70 series 4 bottom plow

Just make sure when your working on it up in the air you put some sort of block or jack stand so no accidents happen

 That is with out a doubt a series 70 plow with the vertical pivot hitch. On this plow you don't use the top link. The place that looks like where you attach the top link is not for the top link. It's for a part called a trunnion (part #70340818).  You can use the plow without the trunnion with no ill affects. The plow should dig down until the gauge wheel stops it. If it don't then the shares need to be replaced. Before you replace the shares made sure that the pivot points on the plow do indeed pivot.

Edited by DennisA (IL) - 16 Apr 2017 at 7:47pm

Gerald dont you still have to get some part numbers off ether moldboard, shine, or share to identify what no. bottom it is for replacement parts

I thought so just didn't want to put my foot in mouth lol and say the wrong thing. Thanks

old farmer wrote: It looks to me like the gage set to close to the ground which hold plow up on rear. We always had the gage set to not touch the ground until we had set the plow to good UNTIL the final adjustmens made always worked at the dealership.

Looks like the tail wheel is sitting on the lower ground then the gauge wheel.

old farmer wrote: It looks to me like the gage set to close to the ground which hold plow up on rear. We always had the gage set to not touch the ground until we had set the plow to good UNTIL the final adjustmens made always worked at the dealership.

If you read his OP, he states the gauge wheel does not touch the ground.

The Joys of rusty bolts! Caught a rock...

Thanks Gerald, I will check out the plow 101 info. I still could not locate any numbers on the frame but will check the back of the shares when I get a chance to take 1 off. Neat plow, it got the job done, just need to figure out the rear. The way I look at it, the trailing wheel goes to the same depth that the rear plow cut. As it sits now, all bottoms flat on the ground, the trailing wheel is against the stop which means it will not go deeper than the rear plow. The guage wheel is approximatly 10" off the ground. The picture is decieving, but I measured it with a tape when on level ground. Therefore I came up with the plow should run 10" deep. ?? 

On some semi-mount plows you will see a top link bracket. This is used for the weight transfer for the particular tractor pulling it.
I have an Oliver Semi Mount and in the manual is a pic of an Oliver with top link attached describing this setup.
All tractors do not use trailing arms to sense load.
MF is another one that used the top link for this purpose.
This plow simply could have been used by another brand tractor.

This plow DEFINITLY needs new shares! The landslide shown needs to be replaced also when trying to clean up the furrow.
New shares should be installed FIRST or you will possibly be returning the adjustments back to where you started after shares are replaced.
When you get shares and if there is a choice, go for the heavy duty, they were thicker at the point. I had on to go down under like a stubbed toe, and it messed up the plowing job as you could go to the spot where contact was made. There used to be special shear bolts also that helps to keep the plow frame from twisting over time.

BTDT many times

Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 18 Apr 2017 at 8:47am

I'd wish for a double acting cylinder and hydraulics for the rear wheel. On my gas 4020 there is about 350 psi minimum with a single acting cylinder, far too much to allow manually closing a cylinder for hooking it to an implement. Could be a limiting factor in lifting the rear wheel to let the plow go in the ground.

The rear wheel rides in the furrow left by the rear bottom when plowing. When lifting the plow it takes two operations, lifting the front with the tractor hitch and lifting the rear with the rear wheel. When the front hitch pivots the link bar on top turns the rear wheel so the plow can turn in a short space. And it takes two operations to put the plow in the ground, lower the front with the tractor hitch and lower the rear by lifting the rear wheel.

When finishing the last furrows in the middle of my field with my semi mounted 2000 monoframe, I held the rear bottom shallow with the rear wheel so as to not leave a big ridge, or I lifted the front with the tractor hitch to make the front plow shallow while the rear did full depth, depending on the direction with respect to the last furrows that sometimes overlapped from opposite directions.

Gerald J.

Thats interesting Dennis that the stop doesn"t appear in the parts book. It looks factory and even has a blind nut that a adjusting bolt would go in so it could be adjusted. The adjusting bolt has been removed to get maximum depth I suppose. The second picture shows it resting againt the stop. Looks like new shares are needed to further diagnose my issue. That may be all I need to do. Will be this fall till I plow again unless I get some extra time to take the shares off ahead of time. All the bolts holding the plow shanks on need to be replaced. When #2 broke it took 2 hours to get the broken bolts out. Rusted in like you wouldn't believe. Between heat and 3 broken drill bits they finally came out, but only because I drilled most of the bolt out before I could drive it out. I put grade 8 up top and grade 5 for the shear bolt. Also put never seize on the bolts to make future replacement easier. Mikez may have a book for it I hope.

As I beat the dead horse one more time.....how are new shares going to go deeper than a dead stop holding it up? Not that new shares are ever a bad thing, but I just don't see it. If the plow is skidding, not penetrating sod, riding high not on the stop, yep new shares needed. How will new shares go deeper than a dead stop?

That's what we are trying to figure out. The trailing wheel is behind the rear plow, so it should ride as deep as the rear plow goes. It would help to see the setup of the plow in a manual which is what I trying to find now. It was mentioned earlier about the rotation of the hitch needs to be to the left as the tractor sits in the previous furrow to make the plow level again. Without the book, my thinking from previous post is you would go into the field with the plow being level side to side. The next round, as you pull into the furrow, get off the tractor and rotate the hitch with the adjuster to regain plow level. Then you are set to plow the rest of the field. My dads Oliver 3 bottom has this built in to the 3 point hitch, as both sides have a crook or bend where the arms attach which rotates the plow to the left making it level when you pull into the furrow on round 2. Makes sense to me but what do I know. This one has thrown me for a loop. I am gathering info to solve the puzzle. I may be way off with that conclusion.

Guess it wouldn't matter if the the book is snap coupler. Does it show the screw jack that rotates the plow left to right? Not sure what bracket your talking about? Where the plow would rotate?