This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment -Knowledge Base
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


201 engine assembly

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234>
Author
Message Reverse Sort Order
 Rating: Topic Rating: 2 Votes, Average 5.00  Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
Bodnarboy View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 18 May 2016
Location: Denton Maryland
Points: 27
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:19am
Thanks Allis dave!! I did get confused it appeared that littlemerv had washers underneath his bolts in his pictures above. I do have a really important question yet stupid on my part.   I am ready to assemble my cam gear back to the camshaft, however, I have zero idea what position it goes on as the 3 holes could allow it to be assembled 3 different ways. I imagine this is a very important step....I bought the WC Service manual but didn't locate any information on it.

Thanks

Billy Bodnar
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Allis dave View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2608
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2016 at 12:45pm
The head stud nuts just take a regular grade 8 nut. No washers.

Edit - Head bolts should use washers.

Edited by Allis dave - 10 Aug 2016 at 1:04pm
Back to Top
Bodnarboy View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 18 May 2016
Location: Denton Maryland
Points: 27
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2016 at 12:09pm
I have all my head studs in and oil pump put back together. Anybody know what nuts I need for head studs? I would naturally go grade 8, do I use lock or regular washers?

Thanks,
Billy
Back to Top
dawntreader74 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Location: Manteno
Points: 1727
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dawntreader74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 9:22pm
GOOD-LUCK '' i want to see you ride that WC marv'
Back to Top
littlemarv View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1773
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 2:38pm
Yeah, I thought so too. The rest of my life keeps getting in the way. This weekend the tractor rolls in the shed and then I will get more done. The radiator is at the shop and I have to get the mag up to snuff, and clean out a fuel tank, and then it should be just nuts and bolts. (Famous last words).
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
Back to Top
dawntreader74 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Location: Manteno
Points: 1727
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dawntreader74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2016 at 11:24pm
marv'' i thought you would be driving that wc- around the yard by now' i want to see you ride it ClapClap
Back to Top
allischalmerguy View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Deep River, IA
Points: 2789
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2016 at 9:28am
Marv,
You are such an improvisor! That engine hoist is unreal!
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
Back to Top
Allis dave View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2608
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2016 at 6:18am
Bodnarboy,
Welcome to the forum and good luck with that motor! The video form Don is the oil pan install video in the knowledgebase section. WC's and WD's originally had shim in the mains and rods. WD45's had no rod shims. You should always check your tolerances with a plastigauge no matter what we tell you. You never know what was done to this motor before you had it.
Back to Top
Bodnarboy View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 18 May 2016
Location: Denton Maryland
Points: 27
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2016 at 12:20pm
Hey everybody!!

I am ALMOST ready to assemble my WC that was my grandfather's. Got it back in family in Oct. after 30 some years for FREE!! Sad thing was, #2 had bent rod as it appears to have filled with water and I assuming ppl who had it before I got it back tried to tow start and bent the rod terrible!! So..after the Tisco kit and machine shop work on head and turned the crank, I am ready for assembly, you post on here is AMAZING!! I was wondering you mentioned "Videos from Don" Is that on the site here somewhere?
PS. crank was turned .030 on mains, .020 on rods, I bought a set of wd45 rods, have all matching bearings, I bought the laminate pack of shims for mains, as I was told the rods won't need them? what is the correct process for installing the shims?

Thanks in advance!!
Billy Bodnar
Denton, Maryland.
Back to Top
Sugarmaker View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 7966
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2016 at 8:32pm
Marv,
 That's looking very good! The WC will be up and going soon at this pace and new parts too! Your rounding the corner when you start getting things painted.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump.
Back to Top
allischalmerguy View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Deep River, IA
Points: 2789
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2016 at 8:09pm
Great job!
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
Back to Top
littlemarv View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1773
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2016 at 9:26am
Better than Christmas! Got a present from Rick. Should be everything I need to set the engine into the chassis. Pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch disk, and water pump. I already have a pressure plate, and a trans input seal, which is just a piece of cork. I think that's everything I need.....




