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7010 ps

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Joe(TX) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(TX) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7010 ps
    Posted: 07 Mar 2019 at 8:13pm
I looked at a 7010 powershift today. When I tried to back it up it acted like the brakes were applied. In forward it was not as bad. I did notice the brakes applied when barely touched. Is the dragging due to the brake valve adjusted too tight? There is no free play in the pedal.
1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sodfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2019 at 9:04pm
I don't know if this is normal but my 7010 does the same thing when the oil is cold. It is not noticeable after the oil warms up.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2019 at 9:05pm
The brake pedal should have a very small amount of free travel. May be able to feel it with fingers on pedals.
PS sounds like the two center clutch packs needs new drive plates. If you back it up a steep slope, does it act like it slips until it moves a foot or so then locks in?           MACK
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Joe(TX) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(TX) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2019 at 10:40pm
The engine pulls down when backing. Also some while in forward. I did not drive it very far since I had trouble getting it to back out of the spot it was in,
1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Kevin in WA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kevin in WA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2019 at 10:49pm
If you were in high range with cold oil, it sounds fairly normal, hard to say wthout a video of it.
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Joe(TX) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(TX) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2019 at 10:55pm
Low range 1st and 3rd gear. Didn't want to move in high range. By the way it was 70 degrees out.
1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Ron(AB) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron(AB) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2019 at 11:32pm
Joe,
That's normal...there is a lot of friction/force to overcome 6 forward gears/clutch packs to one in reverse.
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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2019 at 6:46pm
At 70 degrees it should be working perfectly after a short warm up , theres seems a problem with the reverse gear set up in a lot of these, ?

Edited by DougG - 08 Mar 2019 at 6:47pm
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2019 at 6:57pm
Reverse clutch gets abused because of two reasons: Reason #1.  an improperly adjusted transmission brake on the inching pedal itself causing the brake to come on while the tractor is still rolling. Reason #2.   an operator who hasn't been instructed on how to USE the transmission brake. It is NOT designed to stop the tractor. The wheel brakes are for that. So, when a tractor is used on a round baler and makes 100 big round bales with an uneducated  driver stopping a 12,000 lb tractor and a baler with a 1800 lb bale inside of it, the reverse clutch get abused needlessly if he is pushing the pedal all the way down for each bale eject.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2019 at 9:25pm
Brings up a question. Do you have to clutch to kick the Powershift into neutral? Your bales done now it's time to tie and kick it. Can you go to neutral and just use the wheel brakes to stop inatead of clutching?

Edited by exSW - 08 Mar 2019 at 9:25pm
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2019 at 9:57pm
Not a good idea, as it will just wear out the shifter mechanism faster.
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exSW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2019 at 10:16am
Thank you. Didn't do it won't start.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigal121892 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2019 at 7:10pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Not a good idea, as it will just wear out the shifter mechanism faster.

This has my curiosity going, how does shifting the power shift into neutral, without clutching wear out the shifter mechanism faster?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2019 at 7:20pm
If you are shifting from 6th all the way to neutral just to stop forward motion, why would you want to do that 50 times or more a day when baling hay??? You must not have ever worked on any of those detent mechanisms, as they break often enough as it is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigal121892 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2019 at 7:47pm
Ok, that I can understand, didn't think about the detent's. Never baled hay, either chopped it, or hired it stacked.
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Michael V (NM) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2019 at 8:35pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:


Not a good idea, as it will just wear out the shifter mechanism faster.

I guess my 8010 is fairly tough, has front end loader, so it gets a LOT of 4th-to R shifts...try to use inch petal little as possible, but setting square bales on a trailer tests it well...
I got a 930 CAT payloader now...sure ought to be better cause that's what it's built for...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 8:41pm
My neighbor has a 1980 PS 7010.  He has the issue of it not wanting to go into park.  Looking for both an operator and service manual.  Also says it doesnt shift as easily as it used to.  Same issue of cable adjustment possibly??  Are these adjustments relatively easy to make once he locates the correct manuals?
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 9:25pm
Could be old cables requiring more effort to move them. It could be cable adjustments. It could also be the park linkage inside the rear end shift cover is WORN OUT. Been there and dun that many times.
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tom71 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 10:26pm
Thank you.  Will explore all options starting with cable adjustments.  Just as soon as the manual arrives to guide us in doing it correctly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2019 at 8:04pm
Has anyone on here recently rebuilt a power shift transmission on a 7010?  Or any 7000 series powershift?  Or anyone have an idea on the cost and if parts are even available.  No agco dealers close in the area here to even ask.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2019 at 8:06pm
The only thing you could be sure of, is the price of a gasket/seal kit which is what would be required (at a minimum) to tear one down and reassemble it. Any other expenses would be related to what type of failure has actually occurred.
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