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mrtractor 
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Joined: 16 Sep 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
Points: 37
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 Posted: 17 Nov 2015 at 7:40pm |
That's good to hear about the scratches, thanks!
I should have the head back this weekend so I'm putting in an order for things that I will need to get the engine running next week (if possible), here's what I have so far:
Temp Gauge Oil Pressure Gauge Plugs Fan Belt Radiator Hose Lower Radiator Pipe Lower Wiring Harness - Any recommendations? Air Cleaner Cap Oil Filter Oil Pan Drain Plug
Muffler - I think I'd like an under the hood model do I get this:
http://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_12_204&products_id=45
Or this:
http://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_12_204&products_id=44 ?
Thermostat - Do I get the 160 degree or the 180 degree?
Carb Kit - I have a Zenith but how do I tell which one I need? I assume everything will need to be replaced on it.
Can you guys think of anything else I might need to replace to get the engine running?
Thanks!!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 18 Nov 2015 at 11:29am |
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180 is about the minimum temp to run GOOD. The decal for my CA says run at 190.
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wbecker
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Joined: 29 Oct 2009
Location: STL
Points: 837
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Posted: 18 Nov 2015 at 12:11pm |
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The under hood muffler is the 70210082.
If your looking for the whole tractor wire harness go to B&B Custom Circuits.
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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mrtractor
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Joined: 16 Sep 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
Points: 37
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 8:27pm |
Is a pilot bearing the same as a pilot bushing? I'm having trouble finding exactly what I'm looking for (original part or oillite). I don't really know what it looks like originally and the service manual doesn't show it.
I took this week off hoping that I would get it running, the head isn't done yet which sets me back a little bit but I ordered all the parts and they should all be here in the next couple of days so I can work on putting the block together.
I still need to order a carb kit (need to find out which model Zenith I have tomorrow) and the pilot bushing.
I suppose I'll run into things here an there that will need to be replaced, I'll update the thread as I go.
I'm just going to get it running before the end of the year, I'll break it all back down this spring/summer to sand blast and paint it. I'm looking forward to buying a nice air compressor and the blasting/painting equipment.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87626
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:11pm |
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yes, the pilot "bearing" in a B is a bushing.. just guides the end of the shaft .. couple thousands larger than the shaft.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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mrtractor
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Joined: 16 Sep 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 9:20am |
Isn't the pilot bushing what goes in the center of the flywheel? If it is, it looks like it's in there. Or am I wrong on where it goes?
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Points: 1817
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 6:43pm |
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Looks to be there to me. The other one that was damaged was probably left in the torque tube after repair.
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mrtractor
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Joined: 16 Sep 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 9:01pm |
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If you look back at those pictures that brass piece that's broken is quite a bit thinner than the pilot bushing, I'm wondering if it goes somewhere else?
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dano
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Joined: 22 Dec 2015
Location: georgia
Points: 9
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Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 6:37pm |
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I read all about you restoring your tractor, I just got a 1948 model b and hoping to start on it in a few weeks I have did all my work on my cars and trucks motors paint etc but this in just a little worried about, I got a lot out of your post and feel a little better about starting on it, the tractor I got was 300.oo and et up a couple of years so maybe it will not be to bad guy said it ran when he stopped using it im sure I will be asking a lot of questions , thanks to all the guys that replied to your thread
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mrtractor
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Joined: 16 Sep 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
Points: 37
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Posted: 24 Dec 2015 at 12:18pm |
That's great, I'm having a lot of fun, I'm sure you will too. There are tons of youtube videos out there that have helped me learn.
I built a large electrolysis rust removal system to help me remove the rust from the parts I'm reusing, here's a small example of how great it works (I started with a 5 gallon bucket but scaled mine up a bit to a 14 gallon tub):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ka6ArN_ehas
I'm also looking at purchasing an ultrasonic cleaner but the ones I want cost about $1000 (Sweepzone 310 by L&R ultrasonics). I heard Crest makes good ones as well.
