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28 ver's 38 why did Allis disadvantage the selves

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Macon Rounds View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Macon Rounds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 5:55pm
I agree with the traction boost advantage. But that is another discussion.

My original question was
28 rears versus 38 rears.

Allis "engineered" and kept 28" rear tires on up thru many of the 180 tractors. Price may have been a primary factor but field performance in my experience is the taller tire wins every time. Traction, ride etc.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Macon Rounds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 7:15pm
My question is not a BRAND comparison.

This is an Allis engineering "why" question.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wekracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 7:55pm
In my opinion you can’t do a fair comparison and neglect allis engineering. Farming at that time was the same as now. Farmers wanted value. Allis had the advantage because of their engineering

All other brands in the snap coupler era added more cast iron and taller tires. More dry weight meant more expense as well as tire size. Allis tractors are known for being lighter more powerful and better designed to get that power to the ground without adding costly weight.

My dad loves to tell a story of when grandpa bought a new CA in 52. Dad was plowing a field across the fence from a neighbor who ran farmalls. It was also new M or H don’t remember but was similar horsepower. There were wet spots in the fields and the neighbor was pulling a trip plow I think, might have been hydraulic but was draw bar hitch either way and dads plow was pin hitch with traction booster. The neighbor kept getting stuck and having to unhook and pull his plow out. Dad never got stuck. Just kept on going. He said at the end that neighbor was pissed and left saying how the hell does that little tractor plow where I can’t. Dad said they were plowing the same depth with the same size plow. The neighbor later called the traction booster a cheater stick.

So long story later. If allis could make a better designed tractor and sell them cheaper it’s a better business model. That’s why I think it’s apples and oranges if you don’t count snap coupler and allis engineering.

Ps. Deere still loves heavy cast iron.

Edited by wekracer - 11 Jun 2018 at 8:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Macon Rounds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 8:20pm
Yep i agree. Tracton Boost is awesome !

In early 1970's, We sold our MD and MTA Diesel and bought a D17 with Tracton Boost, we were never disapointed in its plowing performance. Or its Power director advantage in baling.

Nice Story about your CA.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 8:35pm
My experience has been that tall skinny tires weren't as good in lighter soils.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calvin Schmidt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 8:41pm
Brian, My D-17 IV has standard front spindles and sits a little low on the front. Front tires are 7.50 x 16". The weight of the rotary hoe makes it look level in the picture. When they came from the factory with 13.6 x 38"'s and the tall front axle spindles, it sat low on the rear. Would like to find a long spindle front axle. I think it might be very close to level with the 14.9 rears. I changed to 38's more than 20 years ago for row cultivating kidney beans. Have a 16" single front that I'm thinking of putting in and I think it just might sit level. At one time there was a D-17 III that was a factory 38" option with the tall front end in the area.

Edited by Calvin Schmidt - 11 Jun 2018 at 8:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 12:13pm
Originally posted by Macon Rounds Macon Rounds wrote:

So,,,, ilGleaner :-)

a 45 hp tractor with 14.9 x 28" tires can out plow/pull....

a 45 hp tractor with 14.9 x 38" tires...

I don't understand that theory John ????


At the time no one was selling tractors of 45 hp with 14.9 x 38. They were selling mostly 12.4 x 38 or at best 13.6 x 38.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CaseyCreek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 1:57pm
Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:

38's were an option on many tractors, but I suspect the dealers didn't order them since so many tractors were sold by price.
$$$


I used to have a 185 with factory 38s.  The extra height/diameter was nice, but I got rid of the tractor because it had been butchered by a previous owner.  I still miss the tires, though.

I converted another 185 that I run to work with the 18.4x30 rims.  The difference on hilly, rough ground was very noticeable over the 28s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 3:47pm
The mighty "M" Farmall weighed 5200 lbs without fluid and had 12.4 x 38 rear tires.  A WD-45 gas with fluid (fluid was standard equipment) and 14.9 x 28 rear tires weighed 45 to 4600 lbs.  Which one handled a 3- 14's plow better ??  In many conditions the physically smaller WD-45 did because the weight of the plow was part of the tractor thru the miracle of Traction Booster. Smaller tires and a smaller LIGHTER chassis cost less $$$$$$$$$$$$ to build and would perform just about as well as the larger heavier tractor most of the time. Then, there was the amount of fuel used each day......End of story.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daehler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 4:35pm
Story that I've been told, back when our WD 45 was new, my grandpa was in a field with a 8 ft cobbled together horse drawn disk and neighbor comes down with his JD A and 8 ftJD disk to help. After a couple rounds granpa laps him , so he stops and says our disk pulls easier and they switch disks. After another couple rounds grandpa laps him again. He stops again, gets his disc back on and tells granpa that it looks like he didnt need any help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 10:27pm
I run 15.5 x 38's on my 175d that I do custom brush hogging with...gives a smoother ride and has a better speed selection. Also, with an 8' mower and the narrower tire I can get a little wider cut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 4:55am
I'm an AC fan and we had a WD45,CA and an Oliver 77 when I was growing up.Although the 77 had less HP than the WD 45 it had 38" rear tires  on a dead pull if it was geared down the 77 would would pull more than the WD45 every time.You always see tractor pullers put on larger diameter tires you never see them drop diameter taller tires just out pull shorter tires in almost all situations.I used to pull a WC with 36" tires way better puller than using 28" on the same tractor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 7:02am
From the Firestone tractor tire footprint chart.  A 12.4 x 38 tire has 140 square inches of rubber on the ground. A 14.9 x 28 has 145 square inches.  Your Oliver 77 comparison fails to say what each tractor actually weighed, which you may not have known at the time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 7:15am
Originally posted by Gary Burnett Gary Burnett wrote:

