7020 Power Director

Allis 7020 with 20 speed power director.

Tractor idles good and will rev right up in park. Once I put in gear and drive it, it will rev out fine in lower gears. As I get into higher gears it will not rev up past 1800-2000 rpm. Especially in 5th it almost wants to die but pullls out of it and max throttle all I get is 1500 rpm. As soon as I push clutch in it revs right up. I just changed filter and fluid for transmission and still does this.

Obviously thinking something is wrong in the transmission. You can also hear a chatter on right side of tractor that goes away when the clutch is pushed in.

What could my problem be?

It does not smoke at all just doesn’t rev out any higher even at full throttle when driving in higher gears. I have drained and cleaned fuel tanks, new fuel lines, injectors been rebuilt, and rebuilt fuel pump.

I also have had head rebuilt with valve job including new injector cups. This was due to leaking cups.

No obstructions in air intake or collapsed hoses. I have ran without any air cleaner to just see and still the same.

You've cleaned fuel tanks and replaced lines ?? and gone thru the injectors and injection pump ?? I assume this was all in an effort to solve your lack of HP problem ?? (not a transmission problem). If fuel tanks have been cleaned and lines (hoses ?) replaced there should be gravity flow of fuel gushing from the rubber hose that comes from the left fuel tank. Have you checked that ?? There is also a chance your tractor has an electric fuel pump on it, located inside one of the side frames. It has to "motor" when the key is turned on and if it does, it must provide fuel to the injection pump under pressure. If you don't have an electric pump, the fuel supply hose from the left tank goes directly to the fuel filter. If you have the older square fuel filter that clips-on, there is a good chance the filter base is plugged with debris. Seen that many times. Disconnect lines to the filter base and blow thru every passage. Lastly, disconnect the injection pumps shut-off cable and pull the pumps lever to the rear as far as it will go and wire it there. This could be as simple as the shut-off lever not being fully turned on by a mis-adjusted shut off cable.

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Edited by bpfuelling - 26 Sep 2023 at 7:03pm

Don't dismiss the plugged fuel filter base (if it is the square clip-on filter) or the fuel shut-off lever position. You don't need a boost gauge to check those two things.

Your filter housing for a spin-on filter I have never seen plug, so I doubt that's the problem. The Roosa pump indeed has an internal screen inside the inlet part of the pump. If the pump was truly gone thru by a pump shop, I would expect it to have no paint on it OR be repainted, which would stand out against the paint on the engine.

Those prices are what I have from 2016. It could be all gummed up inside. I've seen pumps get gummed up with crummy modern diesel in a year or less. You already said it had algae, so I'd bet money it's nasty inside the pump and not working properly. 

I rebuild them all the time here, it would run about $1000 to go through it. Usually the biggest issue is cleaning it up and replacing damaged parts. If it starts ok, hot or cold, then the pump head should be usable. I've seen them coming in lately even worse than ever before, not sure what is going on. 

That's just a typical rebuild price range. If things are reusuable, I reuse them. If damaged or worn out, I replace them. No way of knowing what kind of condition it's in until it's opened up. Many times the moisture pits the rollers and cam ring, along with other key components. 

Did you get a chance to figure anything out ??

Made out in the shop for a little bit tonight. Unhooked cable and pinned back shut off. Did not make a difference when getting out and driving down the road. See picture attached. Can I screw out the stop screw all the way without hurting the pump so that fuel shut off is “more” open and then try again? I imagine it shouldn’t hurt anything, but wanted to ask before just doing it.

Been a little while and life has gotten in the way.

Pinning back the fuel shutoff did not seem to help. I’m at a loss still. I’m really thinking it may be the pump. Any other ideas?

I did loosen the shut off stop screw and tried it more open and no change. I am going to try and get boost number here soon.