Strung a chain out back for my hoist,






And applied an amount of primer comparable to what was used on the Titanic. Not too worried about looks at this point, just trying to cover up all the bare metal.








Got the manifold primed and painted with high temp paint.





I've never installed a manifold on one of these engines. I'm assuming the two gaskets on the left are for a 45 or something, and are not used in my application. How do the gaskets go? My best guess is the paper gasket goes in the metal piece, then that goes on the manifold, and the metal pieces are steel on steel to the head?


Made some carb mounting studs.



Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:33pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
Back to Top
DaveKamp View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 4885
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2016 at 11:59am
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

Yes it does.the K cover is made so the exhaust heats the intake pipe which doesn't work so good for gasoline.


Actually, BOTH gasoline and distillate fuels (kerosene) get exhaust heat... Kerosene, however, gets more, because of two reasons:

1) Kerosene's flashpoint is much higher than gasoline
2) Kerosene's burn temperature us much lower than gasoline

Because of the presence of high velocity airflow through the venturi, there is a pressure drop, and commensurate lowering of temperature in the intake manifold. It's a natural result of Combined Gas Law... air is going from ambient pressure and temp, to substantially lower pressure, thus, temperature. The end result is that moisture IN the air becomes frost, and will rapidly fill up the interior of the intake if additional heat isn't added. SINCE distillate fuel's exhaust temp is lower, it takes more heat at the manifold.

Go out early in the morning, start her up, and get it up to half throttle and watch what happens to the intake, and you'll immediately understand.

The K-model has pathways for more exhaust heat to be directed to the intake, just for these reasons.

NOW...

Notice that in this manifold, you've got a HOT side of the casting, and a COLD side.

IF you EVER have an engine that acts like it has a vacuum leak, but you cannot FIND it by any of the usual tricks, there's a good possibility that the vacuum leak is from the exhaust chamber, through a crack in the casting, to the intake side.

It is also not unusual for a leak in this area to be totally variable... like, sealed up tight when the temp is cold, and really leaky when warm, the crack is opening up as the casting warms up.

Very few people check this, and understandably so... it's not an easy thing to fix... oftentimes, guys just change the manifold.

BTW, awesome thread- great pictures!
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
Back to Top
LeonR2013 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 01 Jan 2013
Location: Fulton, Mo
Points: 3500
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2016 at 7:01am
Something I do is that on any exhaust and the four on that plate, I use stainless nuts and lock washers. They don't rust in place as bad, which can give you headache. Leon R  Cmo
Back to Top
Sugarmaker View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 7966
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 7:28pm
Very nice documentation on your engine build! Thanks for posting the details.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump.
Back to Top
littlemarv View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1773
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 3:13pm
I went with the no thermostat one for a couple reasons. First off, I have three thermostat housings, three of which became perforated when I tried to clean them up. Second, I'm not sure how many combinations of water manifold-head thickness-radiator necks there are. But I think this is original? Not sure, we will see once I get the motor in and radiator set down. I may have to change something.
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
Back to Top
CAL(KS) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3557
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 9:46am
Doing a great job documenting this project.  Curious why you opted to stay with the old style water outlet instead of the later with thermostat for automatic temp control.
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
Back to Top
KenBWisc View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Fall Creek, WI
Points: 1128
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 8:43am
I don't understand why the pics of your rolling chassis don't appear here as they did in an E-mail notification I received. But,,, in relation to steering wheel slop; find the bearing adjusting bolt under the pedestal and between the two front wheels. Tighten this  a bit at a time while checking for reduced slop. It may take care of it for you.    
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
Back to Top
B26240 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
Points: 3814
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2016 at 6:16am
Less dramatic than I thought the trip up the stairs would be, all I can say is you and your brother must be some "heavy duty guys".   My fear would be getting it up to stair number four and running out of gas. Mark
Back to Top
littlemarv View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1773
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2016 at 8:44pm
Time to get the motor outside. I had to take the valve cover back off, because now that I put the pan and stands on, its too tall. Put a piece of pipe up in the floor joists to hang my hoist from. Big brother stopped by, and we lifted the engine and ever so gently slid it off the bench. Set the two wheeled cart under it and lowered it down.





