1968 D10 Clutch Woes

Question: I put a new throw-out bearing in my D10. I adjusted the clutch. I took the pressure plate and clutch off and did not see any major issues. I put the tractor back together and when I push the clutch in when the tractor is anything above an idle, it acts like the pressure plate is not removing enough force to let the clutch stop. I then adjusted all 3 bolts on the pressure plate to be driven in as far as they will go. Still won't let the clutch disc stop turning above idle. Am I adjusting the wrong way or am I in need of a new pressure plate?

After I put the tractor back together, I performed the clutch adjustment per the book.  Ended with 1" of clearance from the clutch return pad and the platform. Gave me about 2" of pedal movement.  I then took my camera and verified that the fingers of the pressure plate were not touching the bearing.  All good.    I did have a time trying to get the splines on both shafts to line up with the ones on the clutch and flywheel.  I would try to push it in, release move the flywheel a bit and try again.  Maybe I pushed too hard?   

I thought maybe I needed to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate, which I did to the point where there are no more threads left on the bolt.  When I am at low idle the clutch stops moving when we push the pedal.  At high idle it acts like it is slipping when you push in the pedal.  I would think screwing in the adjustment bolts on the pressure plate to the max would allow for the max space between the pressure plate and the flywheel.  Is my logic flawed?

I did not replace the pilot bushing. Think that might be it?

If you screwed the adjusting screws all the way clockwise, which it sounds like you did, then the fingers would be riding on the throw out bearing all of the time...I'm thinking a bent/warped disc...a split regardless. 

The clutch disc has the longer part of the splined "hub" facing rearward.   Sounds to me that I need to invest in some new parts.