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7040 oil cooler leaks

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GM Guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7040 oil cooler leaks
    Posted: 05 Jun 2014 at 1:05am
hey all,

I also managed to get a 7040 going for this round of summer fallow, and hooked it to the smaller set of sweeps. It runs great and did a great job, had to trace an air leak into the fuel supply, but got that taken care of.

anyways, it has an oil leak at the oil cooler. it is the seam between the rear elbow, and the body of the cooler. also getting slight weepage at the tiny hole.

is there an o-ring that goes bad? gasket? or is it the cooler itself?

if its the cooler itself, can a guy leave the housing and change the guts? (it has excellent paint, that is why I ask. :) )

otherwise, I am pretty happy with the old gal, it seems rather peppy and the straight pipe sounds great at 2200 RPM in 4th high under load. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2014 at 6:41am
Replace the gaskets and O-rings in the cooler and you should be good to go. They get old and hard with age ,unlike me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2014 at 7:45am
The elbo gaskets can be changed without removing the complete cooler. It would be a good time to remove the cooler and replace all 4 orings. MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orangie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2014 at 8:12am
The O-R on the front water volute will need replaced too. I always shined the oil cooler tube up good with fine emery cloth. The oil cooler itself can be a little stubborn to tap out of the housing. Right or wrong, I use a block of wood to GENTLY tap out the cooler, then clean up the O-R grooves good. Make sure you install the O-R correctly, one is to the oil side, and one is to the water side. I use the wire wheel on the bench grinder to clean the O-R surface on the oil cooler itself, and lube up the O-R's when you put the cooler back in the housing. Have the other gsk's on hand to replace, the one in the cooler and the two that go between the cooler and block. Good luck!
7010, 7060, Two 8070's, Two R65's, 616H, and a few blue ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2014 at 3:06pm
"the O-R on the front water volute will need replaced too."

I assume this is at the front of the engine where it joins into the water pump housing?

how often does this leak? alot of work to get that part of the housing off. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orangie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2014 at 10:39pm
I guess I always take the oil cooler off, in one piece. The two bolts on the rear elbow, and the bolts behind the oil filters, then the injection line clamp on top. It will come off in one piece then, and the O-R on the tube going up to the water pump volute can then be replaced. This O-R doesn't leak very often, but good practice to replace it. Be careful with the injection line clamp bolts, they like to weld themselves into the aluminum cooler, and twist off!
7010, 7060, Two 8070's, Two R65's, 616H, and a few blue ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2014 at 12:04am
I re-read this post, and realized I wasnt very clear at all.

the oil cooler happens to be leaking engine oil, which is probably a whole different ballgame than if it was leaking coolant, correct?

sorry gents!


Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2014 at 5:50am
At the weep hole you can leak oil or water or both depending on which o-ring is leaking or if both are. The elbow gaskets I've only seen oil leak there. We have one right now that leaks at the elbow and I've got all the seals to completely remove cooler and replace them all. Including the o-rings on the tube going to pump. Which reminds me I have a question to post.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 1:55am
Well, the original 7040 in this thread finally started leaking worse, and I  bought a new to me 7040 with the same issue, so its cooler re-seal time. :)


Looking at the parts book, http://agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/book.aspx?book=agco/79003880, page 46, is there a gasket to seal part #1 to part #18? They only list #15 as qty 1, so its not that.

Currently the parts list is:
2 each of #8 and #11

#12
#15
#16

Is #13 necessary or can it be skipped? I imagine its a Murphys law deal, it will only leak if you spend the $ on replacing everything else... can a guy coat it in silicone? If a guy does replace it, anything need done to the piece the tube fits into?



Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 6:39am
Is #13 the o-rings on the tube? If so and if my memory is correct, they are super easy to replace while you are that far. I've been told by a mechanic for a big construction company in my area to put a little silicone on the o-rings for the core just before you slide it together. I've never done that myself but on the 7030 I did, the o-rings on the core leaked immediately afterwards, showing a drop of anti-freeze at that weep hole from time to time. Tractor is coming back into the shop anyhow to get the injector pump rebuilt this summer so I'll tackle that oil cooler again. I'll try the silicone but I think one should be careful not to plug that weep hole with silicone.


Edited by Lonn - 14 Jun 2018 at 6:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 8:14am
I just done this little project on my 7060,,, its not a big a job as it looks,, I think the worst part is having to drain the coolant and replace,, lol,, yes getting the cooler out of the housing can be a little tough, I just lubed the O-rings up real good and all went back together real neat,,,the new O-rings are all black,, so need to watch part numbers an get the right ones in the right place,, 
 might try a search,,, I don't remember if I put pictures up or not...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LB0442 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 9:27am
Here is a picture of the pieces.  Like everyone said not a big job just have to ensure correct O rings go in the right spots.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 1:04am
The one gasket is "GASKET, elbow to housing (Eff. S/N 70-29018 & Up)" and the corresponding below SN 70-29018

Problem: all our 7040s engine SN's are 3D- instead of 70- They vary from 3D-34728 to 3D-43080.

I assume subtitute 3D for 70, and since all are above 29018 order the newer gasket?
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 7:09am
The cooler core must be "timed" in the housing or it is pretty much ineffective in cooling the engine oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 7:59am
70- would be way newer than any 7040. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACjack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 9:16am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

The cooler core must be "timed" in the housing or it is pretty much ineffective in cooling the engine oil.

Please explain by "timed"? On my many visits to the assembly line I never noticed that ether one of the 2 assemblers who built up these cooler assemblies ever timed (indexed) the tube nest to the housing. They did use an assembly fixture that the rear elbow, cooler housing and front end cap with water tube were mount to for proper alignment while tightening the capscrews.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 9:29am
There is an "arrow" on one end of the cooler tube bundle and there is another arrow on the front (inside towards the eng block) of the housing. They need to be close to each other but not perfect. If that cooler core is assembled 180 degrees off, there essentially is little or no oil cooling.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACjack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 7:40pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

There is an "arrow" on one end of the cooler tube bundle and there is another arrow on the front (inside towards the eng block) of the housing. They need to be close to each other but not perfect. If that cooler core is assembled 180 degrees off, there essentially is little or no oil cooling.

OK good to know. Don't recall ever seeing an arrow on the tube nest (bundle) but, do seam to recall seeing a arrow cast on the cooler housing. Thanks again for refreshing my memory. Handshake
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 7:52pm
here ya go ACjackmay not be able to see in the picture, but theres an arrow on the little tag on the tubes
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 11:01pm
I see Michael has a BIG picture window behind his tool box in his shop to look out of! nice! lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2018 at 1:55pm
Also,

I forgot to ask, if its just seeping a little oil at the connection of the rear elbow and the cooler, can a guy get away with just replacing that gasket?

Everything else is dry on that particular unit.
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 6:21am
Originally posted by shameless dude shameless dude wrote:

I see Michael has a BIG picture window behind his tool box in his shop to look out of! nice! lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LB0442 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 9:14am
The gasket is for coolant flow through the elbow into the cooler.  If it is leaking oil the O ring would be the culprit.
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