| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
CTuckerNWIL 
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22823
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Posted: 24 Apr 2019 at 8:24am |
|
WD45 had the same diameter 4 inch piston as the WD. The difference was in the stroke of the crankshaft and the compression ratio with a shorter piston for the longer stroke.
Oversized pistons don't make a "45 kit" . You would have to change the crankshaft and the pistons. You could also put a 45 crank in with WD pistons, and have a BIG jump in compression, that might make it hard turning over.
|
|
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Apr 2019 at 9:03pm |
 bhaynes wrote:
Looks good! About how mine looked when I got mine from my grandfather. It is almost completely restored now and hopefully will be firing it up within the next week. The first time it has been started in almost 2 years!
Looks like it has been converted to a 12v alternator and a distributor? |
Yep, it's before the changeover to the distributor, so it would've originally had a magneto. I'm annoyed that someone hacked off that corner of the grille for the distributor but I see that all the time.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Apr 2019 at 9:15pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Yes the head is taller on a typical factory WD45 also. |
The only thing I would point out is that the tall head started sometime in '51 (engine serial number 289000) so there are plenty of WDs out there that had it from the factory.
I just picked up a WD field cultivator from a forum member last weekend as well. I'm hoping it'll be perfect for knocking out some spring weeds while ignoring a few rocks in my fields.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Apr 2019 at 10:04pm |
Yea that grill corner hack job is very typical! Seen and repaired some of those too. Good looking cultivator! I have never seen on like that. Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 25 May 2019 at 10:01pm |
Well, it's been sitting since it was dropped off and I finally have space in the shop. It fired right up.
I drained the engine oil, coolant, and gas. The gas tank has some sediment in it but I think it'll clean up okay. The air cleaner cup had purely water in it. I took the carb apart since it was leaking a little gas and it actually looked pretty good inside. The float seems to be okay but I could see some junk up in the needle seat, so hopefully that's all the problem was.
The oil leak at the rear of the engine was mostly coming down the inspection cover. Took that off and the flywheel appears to be a little oily. I had not too high hopes that only the pan gasket was leaking but I'm pretty sure that the rear main seal is the main issue. It was leaking slowly when not running, and leaked a drop every 20 seconds or so when running. I'm not sure if I'll pull the engine to do the rear main seal now or wait until winter. There's a leak up toward the front of the engine somewhere too but not nearly as bad.
Anyone know what this mystery wire could've been for (second photo)? It's just hanging off the governor shaft tube but looks like it was tied to something once upon a time.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 26 May 2019 at 6:39am |
wjohn, Typical oil leaks on these. I see the clips on the oil pan for the pan gasket end pieces. My guess on the wire was it hooked to a spring that attached to the carb lever? Looks like vertical governor lever has been tweeked to adjust the length between the end and the carb. Your doing good with it. Have fun with it! Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 May 2019 at 8:44pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
wjohn,Typical oil leaks on these. I see the clips on the oil pan for the pan gasket end pieces. My guess on the wire was it hooked to a spring that attached to the carb lever? Looks like vertical governor lever has been tweeked to adjust the length between the end and the carb. Your doing good with it. Have fun with it! Regards, Chris |
Good thought. I bet it's for a missing surge spring. I seem to recall Dad's WD had a spring hooked down to the engine block coolant drain petcock, and there's nothing of the sort on my tractor.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 May 2019 at 8:58pm |
The air cleaner didn't look so bad at first. I tried blowing compressed air through the top and wasn't getting much flow through it, and then I saw the mud dauber nest. There's a pile of other gunk up around that area where the intake tube of the air cleaner transitions into the space between the outer wall and the inner wall that holds the mesh. Not sure if that makes sense but on these air cleaners the air comes down between the walls and is then sucked up the middle through the mesh to the carb. Anyway, it's pretty tough to get to and it's nice and oily, so I finally figured out that I could shove a scrap piece of metal shipping banding in and work the crud loose.