I'm an AC fan and we had a WD45,CA and an Oliver 77 when I was growing up.Although the 77 had less HP than the WD 45 it had 38" rear tires  on a dead pull if it was geared down the 77 would would pull more than the WD45 every time.You always see tractor pullers put on larger diameter tires you never see them drop diameter taller tires just out pull shorter tires in almost all situations.I used to pull a WC with 36" tires way better puller than using 28" on the same tractor.
Was the 77 upgraded with wider than stock tires? Many were a long time ago. Was the 77 engine upgraded to 88 or super 77 overhaul? Some had the entire block replaced with a newer, bigger cubic inch block from another tractor. Besides that, a 77 IS a good puller even in stock form and was very easy to boost rpm a little.

As far as pulling goes, most pulls are on gravely tracks with little traction. At those tracks, 14.9 x 38 does best, at least for my brother and his D17. He tried about every size he could. It is like how an old Model T could goes through more snow than the Chevy even though the Chevy had wider tires. But in the field is what counts and the D17 does great with 16.9 x 28.

Another thing with pulling rules, at least around here, is that they usually put a limits on tires. For us, the rules stated that up to 5500# you could not go beyond 14.9 width. That means that if your tires were 12.4 wide stock, you could widen to 14.9. But they forced you to stay with the stock diameter. So a WD45 could only run 14.9x28 and most came that way stock, while an M, which came with 12.4 x 36 stock (36 was getting tough to find so they allowed 38) the M could run 14.9 x 38.

All that said, I took lots of 1st place trophies with my D17 using fluid filled 16.9 x 28 tires.......... as long as I stuck to pulling on wet sticky black dirt or clay tracks. I stayed away from slippery gravel tracks. And I never pulled below 6500# and I pulled all the way up to 8500#. On sticky wet clay tracks I did best and easily beat much bigger tractors like 720s and 880s.

I also plowed at the local threshing/tractor show. Pulling a 4 x 14 mounted plow, 9 inches deep and I plowed where all the others could not. In hard, dry, black dirt and blue clay in alfalfa sod . I did it in 2nd gear low range while the 560s, 720/730s, and 880s could not pull a 3 bottom. They were forced to hook up to 2 bottoms. A friend of mine, when I showed up that first year, said I may as well park that little tractor, as even his big 880 couldn't plow with a 3 bottom. I said I'd like to give it a try and away I went. My friend said if he hadn't seen it he wouldn't have believed it.

So that's all I need to know when it comes to tire size.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 7:22am
Antique Clubs around here allow a 15.5 x 38 tire maximum size OR any size that doesn't have a footprint larger than a 14.9 x 38 or 15.5 x 38, so 16.9 x 28's are OK fine and maybe even an 18.4 x 28 or 16.9 x 30  ???.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 7:34am
*NATPA TIRE CHART:  
0-4500# class 170 sq. in. 4501-6500# class 229 sq. in. 6501-8500# class 300 sq. in.
13.6 x 38 - 168 sq. in. 14.9 x 38 - 200 sq. in. 18.4 x 38 - 300 sq. in.
14.9 x 28 - 170 sq. in. 15.5 x 38 - 189 sq. in. 16.9 x 38 - 252 sq. in.
16.9 x 34 - 229 sq. in. 18.4 x 28 - 250 sq. in 


Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 7:47am
Pulls are one thing, suped-up tractors in most cases, with modified drawbars and non stock wheels and aluminum parts pulling on gravel tracks. I haven't pulled in almost 20 years and don't look to do so again for a very long time, if ever. Field performance is what I like and I like my 200 and 7050 best for that. My days of doing serious field work with a WD or D17 were done back in the early 1990's. I suppose if I was running a new Magnum I'd say the same about running the 200 and 7050. How could Allis ever have put those tractors out with the lack of features that I need today? Right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 8:25am
The 77 was stock as was the WD45 and the 77 had less power so it'd pull slower but on the hills around here pulling a square baler with a wagon behind it the 77 would go where the WD45 would spin out.Also the 77 had 6 speeds forward.As far as tractor pulling I used   to pull quite a lot and mostly on hard red clay tracks that  take a lot of power and I can't ever remember being out pulled by a tractor with 28" rear tires when I was pulling my
Cockshutt 50 with 14.9 X 38 tires in the 4500 and 5000 lb classes.BTW the 50's came stock with 14..9 X 38,18.4 X 34 and 23.1 X 26 tires.
Comparing similar tractors I have 2 Oliver 1550 tractors with 38" rear tires and
an Oliver 1600 Utility with 28" rear tires and even though the 1600 has more power and
a little bigger tractor the 1550's are  more capable pulling a heavy round baler on the steep hills I bale on pulling and stopping.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 2:35pm
A Cockshutt 50 it is a big tractor with 55 PTO HP and is an exceptional tractor at that power (therefore larger tires) so I'd believe a 45 would have trouble keeping up on the track. Put it in the field with a plow against a D17 and you may see something different, I don't know. I have never been around one. But from the 560 to the 880 to the 720, I have been in the same field with and those were proven lacking when it came to plowing as in the case I mentioned.

If the 45 was spinning and it were mine, I'd weight it down some and then climb those hills.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 5:08pm
Well I couldn't care less about the plowing thing haven't plowed with a moldboard in 40 years and probably never will.But when you're comparing the D17 plowing with a mounted plow and tractors pulling trailer plows the thing that needs to be considered is the trailer plow is set at 8" and will be at 8" deep no matter what.But with the D17 you set it at
8" deep but as the Traction Booster kicks in it starts to lift the plow so you might go to
7",6".5" or what ever so you're not plowing the depth the tractor with the trailer plow is plowing anymore,its plowing 8" period.You hook the D17  with 28" tires to the trailer plow and
the tractors with the 38" tires are most likely going to out plow you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 6:27pm
Originally posted by Lonn Lonn wrote:

Pulls are one thing, suped-up tractors in most cases, with modified drawbars and non stock wheels and aluminum parts pulling on gravel tracks. I haven't pulled in almost 20 years and don't look to do so again for a very long time, if ever. Field performance is what I like and I like my 200 and 7050 best for that. My days of doing serious field work with a WD or D17 were done back in the early 1990's. I suppose if I was running a new Magnum I'd say the same about running the 200 and 7050. How could Allis ever have put those tractors out with the lack of features that I need today? Right?
UUUUMMMM, so Allis was ahead of the class in the 8000 series back in the day, that was back in the 19 Eighties, tractor engineering had new stuff ready to keep them in front and good for farming,, don't quite understand your sentence on what you need today ?   

Edited by DougG - 13 Jun 2018 at 6:31pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 7060 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 10:23pm
Smaller tires can be just as efficient as the bigger tires as long as your horsepower is getting to the ground. Allis wanted to pull your same size Impliment faster, not a bigger impliment the same speed as the competitor. It doesn’t take more tire to pull the same impliment one mph faster and get the same area covered.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 6:52am
Originally posted by Gary Burnett Gary Burnett wrote:

Well I couldn't care less about the plowing thing haven't plowed with a moldboard in 40 years and probably never will.But when you're comparing the D17 plowing with a mounted plow and tractors pulling trailer plows the thing that needs to be considered is the trailer plow is set at 8" and will be at 8" deep no matter what.But with the D17 you set it at
8" deep but as the Traction Booster kicks in it starts to lift the plow so you might go to
7",6".5" or what ever so you're not plowing the depth the tractor with the trailer plow is plowing anymore,its plowing 8" period.You hook the D17  with 28" tires to the trailer plow and
the tractors with the 38" tires are most likely going to out plow you.
It's obvious you have not done much plowing. Set correctly, the traction booster will not lift the plow out of the ground at all. If the shares are good, the plow sucks itself into the ground. The traction booster only puts a slight upward pressure to carry some or all of the weight of the plow and can even carry the weight of the dirt BEFORE it will actually raise the plow. If you are plowing and your plow is varying an inch or two then you have not set your plow and tractor correctly. Now I don't know if one or both of us are in an argumentative mood or what but those words I will stand by forever and a day.


