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201 engine assembly

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littlemarv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2016 at 11:50pm
Installed an oil filter (made sure it is the stuffed kind, not pleated paper) and built a custom lifting bracket. Also installed a 1 ton chain hoist in the ceiling of the basement.





Borrowed the preluber from work. You put oil in the tank, pressurize it with compressed air, hook it into the oil galley, and fill the oil system to eliminate dry startups.




Plumbed in where the oil pump delivery line from the oil pump goes.





Took awhile to fill the system, but eventually I had oil coming out all the mains, the rods, and all the rockers. Its neat how oil runs down the rockers to lubricate the push rod sockets and valve stems.








Not sure if the preluber is higher pressure and lower flow versus the oil pump, but the relief valve opened right away, so I plugged the ports with my fingers, and then the gauge would register. We'll see how it acts when I fire it up......someday.










Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:10pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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structures View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote structures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 2:18pm
Great build.  Great detail and pics!  On the head gasket for my 160cu in D15II the gasket was almost reversible.  There was a hole at the back of the block but also the water path holes were progressively larger from back to front.  It appears your gasket might be similar.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 8:42pm
littlemarv,I'm not certain here,but I believe it has been said not to use seals on valves on these engines because the guides will wear quickly.Need to check with MACK or Drallis or any other know quanity....

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 03 Apr 2016 at 8:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 3:50pm
I'm a clean freak also. But I don't have leaks so there is benefit. Have you ever seen a set of bearings that were installed in a dirty engine? NOT good. That's why I like to spin the pump if possible. It can wash some of the dirt out left in inadvertenly. Good job. Leon R  Cmo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 12:13pm
Marv,
 Just awesome documentation on a WC engine build. Maybe even I could do one someday too. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Glad to see the kids helping too.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 9:39am
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phil48ACWC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 8:21am
Check video below. This is the proper way to safety wire. You don't need the expensive spinner pliers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XktwpWPFvHs

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:40pm
Great work very educational. Thank you for sharing and the photos!
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 9:45pm
Making great progress again. Looks like you had a good Easter weekend. It's good to see everything coming together nicely.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 8:53pm
O.K., got the head back. I thought everything looked pretty good, but they really went through it. All new guides, 4 new seats, added valve stem seals, pressure tested, resurfaced, cleaned, and new frost plugs.






I also dropped off the manifold as well. I really only wanted it baked and blasted to get all the crud out of the intake side, but they gave it the once over as well. They machined the carb gasket surface, the manifold surface, and took the cover off and pulled the studs and machined that surface too. I have heard stories of the manifold being machined too much and then the carb hits the block? Also heard of machining it at an angle to prevent that? At any rate, we will see how that turns out- I am not putting on the manifold yet, I plan on taking the engine outside and priming every nook and cranny before bolting the manifold and the mag on.





Does anyone make a gasket for the manifold cover, otherwise I can make one...




So, gave the headgasket a snort of copper coat,





and laid it down. The gasket was stamped "UP", but that had XXXXXX printed over it, and "THIS SIDE UP" was printed on the opposite side. I had a 50/50 chance, so I put the printed side up.




They also reground the radius on all the rocker arms. Those were very worn. Good as new!





Got the rockers put back together.





Torqued the head to 70 foot pounds, installed the water manifold, push rods, and rocker shaft assembly. Torqued the rockers to 25 foot pounds, and set the valves to 0.014" cold. I figure that should be close enough until I can run it to check it hot, and retorque the head while I'm in there.

Trued up the oil filter base, because that had been way overtightened, like pretty much every other one.




Installed the dipstick bushing, oil pressure regulator, pushrod cover, filter base, and oil lines.











Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:05pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2016 at 4:49pm
Marv,
I am enjoying your photo documentary. It is very interesting to me. I did not grow up with a Dad who could do this, or near a shop that did it. I find it very fascinating and way above my head. I wish I could of learned this skill. Thanks for sharing.
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2016 at 3:11pm
you mentioned a rolling resistance of 250 inch pounds with the pistons and bearings installed.... I have measured 20- 25 ft pounds in the past, which is similar... I agree.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2016 at 7:07am
Nice job so far Marv!!  Good documentation and the pics are great!  Not out of focus or anything.  GREAT job!
I've got a good idea how you're going to get it out of the basement....... I did it with a piano once....Wink
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Fun watching your steady progress, and good work you are doing.    Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2016 at 12:17am
Well, after doing a little research and talking to several people on the connecting rod bolt torque, here is what I have come up with. This is a theory, NOT fact.

The castle nuts got torqued to 70 foot pounds. They were cranked down so tight because the rods were shimmed with soft brass shims, and if the shims ever fretted out and your rod caps start clunking around, all hell was gonna break loose pretty quick.

With the introduction of sized rods and precision insert bearings, the self locking nuts could be torqued to 40 ft. lbs. only. Really, there isn't any stress per say on a rod bolt, other than actually pulling the piston down on the intake stroke.

I think 70 ft. lbs. is a lot, even for a new 7/16" fine thread fastener. I'm not going to put that on bolts that are this old.

So, here's what I did. Pulled the cotter pins out, loosened the rod bolts, torqued them to 50 foot pounds, and turned them whichever way was closest to get a new cotter pin in.

Installed the timing cover seal, I always pack the backside of the seal with something if it has a garter spring in it. On axles you can use regular grease, on engines I use Lubriplate.



I was going to make a sleeve to locate the front cover like Don said in his video, but since I can flip the engine up, I just installed the seal in the cover, and slid the cover into place, it should be about as centered as you can get...




I happen to have two covers. Took the cam plugs out of both. One is stuck tight, the other one moves but has no spring tension behind it. Took them both apart, and took the best pieces to make one good one.







Tightened the plug down, back it off 3/4 of a turn, and lock down the jam nut.

Cleaned up the head studs and put them in. Waiting for the machine shop to give the head a once over. I took the valves out, they look pretty good, and the stems measure good.






With every part I bolt on, I grin a little. Two reasons:

1. I'm getting closer to driving a tractor that I built.
2. Gives me more room on my bench for more junk! (Carb and mag both need a good going through)

Concerned about how I'm going to get the engine out of the basement, eh? Oh, don't worry, that little spectacle won't go undocumented, trust me.


Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 8:59pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2016 at 11:08am
Stan I am wondering that also but maybe he has some big friends, if you read my earlier post I suggested renting a stair climbing dolly, neighbor has one he uses to haul wood stoves in the 450# range up stairs when he sells them. I saw him use it this winter, it has a battery on it and went right up the steps with a wood stove no problem. With all the good pictures Marv is sharing I expect on of it going up the stairs !!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2016 at 7:17am
You are doing it right but one thing is bugging me.  How the heck do you get it out of the basement? Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2016 at 12:53am
Great job on the rebuild, looks like a quality job! I have also read 70 lbs for castleated nuts. Good choice to see you going with castleated nuts instead of self locking. I have seen the self locking nuts let go and put a hole in the block. Good luck with the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac45dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 9:32pm
Originally posted by littlemarv littlemarv wrote:

No, with having it line bored and the rods sized to eliminate shims, theres nothing I can do about it anyways....
think i would check with plastigauge just to make sure the machine shop did there stuff right.ya just never know when some body can have a bad day not getting things right.hopefuly not on your project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dawntreader74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 7:56pm
the small bolts are 25- to 30 in the old book'' ac-wc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 3:06pm
No, with having it line bored and the rods sized to eliminate shims, theres nothing I can do about it anyways....
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 2:45pm
Marv did you use any plastigauge to check bearing clearance? Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 2:20pm
Well, I guess I will have to do a little research, cause rod bolts are something you need to be sure about. 70 sure sounds like a lot for those little bolts..
The mechanic always wins.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 8:49am
per an older discussion in pulling forum,  no noticable gain from taller head, besides maby for high flow porting applications.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 7:31am
Going from memory reading the service manual a few days ago. I think the castle nut rod bolt are supposed to be torqued to 70ft/lb and the newer self locking nuts are 40ft/lb
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 11:05pm
The safety wire on the left is twisted, you just can't see it due to the oil drain hole in the main cap. It would be a lot easier if there were three sets of holes instead of just one in each bolt. I couldn't do a nice neat figure 8 on the end ones, but it will work perfect on the middle one.

