220 engine rebuild

On my 210 engine, the splines are on what I would call the back end of the pump shaft.  They are on the end that extends into the injection pump.  Sounds like you have what I would describe as similar to a very large flat blade screwdriver.  Can you post some pictures of the spray/burn pattern on the top of your old pistons?  I would like to see how they compare to my pistons after the failure.  How many of your pistons were scored and how badly?  I would like to see pictures of those too.

I did get pictures of the pistons but I do not know how to put them in a post. I'll nedd instruction on how to do that. Numbers 1 through 4 were still in good shape but 5 and 6 were trashed. I believe there was ring butting in all cylinders due to all of the liners having varying degrees of scoring. The injection pump from this engine is labeled DBGFC637-11GR. I do know this is not the original unit but i'm not sure what it came off of. It has been overhauled and set to 220 specs. It was initially timed 180 off and was set off of number 6 on the previous installation. It was then sent back to be evaluated after the engine failure. The information I got was that it checked out fine and they adjusted the timing marks so that this time it will be correct to number one. The injectors were also gone through this time around.   

DBGFC637-11GR is not a 4-roller/4-plunger 210/220 pump. It is a 2 roller/plunger pump made for a 95 PTO HP engine. I don't have time to get the specific application, but it ain't right. If a 2-roller pump is "turned-up" to make 135 PTO HP, it is delivering the fuel thru too many crankshaft degrees of rotation, which will make exhaust temps higher. This DB style pump would have a flat tang drive shaft, not a fine splined drive shaft. Which is it. ?? EDIT:  *** 11GR is a pump for a 200 tractor if the tag on the pump is legit.***

Edited by DrAllis - 08 Jul 2023 at 5:33pm

I don't know how to change the size of the picture. It;s a miracle I even got it there.

A model "DB" series (2-plunger/2-roller)pump with the governor weight retainer assembled wrong is exactly 180 degrees off as it can only be assembled 2 ways.  A model "DC" pump's (4-plunger/4-roller) governor weight retainer can be assembled more than 20 ways wrong (I don't remember the exact spline count) and may not be exactly 180 degrees off.  When one takes a 95 HP DB pump and magically "turns it up" to (supposedly) deliver 135 HP worth of fuel, the timing mark scribed on the governor weight retainer is now WRONG and timing is actually advanced even tho timing marks are aligned during pump installation.  So, if the repair person actually took the time to correctly re-scribe the timing mark due to the overfueled pump settings, the end of injection is more degrees later than the engine designer wanted, causing high exhaust temps.  Any way you look at it, a DB pump adjusted to deliver DC fuel output is doing so in toooo many crankshaft degrees of rotation for an engine that has to work for a living.

The updated rod bolt kits I got from AGCO are of a 12 point head design and 3/32 longer than the old bolts. Also the length of thread is about 1/2 shorter. I run out of threads at the point the bolt starts to contact the cap. So it's looking like i'll be re-using the bolts I have. The old bolts are of a socket head design and according to the new bolt literature, is a mid production range engine application. Getting back to the pump, were they made in both flat tang and spline drive configurations? Will the drive gear and flat tang shaft from a 301 interchange with a 426? I'm just trying to figure out how it ended up like it is if it's not a possibility it came from the factory this way. After the cost of getting the current pump rebuilt, i'm not sure if buying another is an option, along with the mating shaft.

Hello,

JM185 wrote: The updated rod bolt kits I got from AGCO are of a 12 point head design and 3/32 longer than the old bolts. Also the length of thread is about 1/2 shorter. I run out of threads at the point the bolt starts to contact the cap. So it's looking like i'll be re-using the bolts I have. The old bolts are of a socket head design and according to the new bolt literature, is a mid production range engine application. Getting back to the pump, were they made in both flat tang and spline drive configurations? Will the drive gear and flat tang shaft from a 301 interchange with a 426? I'm just trying to figure out how it ended up like it is if it's not a possibility it came from the factory this way. After the cost of getting the current pump rebuilt, i'm not sure if buying another is an option, along with the mating shaft.

I have to make a correction on my previous post concerning the rod bolts. They are correct and will work. I had threaded them into the rod by hand and they stopped short. I'm figuring, due to the extra length they are going into previously unused threads and are snug. Carefully using a wrench they went in plenty far enough to do the job. That one is on me.

I was able to get all the bolts in without issue. The rods are off to get magnafluxed and if there are no issues I can proceed with having the machine work done. Does anyone have any pointers on where a good place to source the correct injection pump and shaft it mates to? Am I correct in thinking I can swap the shaft in the gear and not have to get a different one?

I was able to find the spline shaft for the pump drive. The rods checked out good with no cracks. What are the numbers on the pump I need to be looking for? Also, What is the torque spec for the 7/16 bolt in the end of the camshaft? Once I get the parts back from the machine shop I can get the rotating assembly put together. There will be a bit of a wait until I get all that done. I greatly appreciate all of the help I have received here. I'm not sure if this post is getting too old. Should future updates on this project go in a new post or continue on this one?

i would just add to this thread.....

Not for a 220.       631  not 629

Just curious on the differences between 629 and 631. Would there be anything tricky involved with the rebuild to get it set right for that engine? I haven't bought this pump yet and wanted to know if I should take this one or keep looking. Thanks.