Edited by Lonn - 14 Jun 2018 at 6:53am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 6:56am
Originally posted by DougG DougG wrote:

Originally posted by Lonn Lonn wrote:

Pulls are one thing, suped-up tractors in most cases, with modified drawbars and non stock wheels and aluminum parts pulling on gravel tracks. I haven't pulled in almost 20 years and don't look to do so again for a very long time, if ever. Field performance is what I like and I like my 200 and 7050 best for that. My days of doing serious field work with a WD or D17 were done back in the early 1990's. I suppose if I was running a new Magnum I'd say the same about running the 200 and 7050. How could Allis ever have put those tractors out with the lack of features that I need today? Right?
UUUUMMMM, so Allis was ahead of the class in the 8000 series back in the day, that was back in the 19 Eighties, tractor engineering had new stuff ready to keep them in front and good for farming,, don't quite understand your sentence on what you need today ?   
That was sarcasm and a bit of truth. The truth part is if you put me in a brand new tractor, I'll probably never want to go back to a 45 year old tractor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 7:01am
Yea I've always heard that argument about the traction booster but if the arms come up the plow comes up the same distance.At any rate to test pulling power with a tractor plowing
every tractor needs to hook to the same plow set the same way just like at a tractor pull
all the tractors in the same class hook to the same sled not each tractor has their own sled set up by each tractor owner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 7:31am
Yes if the arms come up beyond taking slack out, you are right but if you adjust correctly, and that takes trial and error time, the arms will only put tension on the lift links. Took me aa hour or so of tinkering the first time I tried it. It does work that way. I had an uncle that was an expert in everything Allis and he was very good at setting a plow and for that matter an All-Crop.

For pulling, like I said, I stuck to sticky high traction tracks where I relied on my governor to carry me through tough spots on the track where a 720 would fall on it's face. I only pulled in farm stock....... well at first it was called "stock" class but then as the rules morphed into "stock = stock appearance", whatever that means, after complaints that the open class losers threw their tin work and original drawbar back on and non sharpened tires and started pulling against mostly stock tractors, they came up with "farm stock" class and renamed "stock" to "classic" whatever that means. I did good in both classes but best in farm stock. Anyhow it's a long story about the politics of tractor pulling and how the greenie weenies always voted themselves onto the member board to continually morph the rules from true stock to something other than stock.

Sticking to tough high traction tracks negated even a suped-up 2 lunger for a while. My last year pulling was 2001, #3 girl came into our lives that year and #4 girl in 2004 and life sped up too much to pull anymore. ................. how's that for rambling? Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 12:20pm
ACTUALLY,, from an old AC exec, during the early days and during the war era there was a shortage of rubber - each mfg was allotted just so many tons.. SO,  the design of smaller diameter tires used less rubber therefore they could sell more tractors on pneumatics  with the same amount of allotted rubber than the competition ... for what that's worth to the discussion..
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 6:25pm
I'll add some notes here:

First... TRACTIVE EFFORT in agricultural application, is very, very, very well documented by the white paper published by Wismer-Luth many decades ago.  The results of empirical data are very clear-  larger diameter produces greater tractive effort than smaller diameter, and greatest draft capacity appears with least amount of undriven wheels... and greatest ratio of weight on driven wheels... finally, the amount of lowest drag.

Harold Luth just happens to be a family boating friend of many generations.  On many occasions, I've chatted with him about rolling dynamics and his tractive effort prediction calculations, and the reality is, that a larger diameter, but narrower tire will provide greater agricultural tractive effort than a smaller diameter, wider tire, because the rolling resistance drops faster with diameter, while greater width INCREASES rolling resistance.

The suggestion that it takes 'more power' to turn a larger tire is inaccurate.  It takes more torque, which as noted by others above, is corrected for by gearing.

One of the really big reasons for smaller drive tires has nothing to do with traction... it has to do with implements... and forklift trucks ESPECIALLY have to contend with this issue-  LOAD CENTER.    Remember- these tractors have lift arms... when you lift from the back of a tractor, the implement is back there somewhere... and if it's far, far, far back from the tractor, you'll have front wheels in the air pronto.  Just as important, a rigidly-mounted ground-engaging implement behind, will 'force' the machine to steer straight, or if one wheel slips, pull to the side.  The solution, is to keep the overhanging load very short, and keep the ground engagement point as close to the center of the rear tires' contact points as possible.

IF the implement is wide, it'll strike the tires sooner when the tires have larger diameter.

On a forklift, the greatest lifting capacity occurs when the load's center of gravity is directly above the drive axle centerline... but in most circumstances, the forklift can't be designed to 'straddle' a load this way... the mast must be offset forward of the axle.  When you look at extreme-capacity machinery moving forklifts, you'll see they use small diameter wheels, because the offset between load center and axle is very small... hence, the amount of counterweight is much less, and the length of that counterweight's distance away (because that's counterweight leverage) is much smaller, providing tighter turning circle (shorter wheelbase, less overhang of counterweight)

Same goes for tractors.  Snap-coupler impements needed to stay close to the axle centerline in order to work best.  Smaller tires allowed that.

Oh, and look at the first pneumatic tractor tires... notice what size they used?  It was basically same carcass as used in other existing applications...
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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