I think the liner O-rings will be alright. It says in the instructions to use oil on them. I've used dish soap, vegetable oil, engine oil, and even coolant for assembly on various engines. I know if you TWIST an o-ring, it can distort a liner.




So, laid the block down, torqued the rod bolts to 40 ft.lbs. and installed cotter pins, checked for rod side clearance, good to go there. Redid the safety wire on the middle cap as well.




So there, on to the cylinder head. Got a little thinking to do here, as I have the 3" head, which would be CORRECT for the age of tractor, and, I have a 4" head, which is a later vintage with some design improvements. Either way, a cleaning, pressure testing, decking, valve train kit, and valve job is pretty much in order. I have the rockers and pedestals for each. I guess it boils down to CORRECT or IMPROVED DESIGN. You can see how they moved the spark plugs toward the center of the chamber on the thicker head.




Hmmmmmmm.....











Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 8:54pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill_MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 9:26am
Looking great, just a couple points- you should not put any oil or petroleum based lubricants on those o-rings, it will cause the rubber to swell and actually distort the liners believe it or not. Clean the bore and sleeve to an inch of it's life and use a little dish soap only, it is plenty slippery and when it dries up it actually causes them to stick to the sides of the bore sealing them better. I'm a bit concerned about the safety wire on the left, doesn't look like it's tied together?? The proper way is to do a figure 8 between the bolt heads so if one bolt loosens, the other bolt turns the opposite way and tightens. Not trying to be critical, just don't want anything to ruin that beautiful rebuild Smile 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 7:11am
Great once again. This is a good guide for me to follow when assembling my 226 soon (maybe soon)...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 11:31pm
Junior taking care of a little body work,



"Connecting rods with Courtney"





And the old man on pistons.



Found a universal ring compressor that should work. These are Conformatic aluminum pistons, no long bosses, and no arrows. Well, they have arrows now, so the pistons all go in the same way.


Got the pistons on the rods per the manual. Kind of neat how you do it, depending on which number cylinder it is, you push the pin to one side of the piston, then push the rod the same way. Torque the pinch bolt to 35 ft. lbs., then slide it away about 1/8". Then the pin is pretty much centered when the rod is offset.










These were the first wrist pins I have ever installed that didn't have snap rings, so I was a little worried about keeping the wrist pins away from the cylinder walls. Cause if you make a mistake there, you are starting all over. But, looks like it should work.





Here's where I really could use an engine stand. Put it up on blocks a little higher, made a disposable drain pan out of tinfoil, and stuck some towels under there to catch all the drips.






My teacher in overhaul class at tech school taught me to soak pistons completely in oil prior to installation. You can't get much more complete lubrication than that. It is a bit messy, but its the only way I've ever done it.








Just snugged the rod bolts with a ratchet for now. I'm going to let it drip overnight, then I will flip it up so I can torque the rod bolts.





After I got them all in, just for kicks, checked the rolling torque. I don't think there is a spec, but we can file this away in the "useless info" category. Averaged 250 inch pounds, more or less.






Ironic- the torque wrench probably cost more new than the tractor....





Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 8:51pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 9:17am
Looks great Marv, love it you got your son helping, one big thing he will learn from you is no dirt allowed!   As for getting it out of the basement is they make a two wheel cart with "stair climbing ability" maybe you can rent one from a rental outfit?   Guy in the neighborhood who sells and installs wood stoves has one and he uses it on stoves weighing in the 450# range. Thanks for the update.      Mark
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