201 engine assembly

SteveM C/IL wrote: Yes it does.the K cover is made so the exhaust heats the intake pipe which doesn't work so good for gasoline.

Actually, BOTH gasoline and distillate fuels (kerosene) get exhaust heat... Kerosene, however, gets more, because of two reasons:

1) Kerosene's flashpoint is much higher than gasoline
2) Kerosene's burn temperature us much lower than gasoline

Because of the presence of high velocity airflow through the venturi, there is a pressure drop, and commensurate lowering of temperature in the intake manifold. It's a natural result of Combined Gas Law... air is going from ambient pressure and temp, to substantially lower pressure, thus, temperature. The end result is that moisture IN the air becomes frost, and will rapidly fill up the interior of the intake if additional heat isn't added. SINCE distillate fuel's exhaust temp is lower, it takes more heat at the manifold.

Go out early in the morning, start her up, and get it up to half throttle and watch what happens to the intake, and you'll immediately understand.

The K-model has pathways for more exhaust heat to be directed to the intake, just for these reasons.

NOW...

Notice that in this manifold, you've got a HOT side of the casting, and a COLD side.

IF you EVER have an engine that acts like it has a vacuum leak, but you cannot FIND it by any of the usual tricks, there's a good possibility that the vacuum leak is from the exhaust chamber, through a crack in the casting, to the intake side.

It is also not unusual for a leak in this area to be totally variable... like, sealed up tight when the temp is cold, and really leaky when warm, the crack is opening up as the casting warms up.

Very few people check this, and understandably so... it's not an easy thing to fix... oftentimes, guys just change the manifold.

BTW, awesome thread- great pictures!

Great job!

Hey everybody!!

I am ALMOST ready to assemble my WC that was my grandfather's. Got it back in family in Oct. after 30 some years for FREE!! Sad thing was, #2 had bent rod as it appears to have filled with water and I assuming ppl who had it before I got it back tried to tow start and bent the rod terrible!! So..after the Tisco kit and machine shop work on head and turned the crank, I am ready for assembly, you post on here is AMAZING!! I was wondering you mentioned "Videos from Don" Is that on the site here somewhere?
PS. crank was turned .030 on mains, .020 on rods, I bought a set of wd45 rods, have all matching bearings, I bought the laminate pack of shims for mains, as I was told the rods won't need them? what is the correct process for installing the shims?

Thanks in advance!!
Billy Bodnar
Denton, Maryland.

Marv,
You are such an improvisor! That engine hoist is unreal!
Mike

Yeah, I thought so too. The rest of my life keeps getting in the way. This weekend the tractor rolls in the shed and then I will get more done. The radiator is at the shop and I have to get the mag up to snuff, and clean out a fuel tank, and then it should be just nuts and bolts. (Famous last words).

I have all my head studs in and oil pump put back together. Anybody know what nuts I need for head studs? I would naturally go grade 8, do I use lock or regular washers?

Thanks,
Billy

Thanks Allis dave!! I did get confused it appeared that littlemerv had washers underneath his bolts in his pictures above. I do have a really important question yet stupid on my part.   I am ready to assemble my cam gear back to the camshaft, however, I have zero idea what position it goes on as the 3 holes could allow it to be assembled 3 different ways. I imagine this is a very important step....I bought the WC Service manual but didn't locate any information on it.

Thanks

Billy Bodnar

Littlemarv,

I apologize for spelling your name wrong in last post! You truly are a life saver! I have come a long way on my build thus far and don't want to fail now. I will definitely take a close look tonight after supper :-) Your post has been a huge help!

Thank you
Billy

Littlemarv,

Took that second look and lined up like a charm! Thanks a MILLION!

Billy

The pilot bearing fit pretty easily, so I staked the bore a little with a center punch. That, and a little green Loctite should take care of it.






Torqued the flywheel on, and marked the two "F" marks, and the TDC one that lines up with the setscrew on the front pulley. Not sure if I will need them or not, but they are easier to see.





Lined up the disk and bolted the pressure plate on.








Got the manifold on as well. Made my own studs. The short ones are from a 3406 Cat, and the two long ones are from Fastenal. Also got some thick 3/8" washers, and two 7/16" washers for the center two studs.










Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:40pm

To plug the crank I picked up some tapered corks from the local hardware store. Dug out as much of the wick as I could reach with a small pick. I put one cork in the front side, and think I actually drove two in from the back.

The pilot bearing almost slid in by hand, so I took a center punch, and staked or peened the bore where the bearing goes. That raises little metal to hold the bearing in. Make sure the end of the input shaft fits into the bearing before installation.

I would say the compression increase would be negligible.You will likely find the counter bores are not square will the deck now(deeper on one side).

Well, I had a fellow I work with rebuild the mag for me. I meant for him to show me how, but the two of us are so busy we could never find an hour to set down and go through the dang thing. He has all the parts in stock and rebuilds them regularly. So, got the set screw on the crank straight down, pointed the rotor at the plastic tab, and bolted it up.

Had to modify the gasket, as it didn't have a hole for the locating pin.




Got a universal wire set from Fleet, and some Autolite 295s.




Dumped in 5 quarts of 10w-30 and a bottle of zinc,



I plan on running 15-40 in this motor, but figured I'd run 10w-30 for a break in oil. Filled the radiator, and the air cleaner cup, dumped a few gallons of non ethanol in the tank. Checked the tranny oil as well.

Hooked up a mechanical gauge just to be sure on the oil pressure.




And cranked her over. Actually started pretty good, I think. I shot a video of it running, but I'll be danged if I can get it to upload.

It has about 12 psi oil pressure, might add a shim to try and bring that up. Coolant temp at the water manifold seemed to settle in to 150 degrees.

Of course, I hopped on and took it for a spin up the street quick. All gears seem good.

I loosened the mag, and moved it back and forth. It seems to run the best when I pull the top of the mag away from the block, like this.





Now the bad news. There is oil leaking out of the governor shaft. I knew this was egged out, but didn't think there was that much oil up there, Apparently the governor and gear train must fling it around in there pretty good. Can a guy drill that out and bush it or something?



More to come.... thanks for looking!

Hip Hip Hip Hooray!!! She's running!! 

On that oil leak, since there is no seal there they will all leak there.  The front of these engines all would be very caked with oiled grime there.  Factory designed flush system.