....should slide right off....install-cherry up with rosebud ,drop in place ,let cool on its own...will stay tight.I need to replace bushings on a 8070 but feel leary also.
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BobHnwO
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Jenera Ohio
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Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 10:14am |
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You might have to grind off some around the snap ring area,if its peened even a couple thousanth it won't come off,BTDT!!
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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Lonn
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Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 10:19am |
Here it is again
Listen to me if want it to be tight again when you put it together. Get a 5 gallon pail of cold water. Heat the arm with a rosebud until it is red hot all around the spindle shaft. Pour the water over the arm to cool it quickly. Now you should be able to easily pull it or tap it off. When you go to put it back on heat the arm again to red hot. Slide it on the arm. Don't forget the half moon key. Let it cool on it's own. Works every time and it will be tight and not come loose like I have seen some do. That's how we did it at the Allis dealer I used to work at.
If you press or pull it off and then back on without heat you can run into problems later and it's a lot more work.
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Lonn
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Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 10:20am |
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Remember to remove the wheel as has been mentioned before
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Carl(NWWI)
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Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 2:31pm |
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alright, thanks alot, I'll give it a try when i get a chance.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 5:27pm |
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I can't figure out why you're worried about 1/4" inch gap between the snap ring and the arm???? Many of them look like that.
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Carl(NWWI)
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Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 5:49pm |
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well this is the only one we've had or worked on. always had IH. and i was just curious on why there was a 1/4 gap there. cuz i would seem like it would just fall down and be loose, but now i know why. Thanks to the above ppl
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