I'm still waiting on getting the head back from the machine shop, the guy was in and out of the hospital and hasn't finished it yet.
I have purchased all the parts and received them, I went to put the block back together and realized the machine shop never but my cam bearings back in and they still have them so I'm stuck until I go pickup my head.
My uncle has a Ford Jubilee that I'm going to work on next, he thinks the bearings went out on it and he's unable to work on it because of health issues so he said he'd give it to me.
I love tractors! |
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dano
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Joined: 22 Dec 2015
Location: georgia
Points: 9
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Posted: 24 Dec 2015 at 12:45pm |
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GREAT TO HEAR BACK FROM YOU MY ONLY WORRY IS ABOUT THE MAIN BEARINGS I LIVE IN A SMALL TOWN SO NOT MANY AROUND HERE REBUILD THESE TRACTORS NOW DAYS AND I RETIRED THIS YEAR SO FUNDS ARE LITTLE BUT I CAN DO A LOT FOR MYSELF IM STARTING ON MINE TOMORROW GOING TO SEE IF THE MOTOR IS FREE AND GO FROM THERE
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wdtom
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Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Location: Foster, R.I.
Points: 74
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Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 4:11pm |
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I would have the head done, free the pistons, by lots soaking with various penetrating oils, and get it running. It might take a few weeks of soaking and tapping, not too hard, with a block of wood and medium hammer. Maybe it is OK? Unless you see something obvious. Change the transmission oil, the final drive oil, (for some reason some never do), and keep a good boot on the shift lever and welcome to orange. Tom
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dano
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Joined: 22 Dec 2015
Location: georgia
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Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 6:11pm |
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thanks tom, I started taking it apart today, the motor is not froze up.im going to do a compression check on it tomorrow,i talked to dick l and gave me a few pointers also,im going to need parts like exhaust manifold and some sheet metal so far,im sending the starter,generator and radiator to a local shop here to get checked out, there no place around to get these parts so im looking for some guys that can lead me in the direction to get them over all the tractor is good shape lots of surface rust from sitting out side im wondering about the brakes is there any site you guys can send me too for this info I want to thank all of ya'll for the input as this is my first tractor project dano
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5087
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Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 7:22pm |
dano, Here is a link to my picture site. I didn't do a real good job on the descriptions. I can fill in any questions you might have about the pictures. All kinds of junk besides tractors in there. Just pick thru what interests you.
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Points: 1817
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Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 8:22pm |
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Dano,
What part of Georgia you in? I'm down here in Gainesville, FL and have some spare B parts and I've restored 4 of these tractors. I'm no expert, but I know all the parts on the tractor. Good luck with your build.
Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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dano
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Joined: 22 Dec 2015
Location: georgia
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Posted: 29 Dec 2015 at 8:43am |
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thanks for replying, im un waycross ga about 75 miles north of jax fla,i know where Gainesville is I did a lot of work there back in the 70 80 . I need a exhaust manifold so far didn't get to work on it much Monday hope to work on it today some do you know much about the brakes on it thanks dano
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dano
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Joined: 22 Dec 2015
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Posted: 29 Dec 2015 at 8:45am |
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thanks for that dick l I hope to work on it some today still taking off sheetmetal parts so far just broke two bolts I feel lucky there
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wdtom
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Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Location: Foster, R.I.
Points: 74
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Posted: 29 Dec 2015 at 4:48pm |
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get it free and running before you spend a lot of money you maybe don't have to. Tom
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dano
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Posted: 30 Dec 2015 at 4:10pm |
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well got all the sheetmetal off along with starter and radiator and gen down to just frame and motor I broke the threads on the steering shaft where the steering wheel connects so I need a steering shaft, also the steering box was full of rust and didn't work very good I also need a exhaust manifold only broke 3 bolts taking everything apart so I feel lucky if anyone knows a god place to get theses parts I would like to know thanks
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MrHDC
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Joined: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Wichita, KS
Points: 254
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Posted: 30 Dec 2015 at 10:53pm |
 What's a little rust, lol! I rebuilt this one. It's a little different cause it's off a CA but not that much. I got some hard to find parts from John at: http://vintagetractors.com You'll have to copy/paste the link. Prices were pretty good and they're pretty easy to work with. You might e-mail them to see if they have anything you need. Hervey
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mrtractor
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Joined: 16 Sep 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
Points: 37
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Posted: 09 Feb 2016 at 8:08pm |
Heck yeah dano, sure is fun tearin into these old machines! How's it going on your end?