I never have found a good tool for screwing/unscrewing the needle valve seats in carbs. This old reciprocating saw blade works okay but could be a little stiffer.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 May 2019 at 9:13pm |
wjohn, Your getting right into it! Awesome! Yes these air cleaners can have a bunch of gunk in them! Carb doesn't look to bad! Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8241
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 May 2019 at 8:07pm |
|
When 45 came out,it had 1/2in more stroke than WD.Same bore.Took matching pistons with the wrist pin moved 1/4in. Rods would interchange but WDs were shim adjust and 45s were precision.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Jul 2019 at 10:04am |
I put the carb and air cleaner back together last weekend. Now I'm draining fluids from the rear of the machine... The PTO/trans oil is pretty thin and definitely had water in it. I also got a quote on front tires and need to take those in to be replaced.
On a potentially scarier note - anyone know what this part is in my pics below? It was lodged inside the cavity in the drain plug for the PTO housing. It's small, round, and sort of mushroom-shaped, like the broken off end of a good-sized nail. Looks like it's been pushed between a set of gears at some point on its journey... The end of some kind of pin, maybe?
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 8:19pm |
Anyone have any thoughts on the mystery part?
I got the right rear wheel off today. All the eccentrics came loose without much effort, but the left side ones are all rusted/painted solid. I broke off the bolt for the spinout stop and figured I'll have to soak/torch the eccentrics on that wheel someday. The fluid in the RH final drive wasn't as nasty as I expected. It definitely needed to be changed, but didn't seem to have much water or lumpy stuff in it. I made a couple of gaskets and got that side put back together.
Then I moved on to the radiator/grille. Getting to those two larger bolts up under the frame was a pain until I found the perfect combination of extensions... And they still fought most of the way out. It also looks like the rusty thermostat housing was a problem waiting to happen, and there was no thermostat. All I'm seeing for replacement parts are the cast housings vs. this thin stamped steel housing that rusted through.
I spent a few minutes beating on the steering shaft pins and got nowhere, and called it a night. From looking at other threads it looks like I'll have to get the drill out.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
mhankins
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Feb 2019
Location: Arkansas
Points: 134
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 7:33am |
I got 2 front tires for my WD45 from tireseasy.com. Free shipping,and the price was less than one locally.
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 9:52am |
wjohn, Well I see your right into this tractor. What are your plans? My plans took a bad turn when I found my engine was not good. Your doing a good job. When I attack the eccentrics: I take the wheel assembly off lay it on the ground and take out the 8 bolts holding the eccentric brackets to the wheel. Then gently tap out the center wheel with a 10 lb sledge and several big grunts!  The I take each eccentric and bolt it to something very solid and heat and work it till free. Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Jul 2019 at 9:57pm |
mhankins wrote:
I got 2 front tires for my WD45 from tireseasy.com. Free shipping,and the price was less than one locally.
|
Thanks for the tip - I actually got a quote for a pair of 5.50-16s from my local tire shop that was only $25 more than the cheapest tires on that site, and that included mounting and disposal of the old ones. I'm hoping they stay in business for a long time.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Jul 2019 at 10:03pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
wjohn,Well I see your right into this tractor. What are your plans? My plans took a bad turn when I found my engine was not good. |
The main thing I want to do right now is replace the rear main seal that's leaking more than I'll accept. I've been studying your threads and Don's video! I'm almost to the end of your WD-45 thread, haha. I don't plan on doing anything cosmetic with this tractor anytime soon... I want it to not leak tons of fluid and be a solid worker for the next couple years.
Everything I've read here on the eccentrics says lots of heat and/or soaking. They should be a good excuse to finally get a torch. I already bought an engine hoist for pulling the motor and I've been wanting one of those for awhile.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jul 2019 at 6:33am |
wjohn, You have a good plan. Even after taking a lot of my tractor apart to fix things like oil leaks I still have a few that have not sealed. One is the left rear final drive. I saw some oil in the rim yesterday!:( I even had these axles machined smooth and bought undersized seals! Also the front crankshaft seal is weeping a little too. Reminds me of a old Harley, They tended to leak on the showroom floor!:) Having the right tools is safer and you will get the job done much eaiser. Looking forward to your progress! Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 Jul 2019 at 7:40pm |
Weeping I'm okay with on an old unrestored tractor like this one. Drip-drip-drip (like the rear main seal) not so much, but I'd be a little frustrated too if you had gone to all of that trouble and still had some weeping.
I finally got the front pin for the steering u-joint drilled out. That's quite the ordeal. I picked up a Harbor Freight air hammer for $13 because I figured "what the heck" at that price. It didn't have enough oomph to punch the pin out without a lot of drilling first, though. Once I drilled out enough it was really handy, though. Maybe I should've grabbed the slightly larger model and had better luck with that.
The u-joint is still stuck to the shaft after much turning and hammering, so I'm going to have to figure out how to drive it off of there. I may end up having to pull the frame rail.
Fingers crossed, the rest of the engine removal process looks more downhill after I get that out of the way.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 Jul 2019 at 8:02pm |
I think the original pins are slightly tapered. They can be a bugger. Almost everything I touched on mine had some issue that kept me in a headlock. It did not like being apart and is still adjusting to being back together. Parts are just starting to play nice! Taking the frame rail off will help with a lot of issues. Steering and engine removal and installation too. Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22823
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Jul 2019 at 9:17am |
|
I don't believe those pins are tapered. What I believe they did, was chamfer both sides of the U joint, and peen the pin to swell out into that chamfer. Basically making a rivet with a small head on each end. They can be a real bugger to get out.
|
|
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Jul 2019 at 5:31pm |
CTucker, Your probably more correct. They were supposed to last the life of the tractor which was to be about 20 years, not 3 times that!:) Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Sep 2019 at 9:44pm |
Small milestone: the steering shaft u joint is completely out. I removed the frame rail and the rear u-joint pin came out after some solid smacks. It's really helpful to be able to block it against the engine block so that you're transferring the entire force of the hammer blow solidly into it, instead of into all the slop of the shaft and supports.
The support around the clutch is totally egged out. It's bad enough I'm not sure if I can oversize it and put a bushing in, but we'll see. The shaft also needs material added in several spots. I may leave that for a project in the distant future. For now I think I'm just going to rebuild the u-joint since I have it out and it clearly has no lube and lots of play. Hopefully now that I've knocked the pins loose once they'll come out easier the next time.
Now onto the pin in the hand crank shaft. I know they're Sugarmaker's absolute favorite, and mine sure didn't want to budge at the end of the day today. I called it a night and made supper.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Sep 2019 at 7:42am |
wjohn, I like your documentation: pictures and descriptions! Yes getting something soild under any of these pinned joints is the key to knocking them out. The steering u-joint may be the toughest. taking the frame rail off seems like a pain, but will save you much frustration putting that joint back together. And you now have all those bolts loose in case you need to do this again. Add never seize to the bolt threads. On that crank pin it is way easier to work on them with the front grill off, which you have done. I like a floor jack between the back of the tires and a piece of solid steel coming up from the jack to support the shaft. Then you can get a real solid whack on the stubborn cross pins. After changing them 3 or 4 times, like I tend to do the come right out!
Are you pulling the engine to do the rear seal? Don and I will tell you thats really the best way to fix that leak. Pulling the engine probably not much more work than the u joint rebuild.
By the way I had problems finding the new u joint (cross and bearing for these. Maybe they are more available now???
Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
IBWD MIke
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Newton Ia.
Points: 3733
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Sep 2019 at 8:55am |
Great idea pulling the frame rail! Wish I would have thought of that when I did the one on my narrow front. Getting ready to put (Char-Lynn) power steering on the wide front, will pull the rail.
The joint I used in mine came from Napa, box has 861 on it as part no. Here's a qualifier; I had to do some filing on the yokes to get the clips in if I remember correctly.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Sep 2019 at 9:06am |
The parts book shows a cotter pin in the hole on the hand crank that I'm stuck on, but it definitely has a very rusty pin driven in it. I don't see any reason for it to be a solid pin (it's the one that sits against the back of the front pedestal casting when the hand crank is not being used and is pushed forward by the spring) so I'm planning on replacing it with a cotter pin if/when I get it knocked out. I'm worried that I'll have to take the front wheels off if I need to get access to drill it out.
I am pulling the engine entirely just for the rear main seal. I'll take a look at the clutch and some other things while I'm in there, of course, but hopefully it just needs that seal and the oil pan gasket set.
I did some searching on the forum and found NAPA part number NPJ P861 but I haven't checked measurements on it to make sure that's good info.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Sep 2019 at 12:54pm |
wjohn, That does sound like the right part from NAPA. Like Mike, I think I had to clean up some areas on the yokes to get the bearing caps retained properly. While you have it apart might as well do the seals in the torque tube, rebuild the hand clutch, and paint it! Just sayin! Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Sep 2019 at 1:28pm |
Thanks for the confirmation on the part number, guys. Good to know about the clips. Chris, the hand clutch feels good but it might not be a bad idea for me to take a peek at it. Paint is definitely out of the question at this time. I don't have the time or the setup to do it for now.
I just got the pin in the hand crank shaft out. I realized I had a 2.5' piece of 1 1/4" round stock in my shop that was there when I moved in, so I tried to figure out how to hold it and hit the end of it... Then realized it was heavy enough I could probably just use it like a battering ram, and sure enough the pin started moving.
I think I'm ready to pull the engine off now. I don't have a stand so I'm either going to get creative or buy a cheap stand next week, haha. That sure would make doing the oil pan gasket job a lot easier as others have mentioned, so I may bite the bullet and buy one.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Sep 2019 at 8:31pm |
Success! Not a big deal to many of you veterans, but I'd never had to pull and engine out of an AC before. I think I'll have to remove the front wheels to get it back in because my hoist was up against the tires and wanted to pull the engine a good 5" forward to hang dead center the way I had it hooked up.
I found a cracked rocker shaft pedestal so I'll need to source a used one somewhere. I'd rather not rob parts off my other tractors yet since I still think they all have hope. The front crank seal wasn't seated all the way, so the only thing I can think of is either it wasn't installed properly or someone was trying to keep it out of a well worn groove in the crankshaft. Disassembly will tell all.
The clutch still has some life left. At least, there's a ways to go before it's hitting rivets. I'll check to see if there's a minimum thickness spec, but unless it's close to the bottom range of that then I'll plan on reusing it. Interestingly the pilot bearing had fallen out (I can only assume it tried to stay with the transmission input shaft during engine removal) and was missing the seal on one side of the bearing, so it didn't have long for the world. There was no lubricant left and it makes a nice loud rattle. Unfortunately I wasn't thinking and the "good" side of the bearing is showing in the pic with the clutch.
That flywheel is a suprisingly heavy chunk of metal, too. Who would've thunk?
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8287
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Sep 2019 at 7:52am |
wjohn, I believe I shortened one leg of the base of the engine hoist by the wheels and came in from the side of the tractor rather than the front. While your at Harbor freight getting the low cost engine stand, splurge and get the engine leveling unit too. You will thank me for both when your done! Your doing good! That front seal does look like its out more than normal? You will have that cover off so you can put in a new seal and check the crank grooves. I put a speedi sleeve and new seal and still have oil weeping a little. Geting the cover centered on the shaft is important.
Just poking you on the paint thing! It takes a lot of time for that process.
I bet someone on here has the good used pedestal that you need. Cant remember but I believe they are different from a WD to a 45?
Keep hittin at it! Thanks for the pictures and the updates.
Off to haul tractors to the local fair. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 09 Sep 2019 at 7:59am
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1992
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Sep 2019 at 9:41pm |
Are you talking about the same leveler I have hanging from the hoist in my last post? If so, yes, I wouldn't want to be without that. I was thinking if I had a different angle for one of the legs of the hoist I would've been able to slide in from the side, but shortening would be an option too. I'd prefer to not permanently alter the frame if possible. I was also wondering if I rotated the front wheels one way or another if that would let me sneak in as well... I may have to jack it up and play around with that just to see.
I haven't looked at the parts book yet but I'm assuming the pedestal differs between short and tall heads. Centering the timing cover might be interesting but I think I can wrap up a piece of PVC pipe to the right thickness as I've seen somewhere on here before! Your seeping front crank seal is a bummer for sure. Odd that it happened with the speedi sleeve and everything, too.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
