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QuoteReplyTopic: 1962 D-15 Distributor replacement question Posted: 21 Mar 2022 at 2:42pm
Greetings
One of my 1962 D15 Series 1 tractors needs a new or rebuilt distributor. I am wondering if this is a good time to upgrade to electronic. Has anyone used a Pertronix Distributor for this year allis? I have only found one that fits a 1969-1974 allis 4 cyl clockwise. This tractor is a workhorse for the farm and all advise is greatly appreciated ! Thanks
One of my 1962 D15 Series 1 tractors needs a new or rebuilt distributor. I am wondering if this is a good time to upgrade to electronic. Has anyone used a Pertronix Distributor for this year allis? I have only found one that fits a 1969-1974 allis 4 cyl clockwise. This tractor is a workhorse for the farm and all advise is greatly appreciated ! Thanks
Yes, the pertronix is a good deal. I have it on a D-10 and 12, both series III. Never having to put a p&c in again, is a good thing. Make sure you have the right coil, and follow the directions, easy peasy...
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
Steve, after 5 hours i thought you would get several posts... I personally have not done the switch, but several others on this site ( Including Dave) have done this and have good luck....... as Dave said, FOLLOW DIRECTIONS..
One huge problem with all the 'electronic ignitions' is they have do NOT have ANY 'protection' from 'oopsy' wiring errors. poof....magic black smoke...... instant paperweight.
just be real careful
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
I have put Pertronix EIs on several tractors including WD45s. Never replace points or condensers again. They start easy and never misfire. Still have a few tractors on points, but they will get their turn. One of the greatest upgrades for old tractors and the only thing you see is 2 wires coming out of the distributor.
I've put Pertronix kits on my D17, WD, the 192 Ford four in my small forklift, and probably a dozen other things. I've done lots of other electronic ignition updates, and the Pertronix setup is definitely good... easy to install (watch the polarity!) and no adjustments. Comparatively Inexpensive, simple, and robust. For best performance, use the recommended coil.
They ARE polarity sensitive... connect them backwards, and they'll burn out. The circuit inside is pretty darned simple, and I like simple. Just don't reverse the polarity, and use the recommended coil. Order the right unit for your voltage and polarity, and the right trigger form-factor for whatever distributor you want, and put it in. Make sure the polarity is correct.
One of the common issues with distributors, and the Allis motors are no exception... is distributor upper shaft bushing wear... they get sloppy, and the distributor shaft starts 'walking' a circle around the inside of the distributor body. This causes igntion point gap to go goofy, and (if really bad) the rotor will get some 'face-time' with the inside of the cap.
Other common issue, is a worn point cam... obvious enough, if the point cam is worn, the points don't open and close consistently.
The 'modern' issue... is CONDENSERS. It is practically impossible to find a good source of 'reliable' condensers, as the quality manufacturers have gone away. Part of it is just plain technology... with nobody making 'point-condenser' ignitions, the demand for condensers really only exists for all of us 'holdouts'... and that means there ain't much money to be made in quality condenser manufacturers, so the only source is Asia... and they're frequently worse than a well-used, dried-out OEM piece.
Before you slap the Pertronix in, do pull apart the diz, clean it thoroughly, get new bushings in, and give the mechanical advance a full monte of TLC. Once you have that done, get a quality cap and rotor, put it all together, get the Pertronix in, and (before you try it), look closely at your battery wiring, and the coil connections... make sure the polarity isn't reversed. Then give it a bump... if your carb is half-decent, it'll start on the second compression event, and run like a swiss watch.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
While I do not know about the actual Petronix distributor, I have, like many others replaced the points with the Petronix electronic ignition. Quite easy to install and trouble free for all 6 of my conversions over the years. Recommended!
A quick question following up on DaveKemp's post. Does the Petronix use the mechanical advance, or does it replace it with its own electronic advance curve? I'm just curious, since in old motorcycles like my 70 Triumph, an electronic ignition conversion replaces the mechanical advance with an internal electrical curve.
A quick question following up on DaveKemp's post. Does the Petronix use the mechanical advance, or does it replace it with its own electronic advance curve? I'm just curious, since in old motorcycles like my 70 Triumph, an electronic ignition conversion replaces the mechanical advance with an internal electrical curve.
The Pertronix uses your existing advance system; the only thing the Pertronix module does is to replace your breaker points. Breaker points are a mechanical switch, the Pertronix is a solid-state switch. The remainder of your ignition system continues to function exactly as it did with the breaker points.
Edit: If you put a Pertronix module into a sloppy, worn out distributor you will still have a sloppy, worn out distributor with the same issues that brings.
Edit: If you put a Pertronix module into a sloppy, worn out distributor you will still have a sloppy, worn out distributor with the same issues that brings.
EXACTLY!!!
If you go with the Pert, PLEASE give the distributor a thorough cleaning, new set of bushings, and make that advance mechanism like new, or better.
Or send it to Steve, he'll get it drop-in ready.
Some guys don't... they just yank the points/condenser, and shove the kit in. It'll fire better, but they'll still have inconsistency AND poor advance response... and then they blame the Pertronix for not being 'magic'...
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
Edit: If you put a Pertronix module into a sloppy, worn out distributor you will still have a sloppy, worn out distributor with the same issues that brings.
EXACTLY!!!
If you go with the Pert, PLEASE give the distributor a thorough cleaning, new set of bushings, and make that advance mechanism like new, or better.
Or send it to Steve, he'll get it drop-in ready.
Some guys don't... they just yank the points/condenser, and shove the kit in. It'll fire better, but they'll still have inconsistency AND poor advance response... and then they blame the Pertronix for not being somehow 'magic'...
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
If the Distributor mainshaft has a wobble in it, you need to get that repaired first. When I do my Distributor rebuilds, I go through them top to bottom. Make sure the centrifical advance weight spring(s) aren't broken, or the weights rusty where they hang up or get stuck in the outward position. And whatever ya do, don't put oil on the weights!! All it does is sling the oil around and makes muck inside eventually getting on the points. I use a dry graphite spray to coat the weights & cam plate upon reassembly. Centrifugal advance then works nice and smooth as it should. HTH
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
Thanks so much for everyone's response ! I purchased the Pertronix EI kit, Flamethrower coil and low resistance wires.
Also purchased the distributor bushing and shim kit.
The distributor is on the bench and I've dis-assembled the top end of the unit and am about to remove the drive gear so that the shaft can be removed from the housing.
The service manual I have and the Parts manual do not specify the dimensions of the driven gear pin that holds the driven gear to the distributor shaft. The manual says that I am to grind down the pin and drive it out of the shaft. I assume that I will need to replace the pin after pressing out and replacing the bushing and re-inserting the shaft into the housing/buishing assembly. does anyone know what the pin dimensions are? I can drive the old one out and measure it, but would prefer to order it so that I have everything on-hand for the rebuild.
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