I spent the last few weekends just cleaning parts, scrubbing an wire wheeling and prepping to put things back together.
I used a 2:5 solution of Zep industrial purple degreaser and water and let them sit overnight, worked pretty well. I'd probably do a 1:1 next time for better paint removal.
I put the sleeves, lifters, cam, crank/mains, rods/caps/pistons (with rings) in the engine and boy is it tough to turn, I have to use the crank to even get it to turn over. I'm at about .002 on the crank and .0015 to .0025 on the rods/caps.
I tore it back down and removed the rings and it's still a little tight but feels ok (I have no idea how it should be anyways), I tested it after torquing each one. I think the rings are just that tight. How tight should it be?
The front cover is bent out a little, you think this will be okay? There's not supposed to be a gasket or sealant on this?
I'm going to be rebuilding the carb this weekend and continue the build, I'm pumped!
Thanks guys!
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mrtractor
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Joined: 16 Sep 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
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Posted: 09 Feb 2016 at 8:11pm |
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Also, if anyone has a lead on the little clip that holds the oil inlet screen in the oil pickup tube doohickey, I'm interested.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 09 Feb 2016 at 8:36pm |
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someone asked several years ago and how TIGHT was a new motor to turn over. I was rebuilding a B at the time. Took a torque wrench and it took 20 ft pounds to keep it rolling ... a little more to get it to start moving... that would be bearings and rings installed.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87626
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Posted: 09 Feb 2016 at 8:37pm |
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did you check ring end gap in the bore before fitting to pistons ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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mrtractor
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Location: St. Paul, MN
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Posted: 10 Feb 2016 at 6:56am |
I didn't check ring end gap, I'll make sure I do that.
Thanks for the torque wrench info, that's great information to have. When you put on the torque wrench did you put it on the handle or straight off of the crank/pulley?
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mrtractor
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Joined: 16 Sep 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
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Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 7:31pm |
She runs like a top boys, and drives good too!! Videos here:
https://goo.gl/photos/rdBE2AgxA2ywPPKk8
I can't believe how well it runs, I'm pretty surprised actually. You all were a great help!
Getting it timed right was a pain in the butt, it took me about 4 hours.
I rewired it with a complete wiring harness and rebuilt the carburetor with a kit and cleaned it real good. It actually wasn't wired properly and the switches didn't work, had to replace them.
Had to replace the water pump as well as it was leaking out the weep hole.
I have a gas leak at the sediment bowl so I bought a new one, will replace the fuel line and sediment bowl assembly this weekend and move onto the hydraulics and belly mower install. No other leaks though!
I bought a new 6v battery but the starter barely turned it over, she loosened up a bit after I ran it for an hour or so but I didn't test the starter again, I like hand cranking it. I'm going to pick up an 8v battery this weekend though.
I need to do some more research and buy some more tools so that I can take it apart again (this time the rear end too), sandblast it, and paint it in the next month or so. I'm really looking forward to it since I've never done that stuff either.
I'm learning a hell of a lot, I'm so glad I did this.
A couple questions:
1. How long should I run it before I change the oil (meaning because it's brand new I'm sure there are some shavings in there from it breaking in)?
2. I forgot to put the safety wire on the main caps and the rod caps (castle nuts) so that they won't unscrew, dang it, they were all torqued to spec, you think I'll be ok running it for a bit before I pull it back off and do that?
Thanks
Edited by mrtractor - 22 Mar 2016 at 7:32pm
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