262 Diesel Engine Dim from Deck to Crank bores?

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   Hi guys,

Machine shop is looking over my block right now...they say it looks good.

However, he had a question what is the nominal dimension from the block deck to the bores for the crank?  Is there dimension a guys doesn't want to drop below?

Thanks in advance for the help,
Terry

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nowaktj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Location: Elk River, MN Points: 726	Post Options Post Reply Quote nowaktj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 262 Diesel Engine Dim from Deck to Crank bores? Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 4:07pm
	Hi guys, Machine shop is looking over my block right now...they say it looks good. However, he had a question what is the nominal dimension from the block deck to the bores for the crank? Is there dimension a guys doesn't want to drop below? Thanks in advance for the help, Terry
	D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G

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Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 5:17pm
	Are they trying to correct a counter bore issue? What I've found is they will have to correct the counter bores by cutting them all to where it corrects the deepest bore, then surface the deck down to get the correct standout. From there, you will have to assemble your pistons and RECONDITIONED rods and measure the standout of the pistons above the deck. Minimum is .002 above max is .029 above. When my machine shop did mine, he said his book showed .040 as max. A compressed head gasket will be about .055 thick. If you find that your pistons stand out too high, the crowns of the pistons will have to be shaved off. If not off by much, the wrist pin bushings could be offset bored if your shop has a pin boring machine. The .002 to .029 came directly from the original blueprints for the 262 on file at AGCO. If it were mine, I'd shoot for the upper range of piston standout. These old diesels were on the low side of compression so every little bit helps, especially on cold start up.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

GregLawlerMinn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lawler, Mn Points: 1226	Post Options Post Reply Quote GregLawlerMinn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 5:49pm
	Good advice on reconditioning the rods before reassembling the engine. Allis made several variations of the D262 engine, so you need to let us know the S/N of your engine to get the correct specs for your engine. Don't have my book handy; however, memory tells me that the sleeves should stck out approx 0.002" above the block deck and the pistons should be flush with the deck. PM me and I will get the book out of the shop and send you the specs for the pistons and valves. There is not a whole bunch of clearance between the top of the pistons and valves, so it would be a good idea to check out the valve spring tension and lengths also.
	What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC

nowaktj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Location: Elk River, MN Points: 726	Post Options Post Reply Quote nowaktj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 5:57pm
	Thanks for the advice guys! As far as a serial for the engine, I don't have one. I'm the one taking a 230 gas block and using that as a basis for my 262 diesel (this will work...the 230 gas block had the seals in the engine block casting). This 230 gas block was missing its engine serial tag....however the casting text on the side showed it was cast in 1966. The rest of the 262 diesel engine (head, crank, cam, manifolds, water pumps) are from a 1961 D19 tractor. I apologize...I don't have that serial number for the original block either. It is 2 hrs south of me. If it would be helpful, I could get it but I don't have it available right now. Thanks again guys, Terry
	D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G

nowaktj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Location: Elk River, MN Points: 726	Post Options Post Reply Quote nowaktj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 5:58pm
	Followup question...what do you mean about reconditioning the rods. I had the large end resized. Should I also do a check on the piston pin end?
	D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G

Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 6:39pm
	Have both the large end resized, but also have new wrist pin bushings installed. A worn wrist pin bushing will affect the height of the piston crown. Greg is correct on the .002 spec on the sleeve stand out. Having the piston flush with the deck of the block is not correct for a diesel. The specs I posted earlier came from Bill at Sandy Lake when he called AGCO and got someone to go pull the blueprints for the 262.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford