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rustyorange45 
Silver Level Access
Joined: 01 Sep 2013
Location: Vernon Co. MO.
Points: 392
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 Topic: 3 way ball valve
Posted: 08 Oct 2016 at 2:48pm |
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Has anyone ever put a 3 way hydraulic ball valve on their transport valve? I was thinking it would work to hold my loader up then I could put a second outlet on my WD45 to run my lift cylinder on my rotary mower Will it work?
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1953 WD45 WF/Model 90 Loader, Oxnard Rear Blade, 80R Mower, Model 209 Disc, WD Rear Mounted Scoop, Model 184 & 160 Rotary Mowers, 1952 CA NF/L306CA mower, 1953 CA WF/Model 8 Loader.
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Orange Tractors
Silver Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Butler, MO
Points: 172
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Posted: 08 Oct 2016 at 5:52pm |
Hi neighbor,
Not sure I'm translating what you wrote properly, but you will still need a return line or hose to tank. Typically on WD's it is plumbed to the drain plug.
That is not even getting into the different pressures and volumes required.
Robert
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Dans 7080
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Joined: 05 Feb 2010
Points: 1146
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Posted: 08 Oct 2016 at 6:26pm |
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We had a ball valve on the loader hose. When you wanted to use the remote you just turn the valve. It would hold the loader up. The ball valve in the hose will also allow you to use the snap coupler lift independently.
Edited by Dans 7080 - 08 Oct 2016 at 7:20pm
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When someone tells you Nothings Impossible, Tell them to slam a revolving door
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
Points: 9262
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Posted: 08 Oct 2016 at 6:36pm |
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I just put a couple pieces of angle iron on the loader cylinders, then let it down on those, and then disconnected the hose in back.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 53235
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Posted: 08 Oct 2016 at 7:19pm |
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I have a gate valve, on the D-15 (II) let the loader down, shut the valve, and use the 3 point... Its a 1 way cyl, on the loader...
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Coke-in-MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41817
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Posted: 08 Oct 2016 at 7:26pm |
You can buy a diverter valve made for hydraulics to change port delivery . To use a ball valve - 3 way you will need to find one rated at the hydraulic pressure - it will not be a brass ball valve used for plumbing as the pressure on them will be between 125 psi and maximum of 500 psi . Beyond that range you need STEEL body or cast (malleable) iron rated for high pressure - same as fittings used as plumbing is rated at 125 psi , unless sch 80 or higher rated (XH or XXH) - this includes galvanised as well as cast fittings made of water or gas use . I keep hearing well the pipe fitting works - it will until it fails - then a accident waiting to happen .
There are solonoid valves on the market now for hydraulics that you can control the port selection by switch or button to open and close ports as needed - hold open or just instant open close as desired
Edited by Coke-in-MN - 08 Oct 2016 at 7:30pm
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7433
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Posted: 08 Oct 2016 at 9:36pm |
 Coke-in-MN wrote:
You can buy a diverter valve made for hydraulics to change port delivery . To use a ball valve - 3 way you will need to find one rated at the hydraulic pressure - it will not be a brass ball valve used for plumbing as the pressure on them will be between 125 psi and maximum of 500 psi . Beyond that range you need STEEL body or cast (malleable) iron rated for high pressure - same as fittings used as plumbing is rated at 125 psi , unless sch 80 or higher rated (XH or XXH) - this includes galvanised as well as cast fittings made of water or gas use . I keep hearing well the pipe fitting works - it will until it fails - then a accident waiting to happen .
There are solonoid valves on the market now for hydraulics that you can control the port selection by switch or button to open and close ports as needed - hold open or just instant open close as desired
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I agree, you definitely need to use a valve that is capable of handling the high pressure of hydraulics. No hardware store plumbing valves here if you value your life.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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shameless (ne)
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Joined: 08 Jul 2016
Location: nebraska
Points: 7463
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Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 1:21am |
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I agree with John(MI)
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SteveC(NS)
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Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Location: Nova Scotia
Points: 663
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Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 7:21am |
Here's my installation for that purpose.
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/uploads/1579/flow_director_for_front_lift_or_3pt.JPG
Sorry, that didn't seem to work. I don't seem to be able to post pics that are in my file manager. 
Edited by SteveC(NS) - 09 Oct 2016 at 7:32am
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton Co, IA
Points: 5636
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Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 8:31am |
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rustyorange45
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Joined: 01 Sep 2013
Location: Vernon Co. MO.
Points: 392
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Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 9:38am |
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I can buy a hydraulic 3 way valve (5140 PSI). Put 2 couplers on it, one for the loader and one for whatever I want to hook up. I just have single action cylinders on my implements and loader. I will use 1/2" NPT hydraulic nipples to connect to transport valve and couplers. If I valve off the loader and nothing is hooked to the other coupler, my lift arms will work independently of my loader. It will work that way won't it?
Edited by rustyorange45 - 09 Oct 2016 at 2:58pm
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1953 WD45 WF/Model 90 Loader, Oxnard Rear Blade, 80R Mower, Model 209 Disc, WD Rear Mounted Scoop, Model 184 & 160 Rotary Mowers, 1952 CA NF/L306CA mower, 1953 CA WF/Model 8 Loader.
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mdm1
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Onalaska, WI
Points: 2664
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Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 5:38pm |
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I mounted a 3way valve on my fender. Works good and is convenient to use. I also put a valve on the loader line so I could shut off the loader and still put the rear lift arms in a somewhat fixed height when using a brush mower. I put the arms where I want them and then change the 3way to the loader. Hope that makes sense.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22824
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Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 6:26pm |
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Forget about the transport valve. Buy a diverter valve and plumb pressure from one hole of the original valve. Plug all the other holes. Connect your loader to one outlet of the diverter and your remote to the other. That's the only way they will be independent of each other.You won't be able to use both at the same time, but you can switch from one to the other and keep the one not being used up in the air.
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SteveC(NS)
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Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Location: Nova Scotia
Points: 663
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Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 7:59pm |
Gerald, Thanks for posting MY pic that I couldn't . Works great use one accessory or the other while the unused device is up outa the way. Gerald if you could point me in the right direction of how to post pics I have on file I'd appreciate it. Otherwise you may have to stand in for me on future pic posts. 
P.S. not a threat. 
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