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22 hp Briggs

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AC720Man View Drop Down
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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    Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 8:21am
Not AC, but a Cub Cadet zero turn. Turns over slowly. Battery test good. Haven't dug into it yet but any suggestions on what it could be? All connections aren't clean and tight. Battery measures 12.9 volts until you turn to start, drops to 8.8 volts. Battery cable gets very warm after trying to start it
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Alvin M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alvin M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 10:29am
starter or tight engine
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Jim Hancock View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Hancock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 12:52pm
Might be too small of cables to carry the load and/or not enough cranking amps - battery is too small.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 2:54pm
if OHV, pull plug(s), and see if it turns over 'normal'.
if it does Google "B&S valve adjustment'", 100s of hiys, real common problem

other common problem ..lousy ground. I always ADD a big fat wire from battery -ve to case of engine near starter. some mfrs go -ve battery to a sheet metal screw in tin, then that tin is sheet metal screwed, then the engine is ,yup, self tap screwed....
sigh..LOTS of 'connections' that get corroded and drop power(amps).

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 8:58pm
I heard about the valve adjustment issue. That’s my next step as I have read since my post about that. Evidently suppose to be done every 100 hours. Has to be correct in order to activate the compression relief internally. Good suggestion on adding another ground.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2018 at 6:10am
I've done maybe 10-12 of them past 2-3 years. Kinda sad when my hands grab the right Tork key,feeler gauge  and wrenches for the job.
What I do is lift the front end of the tractor up about 4 feet using chain falls, then go to bed. By the morning the oil will have seeped back into the block. use 3/8 skt to remove valve cover.wipe off any dribbles,may have to buy another gasket.find top dead center with dowel, mark flywheel cover ,straight ahead is '12 oclock', rotate to '2 oclock' postion. that'l be close to 1/4" past TDC that the instructions say. I adjust on the 'wide' side 10-12, I go 12.  so far all have worked afterwards and I can't be that lucky....

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2018 at 9:19am
22ph is probley twin what is the model type and code,        it will be on the valve cover if it cranks past compression then it probley needs starter and cable ,conections worked on.     if it doesnt then it probley needs the valves adjusted and then then the starter repaired from be ing over worked  lash is probley  intake .005 to.007 exhuast .007 to .009                       need that model type and code to see the spec to be certain                                    the bottom of an antifreze jug will catch all the oil when you take the valve cover off  only afew drops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2018 at 8:32pm
Model 407577
Type 0317E1
Code 040423YG
Haven’t been able to work on it for a few days. Pulled the valve covers. Not much oil since the engine I found out hasn’t been run this year because of this issue. Will check the valve tomorrow evening hopefully. Cleaning ground connections first and adding another ground cable
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 5:52am
Well engine was made April 23rd, 2004... 040423
You should print off the 'proceedure', twice. one for near the rider, the other under your coffee cup cause the one by the rider will 'disappear' somehow...
good news is you're not the first ,so there's lots of info on the web..
Also do NOT unscrew that torks headed grub screw tooooo far ! If you do, it falls out and 'goes walkabout'. I spent 1/2hr looking for mine..it was hiding under the right front tire . sigh...
Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 9:22am
just looked up the valve lash  .004 to .006 intake  ,  .004 to .006 exhaust 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 10:00pm
Set them at .005 this afternoon. Charging the battery overnight. Surprised both were the same spec. Still suspecting a starter but we will see. Wasn’t off by much when I first checked them. Around .007.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2018 at 8:59pm
She starts and runs fine. Valve adjustment fixed her up. Was off .002 on both sets of valves. Thanks for your feedback guys.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2018 at 5:48am
I'm glad you're 'up and running' ! B&S OHV engines are rather 'fussy' about their valves. Sad thing is I keep a copy of the 'cure' in the garage and wonder why so fussy as I have a 40 year old Kohler K301 that always starts...
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2018 at 7:32am
Mower belongs to my boss, he asked me to take a look at it. I’m not a big fan of Briggs anymore. Older engines were pretty good. My AC stuff has Onan or Kohler engines. As you said Jay, the Kohler is a great engine. I have put 2 sets of points and several sets of plugs in it over its 35 years and that’s it. Extremely reliable engine. Onan’s require more maintenance but still a pretty good engine.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2018 at 7:38am
Bad thing about Onan is the cost of parts. Out rages prices and availability are common issues. Hit me pretty hard in the wallet when I restored one of my 720’s, Onan prices almost sank the project but it turned out to be a good running engine when I finished. Honda generators and power washer have also been reliable.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2018 at 7:41am
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2018 at 7:41am
yeah OLD Kohler, the newer Courage series, 20HP for sure have a nasty habit of unscrewing the case bolts and cranking the aluminum lower case....sigh. Not enough loctite on the screws. have one with <100hrs, can't sell the Cub Cadet, even though fixed and running fine...oh well it cuts weeds here fine....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2018 at 9:38am
hate to say this guys i like all the engines and each manufacturer has some good one and some bad one ,    but for  every 100 peices of equipment see 60 will be briggs and 10 will be tecumsuh 1 of that wil major 4 will be miner enngine work  the same 10 for kohler and 10 honda 10 for the rest    .  but maybe 2 out of the 60 briggs will be major 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2018 at 9:44pm
I can’t say I have worked on very many of the new ones. I generally work on mine and for friends. General maintenance, draining carbs when not in use, usually keep them running well for many years. So I guess I can’t give a fair shake to the new stuff. Usually turn the key on mine and they fire up without a fuss.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfmurray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2018 at 8:36pm
Had 12 hp and a 14 kohler  and they were fine.Got a 725 courage and nothing but trouble. Adj valves and helped some .Guy said after about 500 hrs they would not crank . mine had 500 when i got it .I think parts on cam gets worn  and you need to replace cam .Solved problem got mower with a kawasaki on it.Learned the 725 courage was a lemon. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2018 at 8:59pm
It’s obvious that they don’t make them like they used to. Throw away instead of being repaired. So glad I have older AC tractors with the good engines.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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