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7010-7080 Traction Booster valve question

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GM Guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7010-7080 Traction Booster valve question
    Posted: 25 May 2017 at 2:52pm
Hey all,

Working on my 7030 (factory open station, so its the rod linkage as opposed to cable) and I am having issues with the 3pt not responding to any inputs from the controls, and it is raised all the way.

Before I dive in playing with adjustments, I wanted to ask:

What kind of symptoms does a stuck valve give, and how common is it? I assume it gets stuck in, and does not return?

If this is my issue, can a guy usually lube it up and free it up, or is it usually an internal problem?

Any info appreciated, Thanks!
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 3:59pm
There is a single spool that makes the hitch go up and down in the 3 point hitch valve. There are two levers on the front side of the valve (under the seat) that push the spool to the rear for lift and allow the spring loaded spool to come forward to lower. One lever is for lift/lower. The other lever is for Traction Booster. If the hitch is stuck in the "UP" position and both levers are away from the spools front end, the spool is stuck. It may be helped by removing the two screws on the tin cover at the rear and tap the spool forward using penetrating oil on both sides to work it free.  If one of the levers is holding the spool rearward, you have a linkage issue of some kind.
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GM Guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 7:19pm
Thank you!

I will see what I can find! :)
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 9:42pm
If valves been apart, someone may have not put plastic shim between valves and was not torque corrective.    MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2017 at 12:31pm
Ok, the spool was stuck. I removed the cover and tapped it forward till the 3pt dropped. it is nice and oily and clean, but it tapped in pretty hard. I hosed it down in PB blaster and tapped it in some more.

I cant see the front side, but it too is nice and oily, so I dont think rust is the issue.

The stack has been apart, it has been converted to the new style couplers at some point, then someone added a cable controlled 3rd valve as well, so I would like to know more about this plastic shim. where does it go, and what does it do if missing?


Also, one important question: now that the 3pt is down, is there any harm in running it with that spool tapped almost all the way forward? I got too many broke down tractors and need to get one in the field, and this is the closest to going.

When bringing it home months ago it was running warm. I assume this was caused by overheated oil heating the cooling stack thanks to the 3pt allways in lift mode?

thank you all for the great advice!
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2017 at 10:15pm
Won't hurt any thing to leave arms down. Could adjust nuts on top of right lift arm to where arms don't go all the way to end of cylinder.
The plastic washers go on the four bolts that hold stack to gather between all sections and end cover.   MACK
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Tenn allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tenn allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2017 at 7:22am
I noticed yesterday that my 8070 lift arms wouldn't go down there is a gap between the spring loaded valve and the mechanism that moves it but I can push the valve in and out with my hand returns by itself just doesn't reach the mechanism is it just not coming out far enough traction booster is all the way back so it's not interfering with the valve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2017 at 6:11am
On that 7030, loosen each of the four tie bolts one flat on a nut and see what happens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2017 at 1:36pm
Tenn. Allis.

Are you for sure moving the actual spool, or just thepring loaded sleeve that is retained by a snap ring?

I highly suggest doing what the guys above told me to do, take that little cover off and see if the spool is stuck. I hammered mine in lightly, drove hard the whole way. I hope yours is not that way.
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Tenn allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tenn allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2017 at 3:42pm
I'll try that tomorrow I'm not sure it's moving the spool didn't think of that
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