Ratchet strapped it to the cart, and up the stairs we went. He was pulling, and I would lift up each step, and it really went pretty good. Didn't have a photographer when we really needed it, and our hands were definitely full!

But here it is rolling out the kitchen door...





So there, a successful trip out. Needs to go out to the paint booth for a coat of primer. Then the chassis needs to come into the garage and we can set her home.






Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:28pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
Back to Top
cdweirrick View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 19 Apr 2016
Location: Mercer Co, OH
Points: 41
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cdweirrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 3:26pm
I have loved reading this thread. As someone who is new to all of this and looking forward to learning, it has been full of valuable information. I cant wait to see the finished product!
Grandpa's 1950 WD
1950 G
Back to Top
BenGiBoy View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Nov 2015
Location: Ashville, NY
Points: 686
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 12:05pm
K stands for Kerosene probably.
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
Back to Top
SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 6968
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 10:35pm
Yes it does.the K cover is made so the exhaust heats the intake pipe which doesn't work so good for gasoline.
Back to Top
littlemarv View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1773
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 10:26pm
When I got the manifold back, they had taken the cover off and cleaned it out. I never thought to look closely, I just thought "Huh, looks like I need to get some exhaust gasket paper and make one for this, so the intake and exhaust gases don't mix."

So, I picked up a sheet of exhaust gasket paper. Boy is that some crap to work with. It has metal in it so custom trimming is pretty tough.

At any rate, now that I look at it, that upper chamber does nothing. I thought that was the intake side of the manifold, but it is more or less a sealed chamber. Nothing goes in and out of it as far as I can tell. Whats it even for? Does that have something to do with the "G" or "K" covers you can get?




Anyways, made a gasket and installed the cover with some new brass nuts.


Masked off the carb surface, out to the paint booth tomorrow, for some extra high temp primer and paint. I don't know how hot the old manifold will get, but I figure the stuff rated for 3000 degrees ought to cover it. (Yeah right)








Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:27pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
Back to Top
IBWD MIke View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Newton Ia.
Points: 2475
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2016 at 10:14am
When I rebuilt the engine for my 45 I had to use a WD block. Learning how to safety wire was one of the more interesting parts of the job. 
Back to Top
BenGiBoy View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Nov 2015
Location: Ashville, NY
Points: 686
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2016 at 7:16am
Lookin' real good, by the way. It is fun to watch your progress!!
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
Back to Top
BenGiBoy View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Nov 2015
Location: Ashville, NY
Points: 686
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2016 at 7:15am
Definitely some pictures of 'the trip out'! Big smile
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
Back to Top
Don(MO) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bates City MO.
Points: 6862
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2016 at 8:16am
She is looking good, I'm happy to see you rewired the main cap bolts. I have built lots of engine stands so the engine can ship and you have a nice set built. Now it's time to move her out of the house and please post some shots of it going up the steps and out the door. lol
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

Back to Top
littlemarv View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1773
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2016 at 1:02am
Flipped the engine over.






I thought the safety wire videos were really neat, so I redid those.










Installed the oil pump. Yes, that is Don's oil pan video in the background.





Put the pan on, torqued the bolts to 18 foot pounds.





Flipped it back up, put the valve cover on just snug, and installed these stands I welded up out of some scrap iron I had laying around.








So there it is. I think I will put the water pump on, then up the stairs she goes, out to the garage for a coat of primer.


Thanks for looking!

Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:18pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
Back to Top
TomMN View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elbow Lake, MN
Points: 856
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomMN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2016 at 9:08am
Very nice.  I have only seen the oil flowing up top with the engine running and the cover off.  Fun to see it in a steady state as the oil flows through where the designers intended.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.063 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum