1951 WD

 Yes that is a great tool for this work! I used it on the torque tube and the final drives too. 

I looked at the front seal and don't see much oil so maybe it decided to seal up a little! 

I think the pedestals are formed metal on the short heads??? Cant remember? But I do believe they are different.

This would be the time for a fresh clutch/ pressure plate, if your in need or in doubt. 

Hand clutch can be adjusted if the plates are good enough.

Regards,

 Chris

Turns out the pilot bearing being open on one side is probably intentional. After looking through the service manual, it mentions engines prior to W310920 have a wick through the center of the crankshaft to bring oil to the pilot bearing. After that they quit using a pilot bearing until later on in WD-45 production when they must have realized they should have kept it and went to using a bearing, but sealed. It mentions that you should install it on tractors that didn't have it as it will increase clutch life and decrease the chance of leakage at the clutch housing seal, which makes sense. Anyhow, this engine is a little over 1000 serial numbers before the change, so I'll plug the oil wick hole and find a sealed bearing for it.

I wonder if the rivet or pin head that I found when I drained the oil was from something in the hand clutch. I will be checking that out in a couple weeks when I get a chance to work on this again (getting a dumpster to clean up all the construction debris around my house for a couple weekends). Then I need to put in some parts orders.

I wrestled with the engine on the hoist trying to get it on the stand I just bought but quit once I realized that I need two more bolts just 1" longer. Then I popped the cover off of the hand clutch, which has some light rust from what was probably condensation over the years. I've never dealt with a hand clutch before. The service manual says if grooves are still visible on the clutch linings then they're okay. I can still see grooves but I think what's left of the shims is just one big one so I'm off to watch Dennis' video on the hand clutch rebuild.

EDIT: They're actually a lot of shims glued together. I'm probably okay.

I have also decided that the head of the pin I found when I drained the transmission oil was probably from the hand clutch linkage. It must have been replaced at some point because I don't see any missing (and someone's been in it before since there was silicone under the access cover).

I can't get a useable picture of the grooves of the clutch disks but I took a rough eyeball/caliper measurement of the thickness and got 3 mm which is just slightly over your 0.10" measurement. I'm sure mine would measure out close to that if I took them apart and actually got the calipers on both surfaces. Regardless, they seem to be plenty thick plus the fact that I can still peek at the grooves.

Thanks for the tip on the brass collar. I checked and mine has some play in it but hopefully not so much that it might break anytime soon? It had oil in it, but it sat in a shed for several (maybe 10) years. $200 is enough to make me stop and think I can make it for quite awhile longer, and it looks like I don't have to split anything to replace it if I do get around to it later. Bad idea?

The hand clutch shaft came out today as well as the seal. Not too bad of a job since I already have the RH frame rail off.

I also took a peek at the front input shaft seal and decided it's definitely leaking... Plenty wet with oil. Hopefully I can pull that out from the front and drive in a new seal over the shaft?

Although I also got to thinking the only other seal that would be easier to get to now is the one between the hydraulic oil chamber and the rest of the transmission that keeps the fluids from mixing... I think I should probably pull a few more things apart and replace those while I'm this far, unfortunately.

Pulled the timing cover up front and found some broken gear teeth. Those are probably from when the original governor fell apart. The camshaft gear seems to have borne the brunt of it and the crank drive gear just has minor damage.

Should I be worried about that camshaft gear? The tractor sounded great when I tore it apart to fix the rear engine oil leak, but I'd hate for the rest of those two teeth to shear off at a random time in the future. I'm leaning towards finding a replacement unless the experienced folks on here have seen worse.

Those gears may work broken for a long time??? I am not a good judge of that. I guess if I was going to continue to try and use them I would buff all the broken edges smooth.

 My only story on this is that the engine block that is now in my WD45 was in a WD I bought years ago and had two pistons froze up. I got the pistons out and the engine would only turn 360 degrees then stop. I did not try to force it. Asked a bunch of old Allis experts to no avail. Finally took off the timing cover and found two gear teeth from the governor gear stuck in the cam gear! Moral of the story would be to ry and find the broken teeth in the bottom of the cover. 

Second story was on my Dads WD I took the timing cover off and found a old set of chewed up governor weights laying in the bottom of the cover. 

You never know what happened to these tractors in their lives!

Regards,

 Chris

This crusty ball bearing at the transmission output shaft is getting replaced. A couple of the balls are pitted and it might have been some of the noise I was hearing in the drivetrain that I mentioned early on.

Anything else I should be looking at while I'm in this far? I was not planning on getting into the transmission or differential unless the wise folks on here recommend checking for some specific things. All gears functioned.

I apparently forgot to drain the transmission when I drained all of the fluids. At least I noticed it before anything came out. Got the transmission output shaft knocked out so I can replace the ball bearing, and noticed that the roller bearing behind it was in sad shape as well. No numbers on it, but after some research it appears that a National J321640 should be the right size. The other shafts in the transmission spin nicely and the rear tapered roller bearing looks good, so they must have been low enough and submerged in oil while this thing sat and got rusty. I've never been anywhere near this far into a WD so it's still fun.

The inside of the output shaft (where the outside of the roller bearing rides) is ugly, but not severely pitted. I'm comfortable polishing up the shaft in the trans (where the inside of the roller bearing rides) but I don't know about the output shaft. I personally wouldn't put it back in a car if I were rebuilding the trans... However I'm guessing I can't go buy a new shaft for my WD for $100.

Do I clean it up as much as I can and reuse it?

I had to take a sledge hammer and a block of wood to the engine clutch shaft in order to drive it out. It didn't want to move. All of the seals (engine clutch shaft, PTO, etc.) popped out yesterday with a little effort. The ones between the hydraulic and transmission compartments were about shot... Well, the rear one was completely shot, and the one on the hydraulic side was barely hanging on. I managed to over bend the snap ring on the PTO drive gear and it has funny measurements so I think I'll have to get that and a few other small odds and ends from my local AGCO dealer.

In the meantime I should be able to get all the bearings and seals I need, and work on the engine a little more. Hopefully the only question on the engine is the camshaft bushings but who knows what I'll run into.

AC calls for 0.002-0.004" bearing clearance and to replace if it exceeds 0.006". The manual also mentions "The 0.025" undersize bushings may be used if the shaft is worn 0.001-0.002"."

Since I'm looking at  0.005" or so of wear and the cam journals would need additional cleaning up, safe to say this one is done for? Wonder if it was run low on oil or a bunch of junk got in the system. It also looks like someone filed or ground on the rear journal, maybe to try to chamfer it slightly for installation? Maybe I never should've looked at the cam and not known what was in here, haha. The engine did run well.

Better go check the rest of the engine and make a list of what else I need to replace.

Thanks Chris. If you're able to mic the journals that would probably tell you everything.

No rush as who knows how many other parts I may need when this is all said and done! Main bearings visually look a little better and I'm trying to find my plastigage now.

I will bring it in from the vast warehouse and try to get some measurements on the old cam.

Regards,

 Chris

Your getting into it now! That needed taken apart. May want to consider getting a kit for it? By the time your done chasing parts the cost of the fresh kit will look pretty good.

I was very happy with the kit I got from Sandy Lake Imp.